TheChurch of St Mary Major, formerlyExeter Minster, was a historicchurchandparishin theCity of Exeter, Devon, dating from the 7th century. It pre-dated the firstExeter Cathedralby some five centuries, was rebuilt several times, but was finally demolished in 1971. It was situated to the immediate south-west of Exeter Cathedral, the site today being a grass lawn.[1]
History
The earliest known form of a building on the site was a Roman bath-house, built 60–65 AD. In the 7th century the Saxons built on the site of the bath-house a monastery or minster.[1]Saint Boniface(c. 675–754), supposed to have been born in Crediton, Devon, was educated at Exeter Minster in 680, when the monastery ofEscancastre,[2]orExamchester[3]was under the rule of Abbot Wulfhard. It was refoundedcirca930 by the Anglo-Saxon KingÆthelstanbut was burnt down by Viking raiders in 1003. It was rebuilt by KingCanutein 1018. In 1050 theSee of Creditonmoved its seat to Exeter Minster, by licence of KingEdward the Confessor, which was the founding of theSee of Exeter. After theNorman Conquestof 1066, in 1114 BishopWilliam Warelwastcommenced the building of a newcathedralto house theSee of Exeter, on the site of the presentExeter Cathedral, to the immediate north-east of Exeter Minster. The new cathedral was completedcirca1220, whereupon the minster was vacated by the bishop, and was converted to a parish church dedicated toSaint Mary. The "Major"suffixappears to indicate a church of special status, as in theBasilica di Santa Maria MaggioreinRome. It was demolished in 1865 in order to build a larger church to house the expanded population of the city, which new building was consecrated in 1867. It escaped the bombing inWorld War IIwhich so much of the city suffered, but was finally demolished in 1971, being by then little attended by parishioners. Following the demolition several Saxon graves were discovered on the site, together with the foundations of the Roman bath-house and Saxon Minster. The site is now a level grass lawn.[1]
"Boniface" redirects here. For other uses, seeBoniface (disambiguation).
For other uses, seeSaint Boniface (disambiguation).
Boniface
Saint Bonifaceby Cornelis Bloemaert,c.1630Bishop
Martyr
Apostle to the Germans
Bornc.675[1]
Crediton,DumnoniaDied5 June 754 (aged around 79)
nearDokkum,FrisiaVeneratedinCatholic Church
Lutheranism
Eastern Orthodox Church[2]
Anglican CommunionMajorshrineFulda Cathedral
St Boniface Catholic Church,Crediton, EnglandFeast5 JuneAttributesIn bishop's robes, book pierced by a sword (also axe; oak; scourge)PatronageFulda;Germania; England (Orthodox Church; jointly with Ss. Augustine of Canterbury, and Cuthbert of Lindisfarne. The Orthodox Church also recognises him as patron Saint of Germany);Devon;Winnipeg
Boniface(bornWynfreth;c.675[3]– 5 June 754) was an EnglishBenedictinemonk and leading figure in theAnglo-Saxon missionto the Germanic parts ofFranciaduring the eighth century. He organised significant foundations of thechurch in Germanyand was madeArchbishop of MainzbyPope Gregory III. He wasmartyredinFrisiain 754, along with 52 others, and his remains were returned toFulda, where they rest in asarcophaguswhich remains a site ofChristian pilgrimage.
Boniface's life and death as well as his work became widely known, there being a wealth of material available– a number ofvitae, especially the near-contemporaryVita Bonifatii auctore Willibaldi, legal documents, possibly some sermons, and above all his correspondence. He is venerated as asaintin the Christian church and became thepatron saintofGermania, known as the "Apostle to the Germans".
Norman Cantornotes the three roles Boniface played that made him "one of the truly outstanding creators of the first Europe, as the apostle of Germania, the reformer of theFrankish Church, and the chief fomentor of the alliance between thepapacyand theCarolingian family."[4]Through his efforts to reorganize and regulate the church of the Franks, he helped shape theLatin Churchin Europe, and many of the dioceses he proposed remain today. After his martyrdom, he was quickly hailed as a saint in Fulda and other areas in Germania and in England. He is still venerated strongly today by Catholics in Germany and throughout theGerman diaspora. Boniface is celebrated as a missionary; he is regarded as a unifier of Europe, and he is regarded by German Roman Catholics as a national figure.[5]
In 2019Devon County Council, with the support of the AnglicanDiocese of Exeter, theRoman Catholic Diocese of Plymouth, and local Devon leaders of the Orthodox, Methodist, and Congregational churches, officially recognised St Boniface as the Patron Saint ofDevon.[6][7][8]
Early life
Prayer card, early 20th century, depicting Boniface leaving England
The earliest Bonifacianvitadoes not indicate his place of birth but says that at an early age he attended a monastery ruled by Abbot Wulfhard inescancastre,[9]orExamchester,[10]which seems to denoteExeter, and may have been one of manymonasteriolabuilt by local landowners and churchmen; nothing else is known of it outside the Bonifacianvitae.[11]This monastery is believed to have occupied the site of theChurch of St Mary Majorin theCity of Exeter, demolished in 1971, next to which was later builtExeter Cathedral.[12]Later tradition places his birth atCrediton, but the earliest mention of Crediton in connection to Boniface is from the early fourteenth century,[13]inJohn Grandisson'sLegenda Sanctorum: The Proper Lessons for Saints' Days according to the use of Exeter.[14]In one of his letters Boniface mentions he was "born and reared...[in] the synod of London",[15]but he may have been speaking metaphorically.[16]His English name is recorded as being Winfrid or Winfred.[17]
According to thevitae, Winfrid was of a respected and prosperous family. Against his father's wishes he devoted himself at an early age to the monastic life. He received further theological training in theBenedictinemonastery andminsterofNhutscelle (Nursling),[18]not far fromWinchester, which under the direction of abbot Winbert had grown into an industrious centre of learning in the tradition ofAldhelm.[19]Winfrid taught in the abbey school and at the age of 30 became a priest; in this time, he wrote a Latin grammar, theArs Grammatica, besides a treatise on verse and someAldhelm-inspired riddles.[20]While little is known about Nursling outside Boniface'svitae, it seems clear that the library there was significant. To supply Boniface with the materials he needed, it would have contained works byDonatus,Priscian,Isidore, and many others.[21]Around 716, when his abbot Wynberth of Nursling died, he was invited (or expected) to assume his position—it is possible that they were related, and the practice of hereditary right among the early Anglo-Saxons would affirm this.[22]Winfrid, however, declined the position and in 716 set out on amissionary expeditiontoFrisia.
Early missionary work in Frisia and Germania
Saint Boniface fellingDonar's Oak
Boniface first left for the continent in 716. He traveled toUtrecht, whereWillibrord, the "Apostle to the Frisians", had been working since the 690s. He spent a year with Willibrord, preaching in the countryside, but their efforts were frustrated by the war then being carried on betweenCharles MartelandRadbod, King of the Frisians. Willibrord fled to the abbey he had founded inEchternach(in modern-dayLuxembourg) while Boniface returned to Nursling.
Boniface returned to the continent the next year and went straight to Rome, wherePope Gregory IIrenamed him "Boniface", after the (legendary) fourth-century martyrBoniface of Tarsus, and appointed him missionary bishop forGermania—he became a bishop without a diocese for an area that lacked any church organization. He would never return to England, though he remained in correspondence with his countrymen and kinfolk throughout his life.
Saint Boniface of Mainz byAlbrecht De Vriendt
According to thevitaeBoniface felled theDonar Oak, Latinized by Willibald as "Jupiter's oak", near the present-day town ofFritzlarin northernHesse. According to his early biographer Willibald, Boniface started to chop the oak down, when suddenly a great wind, by miracle, blew the ancient oak over. When the gods did not strike him down, the people were amazed and converted to Christianity. He built a church from its wood at the site[23]—the church was the beginning of the monastery in Fritzlar. This account from thevitais stylised to portray Boniface as a singular character who alone acts to root out paganism. Lutz von Padberg and others claim that what thevitaeleave out is that the action was most likely well-prepared and widely publicized in advance for maximum effect, and that Boniface had little reason to fear for his personal safety since the Frankish fortified settlement ofBüraburgwas nearby.[24]According to Willibald, Boniface later had a church with an attached monastery built in Fritzlar,[25]on the site of the previously built chapel, according to tradition.[26]
Boniface and the Carolingians
Fulda Sacramentary, Saint Boniface baptising (top) and being martyred (bottom)
The support of theFrankishmayors of the palace, and later the earlyPippinidsand the Carolingian dynasty, was essential for Boniface's work. Boniface had been under the protection ofCharles Martelfrom 723 onwards.[27]The Christian Frankish leaders desired to defeat their rival power, the pagan Saxons, and to incorporate the Saxon lands into their own growing empire. Boniface's campaign of destruction ofindigenous Germanic pagansites may have benefited the Franks in their campaign against the Saxons.
In 732, Boniface traveled again to Rome to report, andPope Gregory IIIconferred upon him thepalliumas archbishop with jurisdiction over what is now Germany. Boniface again set out for the German lands and continued his mission, but also used his authority to work on the relations between the papacy and the Frankish church. Rome wanted more control over that church, which it felt was much too independent and which, in the eyes of Boniface, was subject to worldly corruption.Charles Martel, after having defeated the forces of theUmayyad Caliphateduring theBattle of Tours(732), had rewarded many churches and monasteries with lands, but typically his supporters who held church offices were allowed to benefit from those possessions. Boniface would have to wait until the 740s before he could try to address this situation, in which Frankish church officials were essentiallysinecures, and the church itself paid little heed to Rome. During his third visit to Rome in 737–38, he was madepapal legatefor Germany.[28]
After Boniface's third trip to Rome, Charles Martel established four dioceses in Bavaria (Salzburg,Regensburg,Freising, andPassau) and gave them to Boniface asarchbishopandmetropolitanover all Germany east of the Rhine. In 745, he was granted Mainz as metropolitan see.[29]In 742, one of his disciples,Sturm(also known as Sturmi, or Sturmius), founded theabbey of Fuldanot far from Boniface's earlier missionary outpost at Fritzlar. Although Sturm was the founding abbot of Fulda, Boniface was very involved in the foundation. The initial grant for the abbey was signed byCarloman, the son ofCharles Martel, and a supporter of Boniface's reform efforts in the Frankish church. Boniface himself explained to his old friend, Daniel of Winchester, that without the protection of Charles Martel he could "neither administer his church, defend his clergy, nor prevent idolatry".
According to German historian Gunther Wolf, the high point of Boniface's career was theConcilium Germanicum, organized by Carloman in an unknown location in April 743. Although Boniface was not able to safeguard the church from property seizures by the local nobility, he did achieve one goal, the adoption of stricter guidelines for the Frankish clergy,[30]who often hailed directly from the nobility. After Carloman's resignation in 747 he maintained a sometimes turbulent relationship with the king of the Franks,Pepin the Short; the claim that he would have crowned Pepin atSoissonsin 751 is now generally discredited.[31]
Boniface balanced this support and attempted to maintain some independence, however, by attaining the support of the papacy and of theAgilolfingsofBavaria. In Frankish, Hessian, and Thuringian territory, he established the diocese ofWürzburg(741).[32]By appointing his own followers as bishops, he was able to retain some independence from the Carolingians, who most likely were content to give him leeway as long as Christianity was imposed on the Saxons and other Germanic tribes.
Last mission to Frisia
Saint Boniface crypt, FuldaExcerpt from theRagyndrudis Codex. It bears parallel nail holes on the margins of each page.
According to thevitae, Boniface had never relinquished his hope of converting theFrisians, and in 754 he set out with a retinue for Frisia. He baptized a great number and summoned a general meeting for confirmation at a place not far fromDokkum, betweenFranekerandGroningen. However, instead of his converts, a group of armed robbers appeared and slew the aged archbishop. Thevitaemention that Boniface persuaded his (armed) comrades to lay down their arms: "Cease fighting. Lay down your arms, for we are told in Scripture not to render evil for evil but to overcome evil by good."[33]
Having killed Boniface and his company, the Frisian bandits ransacked their possessions but found that the company's luggage did not contain the riches they had hoped for: "they broke open the chests containing the books and found, to their dismay, that they held manuscripts instead of gold vessels, pages of sacred texts instead of silver plates."[34]They attempted to destroy these books, the earliestvitaalready says, and this account underlies the status of theRagyndrudis Codex, now held as a Bonifacian relic in Fulda, and supposedly one of three books found on the field by the Christians who inspected it afterward. Of those three books, the Ragyndrudis Codex shows incisions that could have been made by sword or axe; its story appears confirmed in the Utrecht hagiography, theVita altera, which reports that an eye-witness saw that the saint at the moment of death held up agospelas spiritual protection.[35]The story was later repeated by Otloh'svita; at that time, the Ragyndrudis Codex seems to have been firmly connected to the martyrdom.[citation needed]
Boniface's remains were moved from the Frisian countryside to Utrecht, and then to Mainz, where sources contradict each other regarding the behavior ofLullus, Boniface's successor as archbishop of Mainz. According to Willibald'svitaLullus allowed the body to be moved to Fulda, while in the (later)Vita Sturmi, a hagiography of Sturm byEigil of Fulda, Lullus attempted to block the move and keep the body in Mainz.[36]
His remains were eventually buried in the abbey church of Fulda after resting for some time inUtrecht, and they are entombed within a shrine beneath the high altar ofFulda Cathedral, previously the abbey church. There is good reason to believe that the Gospel he held up was theCodex Sangallensis56, which shows damage to the upper margin, which has been cut back as a form of repair.[citation needed]
Veneration
Fulda
Statue of St. Boniface by Johann Kaspar Hiernle (1750) at Mainz Cathedral
Veneration of Boniface in Fulda began immediately after his death; his grave was equipped with a decorative tomb around ten years after his burial, and the grave and relics became the center of the abbey. Fulda monks prayed for newly elected abbots at the grave site before greeting them, and every Monday the saint was remembered in prayer, the monks prostrating themselves and recitingPsalm 50. After the abbey church was rebuilt to become theRatgar Basilica(dedicated 791), Boniface's remains weretranslatedto a new grave: since the church had been enlarged, his grave, originally in the west, was now in the middle; his relics were moved to a newapsein 819. From then on Boniface, aspatronof the abbey, was regarded as both spiritual intercessor for the monks and legal owner of the abbey and its possessions, and all donations to the abbey were done in his name. He was honored on the date of his martyrdom, 5 June (with a mass written byAlcuin), and (around the year 1000) with a mass dedicated to his appointment as bishop, on 1 December.[37]
Dokkum
Willibald'svitadescribes how a visitor on horseback came to the site of the martyrdom, and a hoof of his horse got stuck in the mire. When it was pulled loose, a well sprang up. By the time of theVita altera Bonifatii(9th century), there was a church on the site, and the well had become a "fountain of sweet water" used to sanctify people. TheVita Liudgeri, a hagiographical account of the work ofLudger, describes how Ludger himself had built the church, sharing duties with two other priests. According to James Palmer, the well was of great importance since the saint's body was hundreds of miles away; the physicality of the well allowed for an ongoing connection with the saint. In addition, Boniface signified Dokkum's and Frisia's "connect[ion] to the rest of (Frankish) Christendom".[38]
Memorials
Saint Boniface'sfeast dayis celebrated on 5 June in the RomanCatholic Church, theLutheran Church, theAnglican Communionand theEastern Orthodox Church.
A famous statue of Saint Boniface stands on the grounds ofMainz Cathedral, seat of thearchbishop of Mainz. A more modern rendition stands facing St. Peter's Church of Fritzlar.
Saint Boniface memorial inFritzlar, Germany
The UK National Shrine is located at the Catholic church atCrediton, Devon, which has abas-reliefof the felling of Thor's Oak, by sculptor Kenneth Carter. The sculpture was unveiled byPrincess Margaretin his nativeCrediton, located in Newcombes Meadow Park. There is also a series of paintings there by Timothy Moore. There are quite a few churches dedicated to St. Boniface in the United Kingdom:Bunbury, Cheshire;Chandler's FordandSouthamptonHampshire; Adler Street, London;Papa Westray, Orkney;St Budeaux, Plymouth (now demolished);Bonchurch, Isle of Wight;Cullompton, Devon.
St Boniface Down, thehighest pointin theIsle of Wight, is named after him.[39]
BishopGeorge ErringtonfoundedSt Boniface's Catholic College, Plymouth in 1856. The school celebrates Saint Boniface on 5 June each year.
In 1818, FatherNorbert Provencherfounded a mission on the east bank of theRed Riverin what was thenRupert's Land, building a log church and naming it after St. Boniface. The log church was consecrated asSaint Boniface Cathedralafter Provencher was himself consecrated as a bishop and thediocesewas formed. The community that grew around the cathedral eventually became the city ofSaint Boniface, which merged into the city ofWinnipegin 1971. In 1844, fourGrey Nunsarrived by canoe in Manitoba, and in 1871, built Western Canada's first hospital:St. Boniface Hospital, where the Assiniboine and Red Rivers meet. Today, St. Boniface is regarded as Winnipeg's main French-speaking district and the centre of theFranco-Manitobaincommunity, and St. Boniface Hospital is the second-largest hospital in Manitoba.
Boniface (Wynfrith) ofCreditonisrememberedin theChurch of Englandwith aLesser Festivalon5 June.[40]
Legends
Saint Boniface statue inFulda, Germany
Some traditions credit Saint Boniface with the invention of theChristmas tree. It is mentioned on aBBC-Devon website, in an account which placesGeismarinBavaria,[41]and in a number of educational books, includingSt. Boniface and the Little Fir Tree,[42]The Brightest Star of All: Christmas Stories for the Family,[43]The American normal readers,[44]and a short story byHenry van Dyke, "The First Christmas Tree".[45]
Sources and writings
Vitae
The earliest "Life" of Boniface was written by a certain Willibald, an Anglo-Saxon priest who came toMainzafter Boniface's death,[46]around 765. Willibald's biography was widely dispersed; Levison lists some forty manuscripts.[47]According to his lemma, a group of four manuscripts includingCodex Monacensis1086 are copies directly from the original.[48]
Listed second in Levison's edition is the entry from a late ninth-century Fulda document: Boniface's status as a martyr is attested by his inclusion in theFulda Martyrologywhich also lists, for instance, the date (1 November) of histranslationin 819, when theFulda Cathedralhad been rebuilt.[49]AVita Bonifaciiwas written in Fulda in the ninth century, possibly byCandidus of Fulda, but is now lost.[50]
The nextvita, chronologically, is theVita altera Bonifatii auctore Radbodo, which originates in theBishopric of Utrecht, and was probably revised byRadboud of Utrecht(899–917). Mainly agreeing with Willibald, it adds an eye-witness who presumably saw the martyrdom at Dokkum. TheVita tertia Bonifatiilikewise originates in Utrecht. It is dated between 917 (Radboud's death) and 1075, the yearAdam of Bremenwrote hisGesta Hammaburgensis ecclesiae pontificum, which used theVita tertia.[51][52]
A latervita, written byOtloh of St. Emmeram(1062–1066), is based on Willibald's and a number of othervitaeas well as the correspondence, and also includes information from local traditions.
Correspondence
Boniface engaged in regular correspondence with fellow churchmen all over Western Europe, including the three popes he worked with, and with some of his kinsmen back in England. Many of these letters contain questions about church reform and liturgical or doctrinal matters. In most cases, what remains is one half of the conversation, either the question or the answer. The correspondence as a whole gives evidence of Boniface's widespread connections; some of the letters also prove an intimate relationship especially with female correspondents.[53]
There are 150 letters in what is generally called the Bonifatian correspondence, though not all them are by Boniface or addressed to him. They were assembled by order of archbishopLullus, Boniface's successor in Mainz, and were initially organized into two parts, a section containing the papal correspondence and another with his private letters. They were reorganized in the eighth century, in a roughly chronological ordering. Otloh of St. Emmeram, who worked on a newvitaof Boniface in the eleventh century, is credited with compiling the complete correspondence as we have it.[53]Much of this correspondence comprises the first part of theVienna Boniface Codex, also known asCodex Vindobonensis 751.
The correspondence was edited and published already in the seventeenth century, by Nicolaus Serarius.[54]Stephan Alexander Würdtwein's 1789 edition,Epistolae S. Bonifacii Archiepiscopi Magontini, was the basis for a number of (partial) translations in the nineteenth century. The first version to be published byMonumenta Germaniae Historica(MGH) was the edition by Ernst Dümmler (1892); the most authoritative version until today is Michael Tangl's 1912Die Briefe des Heiligen Bonifatius, Nach der Ausgabe in den Monumenta Germaniae Historica, published by MGH in 1916.[53]This edition is the basis ofEphraim Emerton's selection and translation in English,The Letters of Saint Boniface, first published in New York in 1940; it was republished most recently with a new introduction by Thomas F.X. Noble in 2000.
Included among his letters and dated to 716 is one to AbbessEdburga of Minster-in-Thanetcontaining theVision of the Monk ofWenlock.[55]This otherworld vision describes how a violently ill monk is freed from his body and guided by angels to a place of judgment, where angels and devils fight over his soul as his sins and virtues come alive to accuse and defend him. He sees a hell of purgation full of pits vomiting flames. There is a bridge over a pitch-black boiling river. Souls either fall from it or safely reach the other side cleansed of their sins. This monk even sees some of his contemporary monks and is told to warn them to repent before they die. This vision bears signs of influence by theApocalypse of Paul, the visions from theDialoguesofGregory the Great, and the visions recorded byBede.[56]
Sermons
Main article:Sermones (Pseudo)-Bonifatii
Some fifteen preserved sermons are traditionally associated with Boniface, but that they were actually his is not generally accepted.
Grammar and poetry
Early in his career, before he left for the continent, Boniface wrote theArs Bonifacii, a grammatical treatise presumably for his students in Nursling.Helmut Gneussreports that one manuscript copy of the treatise originates from (the south of) England, mid-eighth century; it is now held inMarburg, in theHessisches Staatsarchiv.[57]He also wrote a treatise on verse, theCaesurae uersuum, and a collection of twenty acrosticriddles, theEnigmata, influenced greatly byAldhelmand containing many references to works ofVergil(theAeneid, theGeorgics, and theEclogues).[58]The riddles fall into two sequences of ten poems. The first,De virtutibus('on the virtues'), comprises: 1.de ueritate/truth; 2.de fide catholica/the Catholic faith; 3.de spe/hope; 4.de misericordia/compassion; 5.de caritate/love; 6.de iustitia/justice; 7.de patientia/patience; 8.de pace uera, cristiana/true, Christian peace; 9.de humilitate cristiania/Christian humility; 10.de uirginitate/virginity. The second sequence,De vitiis('on the vices'), comprises: 1.de neglegentia/carelessness; 2.de iracundia/hot temper; 3.de cupiditate/greed; 4.de superbia/pride; 5.de crapula/intemperance; 6.de ebrietate/drunkenness; 7.de luxoria/fornication; 8.de inuidia/envy; 9.de ignorantia/ignorance; 10.de uana gloria/vainglory.[59]
Three octosyllabic poems written in clearlyAldhelmianfashion (according toAndy Orchard) are preserved in his correspondence, all composed before he left for the continent.[60]
Additional materials
A letter by Boniface chargingAldebertand Clement with heresy is preserved in the records of the Roman Council of 745 that condemned the two.[61]Boniface had an interest in the Irish canon law collection known asCollectio canonum Hibernensis, and a late eighth/early ninth-century manuscript inWürzburgcontains, besides a selection from theHibernensis, a list of rubrics that mention the heresies of Clemens and Aldebert. The relevant folios containing these rubrics were most likely copied in Mainz, Würzburg, or Fulda—all places associated with Boniface.[61]Michael Glatthaarsuggested that the rubrics should be seen as Boniface's contribution to the agenda for a synod.[62]
Anniversary and other celebrations
Boniface's death (and birth) has given rise to a number of noteworthy celebrations. The dates for some of these celebrations have undergone some changes: in 1805, 1855, and 1905 (and in England in 1955) anniversaries were calculated with Boniface's death dated in 755, according to the "Mainz tradition"; in Mainz,Michael Tangl's dating of the martyrdom in 754 was not accepted until after 1955. Celebrations in Germany centered on Fulda and Mainz, in the Netherlands on Dokkum and Utrecht, and in England on Crediton and Exeter.
Celebrations in Germany: 1805, 1855, 1905
Medal minted for the Boniface anniversary in Fulda, 1905
The first German celebration on a fairly large scale was held in 1805 (the 1,050th anniversary of his death), followed by a similar celebration in a number of towns in 1855; both of these were predominantly Catholic affairs emphasizing the role of Boniface in German history. But if the celebrations were mostly Catholic, in the first part of the 19th century the respect for Boniface in general was an ecumenical affair, with both Protestants and Catholics praising Boniface as a founder of the German nation, in response to the German nationalism that arose after the Napoleonic era came to an end. The second part of the 19th century saw increased tension between Catholics and Protestants; for the latter,Martin Lutherhad become the model German, the founder of the modern nation, and he and Boniface were in direct competition for the honor.[63]In 1905, when strife between Catholic and Protestant factions had eased (one Protestant church published a celebratory pamphlet, Gerhard Ficker'sBonifatius, der "Apostel der Deutschen"), there were modest celebrations and a publication for the occasion on historical aspects of Boniface and his work, the 1905Festgabeby Gregor Richter and Carl Scherer. In all, the content of these early celebrations showed evidence of the continuing question about the meaning of Boniface for Germany, though the importance of Boniface in cities associated with him was without question.[64]
1954 celebrations
In 1954, celebrations were widespread in England, Germany, and the Netherlands, and a number of these celebrations were international affairs. Especially in Germany, these celebrations had a distinctly political note to them and often stressed Boniface as a kind of founder of Europe, such as whenKonrad Adenauer, the (Catholic) German chancellor, addressed a crowd of 60,000 in Fulda, celebrating the feast day of the saint in a European context:Das, was wir in Europa gemeinsam haben, [ist] gemeinsamen Ursprungs("What we have in common in Europe comes from the same source").[65]
1980 papal visit
WhenPope John Paul IIvisited Germanyin November 1980, he spent two days in Fulda (17 and 18 November). He celebrated Mass in Fulda Cathedral with 30,000 gathered on the square in front of the building, and met with theGerman Bishops' Conference(held in Fulda since 1867). The pope next celebrated mass outside the cathedral, in front of an estimated crowd of 100,000, and hailed the importance of Boniface for German Christianity:Der heilige Bonifatius, Bischof und Märtyrer, 'bedeutet' den 'Anfang' des Evangeliums und der Kirche in Eurem Land("The holy Boniface, bishop and martyr, 'signifies' the beginning of the gospel and the church in your country").[66]A photograph of the pope praying at Boniface's grave became the centerpiece of a prayer card distributed from the cathedral.
2004 celebrations
In 2004, anniversary celebrations were held throughout Northwestern Germany and Utrecht, and Fulda and Mainz—generating a great amount of academic and popular interest. The event occasioned a number of scholarly studies, esp. biographies (for instance, by Auke Jelsma in Dutch, Lutz von Padberg in German, and Klaas Bruinsma in Frisian), and a fictional completion of the Boniface correspondence (Lutterbach,Mit Axt und Evangelium).[67]A German musical proved a great commercial success,[68]and in the Netherlands an opera was staged.[69]
Scholarship on Boniface
There is an extensive body of literature on the saint and his work. At the time of the various anniversaries, edited collections were published containing essays by some of the best-known scholars of the time, such as the 1954 collectionSankt Bonifatius: Gedenkgabe zum Zwölfhundertsten Todestag[70]and the 2004 collectionBonifatius — Vom Angelsächsischen Missionar zum Apostel der Deutschen.[71]In the modern era,Lutz von Padbergpublished a number of biographies and articles on the saint focusing on his missionary praxis and his relics. The most authoritative biography remainsTheodor Schieffer'sWinfrid-Bonifatius und die Christliche Grundlegung Europas(1954).[72][73]







Click on an image to enlarge
Sherford Church of St Martin, a 14th century beauty in South Devon
Listed building grade 1
Regularly open
Postcode & directions: TQ7 2AU
Nave
Chancel
North and south aisles with chapels
South porch
West tower
C14 origin
C15 porch and fittings
Restored late C19 or early C20
Sherford Church of St Martin and ancient history
A beautifully compact church built from the local slate stone
Back in 1057 Gytha, the mother of the King Harold who came to a sticky end at the Battle of Hastings, owned the estate of Sherford; she gave it to her new church in Exeter, St Olave’s, with a nice bouncy curse involved:
…If anyone tries to enrich on it or take it away from the church itself, may God remove him from the land of the living and along with Judas the Betrayer may he bequeath infernal punishments from one generation to the next. Amen.
Presumably this did not apply to Billy the Conqueror who swiped the whole country from her son nine years later, giving St Olave’s and all its possessions to his new Battle Abbey, built to commemorate his victory at Hastings.
There was probably a chapel, at least, here in Gytha’s time, this being a very important person’s manor and all, and St Olave’s would very surely have sent a vicar here.
The present structure is relatively early for Devon, dating from the fourteenth century with fifteenth century additions.
The old church gate
The church gate having a rest
The entrance gate is a cracker, atmospheric of ancient civilisations slowly leaning into past glories, English charm on sun-scorched day.
A wonder of windows in Sherford Church
A beautiful 14th century window from Sherford Church
One thing Sherford church has is some excellent windows (babbling on about a church’s windows is a pretty good sign that you are truly assimilated into the churching world, lost to the rest of humanity)…
Take the above for example, fourteenth century, and there are four of these darlings in the north aisle. Decorated style it is called, with that beautiful flower top centre… But there is more here too…
Stone carvings of nature
The same window showing the stylised plants
Seedlings is what, a representation of God’s bounty, little two leafed seedlings along with that flower head in the middle; wonderfully the seedlings’ leaves also form part of the central flower head, showing what they will become. Magical, so very so.
It is also an exercise in geometry, though medieval geometry was never just the numbers and shapes that we meet our school days. Geometry was a facet of the sacred, part of Creation, only to be explored by reason, the gift of the Divine.
And truly, for your average Joe or Jane, looking at these windows (and the rest of the church) would have been a revelation of order and balance coming as your average Joe or Jane did from a dwelling without many right angles, if any, nor fancy curves.
Building the windows
15th century windows come out to play
And these beauties, equally good, show styles from a century or more later. The right hand one is the chancel east window and has been extensively if not fully restored, whilst the left hand is the east window of the south aisle.
This style is called Perpendicular because things were more up and down, but the foliage is still there albeit more stylised.
But apart from the sheer artistry and design going on here, there is another level of deep skill here; the actual construction of these windows.
Each window is composed of smaller pieces. The designs were drawn on plaster, then templates made from these drawings and transcribed onto blocks of stone to make the required portion. Joints and seatings, where appropriate, had to be carved exactly not least because these babes weighed a good amount.
And they had to stay as windows, especially in good old windy Devon. The power of that wind is not be discounted, especially against glass, and so a well compressed window, with all the jointing kept in place by some weighty thrust from the surrounding stonework was mighty fine news.
So that little arch of stones above each window? Traditionally called relieving arches because they relieve the weight of the masonry pressing down but they also do more. They redistribute that pressure, allowing it to squeeze in from various directions, thus making the whole so very much more solid.
Much more effective.
Inside Sherford Church of St Martin
The 14th century interior of Sherford Church of St Martin
Inside Sherford church is a delight, with further proof that this is a fourteenth century church being the pillars and arches. Octagonal, or eight sided, pillars built from local stone, and we are possibly looking at them as they were seen originally; the wall plaster stops where it was designed to, showing off the stonework.
There is also another possibility that the pillars and arches were also plastered and/or lime washed. Difficult to say either way.
What is for sure is that arches we can see just in front of the screen are higher than the others. a good clue that they are earlier; at first the church might have been without aisles but with north and south transepts shooting off either side, where the taller arches are.
This would have been a pricey church for its time but this area of South Devon, the South Hams, is extremely fertile, thus money.
On top of this Sherford had access to the sea through Frogmore creek at the west end of the parish, now more a sea of mud but less so in the past. Weirs and mills and minings have caused a fine amount of silting of Devon’s creeks and estuaries.
Light through beautiful stained glass
Worldly riches are but a distraction though, at least according to the Way of Christ, and one function of churches is to open our souls to the Divine through beauty, which this Victorian stained glass surely does in spades.
Food for the soul indeed.
The battered 16th century rood screen
The old rood screen, or rood loft as was (probably early sixteenth century), is also still a beauty; the guide calls it ‘somewhat mutilated’ and this has a truck load of truth to it. Age, woodworm and misguided restoration will do that.
By golly, it is still a beaut still with all that.
A Beautiful Inhabited Vine Scroll
Fine carving from Sherford rood screen
Just look at that carving work, that is quality that is. The brown goop? Victorian restoration, definitely somewhat misguided albeit with the best of intentions.
An Inhabited Vine Scroll is the technical name for this, the meaning clear to all except us Godless moderns.
The vine and grapes are the blood of Christ the Saviour, the birds are souls, and they are fed by the blood of Christ; the message (amongst others) is that the blood of Christ feeds and saves us, if we do but partake.
And for medieval folk partaking in the Mass meant seeing it and joining in the mystical experience; they did not need to actually consume the wine and bread, the blood and body of Christ.
Indeed, usually at the moment of the sacring, the consecration of the host, a bell was rung to be heard out in the fields, and folk who had not made it to church would pause and pray and be part of the Mass.
Most excellent tracery as well
So what was the original colouring, for coloured it most surely was?
Well, conservators (Hugh Harrison and the late Eddie Sinclair) have had a good look, and part of it was gilded with silver on a red ochre background, with a crimson overglaze, giving almost a rose-gold appearance, and part of it gilded with gold, and then there would be the reds and greens of more paint to keep the high bling company.
What brilliance, what lush magnificence!
Also, if you will, note the tracery carving, similar to the Perpendicular style windows from before, still foliage based with all its little buds and leaves.
Fabulous carving on the wainscoting
Fabulous carving on the rood screen wainscoting in Sherford Church
Lower down on the wainscoting the carving is equally magnificent, even if still gooped all over. This was a very classy screen in its day. Still is I venture, for all its damage.
Oh, and the saints depicted? From the left, St James Minor, St Andrew, St John Evangelist and St Peter.
Medieval paintings of the saints in Sherford Church
Saints Bartholomew and Simon against a landscape
The figures are…
Skilfully executed… of high quality and are clearly painted in a sophisticated, confident style, very different from many Devon figure panels and suggesting a Flemish influence
Eddie Sinclair, Conservation Report
They even have their names written next to them, here St Bartholomew and St Philip, though my guess is that this text might be later as the medieval worshippers would have easily recognised the saints… plus they were not so hot at reading.
Similar can be seen at Holcombe Burnell of this county, though there they get the names of some of the saints wrong.
Part of the charm of these is the background landscapes, a rare feature and maybe underlining the Flemish influence.
Faces from the past
A saint’s face, medieval style
Getting closer, and getting our eyes within a few centimetres of church prettiness is so rewarding, the faces come alive as each brushstroke pulls our attentions inwards.
But Diane Wilks says it better than me…
The figures are quite statuesque with intensely drawn individualistic faces
Showing the Path to Heaven, Diane Wilks
Mind you, they do need a good scrub, but then the same could be said about my place. And has been, to be fair.
Sherford Church chancel
The chancel and sanctuary
Through the screen lies the workaday chancel, white limestone altar back, that flash of strong red, and muted Victorian floor tiles, all splashed with pastel light from the east window; a delightful space indeed.
Fine Victorian tiles
A Victorian encaustic tile showing a symbol of the Holy Trinity
With some of the floor tiles being very most elegant, as this one here shows. The surrounding foliage gentling the inner shield, the fleur de lys (lilies) against the blue, both symbols of the Virgin Mary, and then the double interlocked triangles symbolising the Holy Trinity.
Very, very nice to be sure.
A Piscina and a Holy Water stoup
A 14th century piscina and Holy Water stoup
Another charm in the chancel, in the sanctuary to be exact near the altar, is this fourteenth century piscina on the left, understated elegance in its classic trefoil shape; trefoil refers to the three ‘leaves’ at the top of the carving.
Piscinas have a drain into the church walls; they were used to rinse the communion vessels and the priest’s hands after Mass, making sure that all the leftovers of the consecrated bread and wine ended up in holy ground.
On the left is another fourteenth sweetling, near the south door this one, a holy water stoup; probably a bowl with the blessed water was placed here and folks would sprinkle themselves with it and say a short prayer as the entered or left.
Mind you, seeing the state of the wobbly trefoil up top, seems like someone has been indulging in the holy water a bit overmuch at times.
The battered pulpit
The Sherford pulpit made from rood screen bits and bobs
Talking about somewhat wobbly and a few sips over the holy water limit, this dude would really like a word.
It is, of course, the pulpit, a somewhat cobbled together pulpit to say the least, from the nineteenth century; the carved bits come from the rood screen, the planks from somewhere else.
Recently the conservationist Hugh Harrison removed some of the carvings and analysed them; the remaining medieval colouring under that brown mud matched the screen’s exactly, making doubly sure that the woodwork really did hop over from the screen.
He then moved some of the carvings back to the wainscoting.
Apart from the function of affording the figure panels greater protection, it has visually restored the balance to the carving of the screen and united the dado (the wainscoting) with the rest of the screen.
Hugh Harrison, Hugh Harrison Conservation,Sherford Conservator’s Report
A closer look reveals…
More marvellous carving on the pulpit
More marvellous carving
…how the carvings match the frieze and the wainscoting on that screen so exactly.
And, of course, just how tippety-top they are.
A George I coat of arms
The George I royal coat of arms
There is also this fine George I coat of arms. These royal arms are always a delight to come across, their vernacular painting and all the various interpretations of the component parts.
Real workaday folk art.
Everyday wonder, everyday magnificence
Light and shadow and wonder and beauty
Sherford really is delectable church set in an enchanting parish and well worth a good visit.
But as ever, we can applaud the objects, the screen, the stonework, the paintings, the wood carving, the tilework, the glass but there is always more; how they dance with the light and shadow, how they swim with the sounds and textures…
Constantly changing, constantly enchanting, bringing the marvel and awe that feeds our human thirst for soulful beauty, found so easily in our Devon churches.
And to take time to live in this atmosphere is time very well spent indeed.
Buckland Monachorum is a village and civil parish in the West Devon district of Devon, England, situated on the River Tavy, about 10 miles north of Plymouth.
In 2006 the neighbourhood had an estimated 1,511 residents and 654 dwellings. The electoral ward of the same name gave a population of 3,380 at the 2011 census.
Domesday Book (1086) records Buckland Monachorum (Bocheland) as having 46 households, land for 15 ploughs, a salt pan and a fishery. The estate was owned by William de Poilley, probably a Norman knight, although he is not listed in the rolls of the Battle of Hastings. William de Poilley held 17 estates in southern Devon as a tenant-in-chief of William the Conqueror, making him a person of regional significance.
Near to Buckland Monachorum is Buckland Abbey, home of Sir Francis Drake during the Elizabethan era. The village is the site of St. Andrew's, a 12th-century church with a Saxon baptismal font and the tombs of the Drake family and Lord Heathfield, the defender of Gibraltar, many historic buildings, and a complex of interesting gardens, known as "The Garden House". The Gift House, a seventeenth-century Almshouse, was built by a descendant of Sir Francis Drake.
The River Bovey rises on the eastern side of Dartmoor in Devon, England, and is the largest tributary to theRiver Teign.
The river has two main source streams, both rising within a mile of each other, either side of the B3212 road between Moretonhampstead and Postbridge, before joining at Jurston.
The river flows for about two miles northwards from source before turning to a generally south easterly direction.
It passes the village of North Bovey, flows through the Lustleigh Cleave between the villages of Manaton and Lustleigh, and then through the town of Bovey Tracey. It joins the River Teign on the boundary between the parishes of Teigngrace and Kingsteignton, about a mile south of the village of Chudleigh Knighton.
Catchment
The catchment of the river runs to the West at Chagford Common, past Hookney Tor, and the road from Ford gate to Hound Tor.
To the South, the watershed is with the River Lemon and runs from Hemsworthy Gate to Haytor Rocks, past Brimley and to the North of Stover Country Park.
The Eastern boundary runs between Chudleigh Knighton to Doccombe, and in the North, is runs in a line from just outside Moretonhampstead to Meldon Hill, South of Chagford.
Tributaries
There are two main tributaries, one being the Becka Brook, rising near Hound Tor, flowing through Becky Falls, and joining the Bovey just below Trendlebere Down.
The second is the Wray Brook which starts North of Moretonhampstead, and joins the Bovey to the South of Lustleigh.
Bovey Tracey
was an established Saxon community and takes its name from the River Bovey.
The name first appears in Domesday Book as Bovi and possibly earlier as Buui.
The town gained its second name from the de Tracey family who were lords of the manor after the Norman Conquest, and was first documented as Bovi tracy in 1309.
One member of the family, William de Tracy, was implicated in the murder of Archbishop Thomas Becket in Canterbury Cathedral in 1170.
It is thought that he rebuilt the parish church of St Peter, St Paul and St Thomas of Canterbury as penance for the murder. In the early 13th century Henry de Tracey created a borough here and in 1259 was granted the right to hold a weekly market and an annual three-day fair.
During the English Civil War on 9 January 1646,Oliver Cromwell and a contingent of his Roundhead army entered Bovey Tracey after dark and caught part of Lord Wentworth's Regiment by surprise, catching a number of officers playing cards in an inn. Many of Wentworth's Royalist troops escaped, but Cromwell did capture about 400 horse.
If local legend is to be believed, the Royalists escaped by throwing coins from the windows in order to distract the poorly paid Roundhead troops.
The next day a battle was fought on nearby Bovey Heath ending in victory for Cromwell's army.
The name of Cromwell lives on in the town today in both the public house "The Cromwell Arms" and the remains of a nearby stone arch, known locally (and incorrectly) as "Cromwell's Arch".
The arch is actually what is left of a priory that stood previously on the site of the nearby Baptist Church.
The Bovey Tracey Potteries operated from the 1750s for about 200 years.
Bovey railway station was opened on 26 June 1866 with the new Moretonhampstead and South Devon Railway on a site to the west of the town.
It closed to passengers on 28 February 1959, but goods trains continued to operate until 6 July 1970.
The town is twinned withLe Molay-Littry in Normandy.
Geography
Bovey Tracey lies in the valley of the River Bovey at the junction of theA382 road (between Newton Abbot and Moretonhampstead) and the B3387 road (Chudleigh Knighton to Haytor Vale).
Church of St Peter, St Paul and St Thomas of Canterbury
Original paintings of apostles and prophets on the wainscot of the rood screen, restored by Anna Hulbert, dated to the early 16th century
The town has over a hundred listed buildings. The parish church, at the top of the town, is grade I listed.[6]It has a tower dating from the 14th century, many 15th-century carvings including three misericords, and a screen described by Arthur Mee as "one of the finest in this county of fine screens". The church has an unbroken list of vicars from 1258. On Hind Street, the East Dartmoor Baptist Church was built in 1824 and is now grade II listed. Original support for the church came mainly from workers in the Bovey Potteries.[8]
Since 1986, the Devon Guild of Craftsmen contemporary crafts gallery has occupied a building known as Riverside Mill, on the bank of the River Bovey. The building, dating from 1854, has an undershot water wheel that was used to pump water up to a tank in its tower. The stored water was used as the supply for a nearby house owned by John Divett and to water its stable yard and gardens.[10]Nearby, the Bovey Tracey Heritage Centre in the old Bovey railway station is run by volunteers and is open in the summer months.
On the outskirts of the town are the House of Marbles, a visitor attraction on the site of the historic pottery; and the headquarters of the Dartmoor National Park Authority at Parke, a large house which is leased to the authority by the National Trust.[13]Also nearby are a Devon Wildlife Trust nature reserve at Bovey Heath and the Haytor Granite Tramway, the route of which runs through the parish, west of the town.
According to the town council the town has a "good mixture of shops" and there is a farmers' market on alternate Saturday mornings.
Historic estates
Within the parish of Bovey Tracey are various historic estates, including:
Produce.
Westcote, writing in the reign of Charles I., says, that whereas considerable quantities of grain used formerly to be exported from this county; it was in his time, from the increase of manufactures, especially in the north and south parts, become so populous that much grain was imported, and he instances one year (1610) in which as much-was brought into the county as sold for 60,000l. Mr. Fraser, in his Survey, (1794,) speaks of the district about Kingsbridge, Dartmouth, and Modbury, as remarkable for the produce of barley, and observes that it was exported from Salcombe in quantities scarcely to be credited. A great part of the barley is now malted in the county: the quantities exported in the year 1820 from the port of Dartmouth (in which Salcombe is included) were 5548 quarters of barley, and 7180 quarters of malt. There were exported also from this port 2468 quarters of wheat, 558 of wheat flour, and 357 of oats; all these were sent coastwise. Great quantities of corn are grown in the neighbourhood of Hartland, Bideford, and Ilfracombe; and there is a considerable exportation from those ports.(fn. n1)
The chief corn-markets in the county are Exeter, Tavistock, Totnes, Barnstaple, Plymouth, and Kingsbridge.
About the year 1770 potatoes were grown in great quantities in the neighbourhood of Moreton Hampstead: they were taken to a market then held at Two-bridges on Dartmoor, and purchased for the supply of Plymouth and its populous neighbourhood, which is now entirely supplied with potatoes grown south of Dartmoor. Potatoes are now grown in considerable quantities in the South Hams: 90,498 bushels were exported from Dartmouth in 1820.
I find nodatafor ascertaining when Devonshire first became noted as a cyder county. Orchards are not mentioned in the Domesday survey, and I have not met with any incidental mention of them in records of the two or three centuries succeeding, to throw any light on the subject. It appears from a passage in Hoker's MS. Survey of Devon(fn. n2), written in the sixteenth century, that a considerable variety of apples were then cultivated, and he does not speak of orchards as a novelty. He enumerates thirteen sorts, one of which he calls the cyder fruit. The following passage from the description of Great Britain(fn. n3)by Harrison, who was a contemporary of Hoker, intimates that cyder was then by no means a common liquor; the more general use of it seems to have taken place before the beginning of the ensuing century. "In some places of England," says he, "there is a kind of drink made of apples, which they call cider, or pomage, but that of peares is named pirrie, and both are ground and pressed in presses made for the nonce; certes these two are very common in Sussex, Kent, Worcester, and other steedes (Devonshire is not mentioned), where these sorts of fruit do abound; howbeit they are not their only drinke at all times, but referred unto the delicate sorts of drinke, as metheglin in Wales." A great increase of orcharding took place in Devonshire soon after this. Westcote, writing early in the following century, says, "They have of late years much enlarged their orchards, and are very curious in planting and grafting all kynds of fruits for all seasons, of which they make good use and profyt, both for furnishing their own table and the neighbouring markets; but most especially for making of cyder, a drink both pleasant and healthye(fn. n4), much desired of seamen for long voyages, more fitte to make beverage than beere, and much cheaper and easier to be had than wyne."(fn. n5)
Great quantities of cyder are now made, in a productive year, for exportation. The largest exportation ever known was in the year 1820, in which 11,265 hogsheads(fn. n6)were sent from the ports of Exeter and Dartmouth (the former including Teignmouth, and the latter Salcombe(fn. n7)). Prodigious quantities are made for home-consumption. Almost every part of the county has its orchards; but the cyder of the South Hams is preferred, and it is there only, and in the neighbourhood of Exeter, that it is made for exportation. I find however in Polwhele an observation that cyder of a fine quality is made in the parishes of Dunkeswell and Church Staunton, said to have been equal to that of the South Hams; and this observation I have heard confirmed. In the more fertile parts of the county, most adapted for the culture of the apple-tree, the produce is said to be immense. Mr. Polwhele speaks of one tree as having produced five hogsheads of cyder. Mr. Fraser mentions an orchard of three acres at Staverton, which, in 1793, produced 80 hogsheads. It is estimated that in that parish alone 8000 hogsheads are made in a full-bearing year: there are 32 presses and pounds in the parish. Dartington also, and some other of the neighbouring parishes, produce great abundance of cyder, and of the richest quality.
Cyder is sent from Devonshire to London, Newcastle-upon-Tyne, Sunderland, Leith, Swansea, Liverpool, and thence by the canals into Yorkshire, &c.
The parish of Beer Ferrers has long been noted for its produce of fruit, as cherries, strawberries(fn. n8), pears, walnuts, &c. Goodleigh has long been, and still is, famous for its produce of cherries, which are brought to the market at Barnstaple. There are cherry-orchards also at Christow. Paignton, on the Torbay coast, is famous for a peculiar sort of cabbage, which takes its name from that village: it is grown also in great quantities in the adjoining parish of Cockington: this cabbage is an excellent vegetable, and there is a great demand for it in the season, as well as for the seed and plants. The great markets for it are Exeter and Plymouth.
Hemp was formerly grown in great quantities in the parish of Comb Martin. It was spoken of as an important commodity when it was proposed to make a port at Hartland, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth.(fn. n9)It has long ceased to be cultivated in that neighbourhood. Flax is spoken of by Campbell as one of the principal commodities of Devon at a later period. It is still cultivated in considerable quantities in the parish of Halberton, and some is grown in the adjoining parishes, on the borders of Somersetshire.
Among the vegetable productions of the earth, or rather of the rocks, which have been converted to a commercial purpose, may be mentioned the lichens, or rock-moss, used by the dyers. We are told that, in the years from 1762 to 1767 inclusive, Mr. Davy, whose brother had obtained a patent for making it into English orchil, collected, from the rocks and tors of Dartmoor, nearly 100 tons of the lichen tartareus. Many tons of this lichen, and of the lichen parellus, which is applicable to the same purposes, were collected in the neighbourhood of Oakhampton about 20 years ago. After they have been well stripped, it requires many years to clothe the rocks again with these vegetable productions; but I am informed that there is now a plentiful crop of both species.
The number of cattle bred in this county is considerable; they are, for the most part, sent in droves from various parts of the county, to the graziers, in Somersetshire, Essex, &c., who fatten them for the London markets. Considerable numbers of sheep also are bred in the north of Devon, and there is a great sheep-fair at Bampton, but not equal to those in Hampshire. Among the exports of 1820 at Dartmouth, I find 3684 sheep sent coastwise to Portsmouth and Brighthelmstone.
The wool grown on Dartmoor was formerly (in the reign of Edward I.) exported in considerable quantities to foreign countries. In more modern times it has formed one of the principal articles of importation, especially in the more flourishing periods of the manufactures.
Butter is sent in considerable quantities from the neighbourhood of Honiton, Axminster, &c., to London. I am assured, from the best authority(fn. n10), that not less than 1500 dozen pounds are sent weekly from Honiton to London, and about 300 dozen pounds for the supply of the towns on the south coast of Devon. During the war, great quantities were sent to Portsmouth.
What has been said of the Cornish mines may here be repeated of the tin-mines of this county; that it appears from Strabo, Herodotus, and other ancient writers, that the Phœnicians, and after them successively the Greeks and the Romans, traded for that article with the western inhabitants of Britain, and that there is no doubt that it had become an article of commerce at a very remote period, and continued such even during the middle ages. There is no mention of the Devonshire tin-mines in the record of Domesday; yet we find that so early as the reign of Richard I. it was one of the principal sources of the revenue of the earldom of Cornwall. In the tenth year of that monarch's reign, the earldom being then in the crown, William de Wortham accounted at the exchequer for the ferm and issues of the tin-mines of Devon and Cornwall.(fn. n11)In the 14th of King John, the same William accounted for the sum of 200 marks for the ferm of the stannary of Cornwall, and 200l. for the ferm of that of Devon, by which it seems that the Devonshire mines were then worked to a greater extent than those of Cornwall. It is probable, however, that, from some temporary causes, the tin-mines were not then so productive as they afterwards became; for the immense wealth which enabled Earl Richard, in 1257, to purchase the title of King of the Romans, has been attributed by the old foreign historians to the revenue which he derived from the tin-mines of his earldom.
In 1250 King Henry III. had granted a charter of protection to the tinners of Devon, commanding all knights and others, of whom the tinners of Dartmoor held, that they should not exact from them other customs or services than they ought, and had been accustomed to do, nor to vex them contrary to the liberties they had before enjoyed under charters of the King's predecessors, but maintain them in the said liberties.(fn. n12)In 1337 the profits of the coinage of tin to the Earl of Cornwall, in the county of Devon, were 273l. 19s. 5¾d.(fn. n13)In the years 1373, 1374, and 1375, the coinage of tin produced, on an average, only 127l. per annum.(fn. n14)In 1471 the quantity of tin raised in Devon was 242,624 lb. the profit to the duke 190l. 17s. 11½d., being at the rate of 1s. 6¾d. per hundred weight. The quantity raised in Cornwall that year was 851,116 lb., the profit 1705l. 5d., the rate of duty in that county being at 4s. per hundred weight. In 1479 the weight of tin was, in Devon, 211,045 lb., the profit 166l. 9s. 5½d.; in Cornwall, 808,950 lb., the profit 1620l. 17s. 11d.(fn. n15)The profits in both counties, 15 Hen. VIII., were 2771l. 3s. 9¼d. In that year there were, in the county of Devon, 424 tinners, who paid what was called the white rent, 8d. per annum, to the duchy. In the year 1602 the profit of the coinage of tin in this county was only 102l. 17s. 9¾d.(fn. n16)
The average quantity of tin raised in Devon for six years, ending at Michaelmas 1820, was 1171 blocks, weighing 586 cwt. and 9lbs., and yielding a duty of 45l. 17s. 9d.(fn. n17)Of the tin-mines now worked, Vitifer, in the parish of North Bovey, Ailsborough, in that of Shipstor, and Whiteworks, in that of Lidford, are upon a large scale. The former has been rather productive, but is now on the point of being abandoned. Gobbets, in Widdecombe in the Moor, is, or was lately, working: Wheal Union, in Ashburton, and Bottlehill, in Plympton St. Mary, are, or were lately, working for tin and copper. There are also some stream-works and small mines near Dartmouth, worked by labouring miners on their own account.
There have been old tin-mines in most of the parishes bordering on Dartmoor(fn. n18), and stream-works on most of the rivers in its neighbourhood; the old stream-works at Plympton were renewed some years ago, but have not been worked since 1805.
Early in the sixteenth century the stream-works on all these and the Cornish rivers were worked to a great extent, whereby the principal southern ports and havens of the two counties were decayed and destroyed. The act passed for their preservation, in 1531, states in the preamble, that so great a quantity of sand, gravel, stone, rubble, earth, and filth, descending and coming down from the rivers near which the said works were carried on, had so filled and choked the said havens that whereas ships of 800 tons might heretofore have easily entered at low water, then ships of 100 tons could scarcely enter at half-flood. It was enacted, that no person should search for tin near the rivers connected with these havens, unless the searchers should make "hatches or tyes" to secure the said stone, sand, gravel, &c., from being carried down by the rivers, under a penalty of 10l. By another act passed four years after, the penalty was increased to 20l. It was enacted in the fourteenth year of Richard II., that tin should be exported from Dartmouth only; but this statute was repealed the following year. The tin concerns are regulated by the stannary laws(fn. n19), which have been already mentioned. The stannary towns of Devon are, Ashburton, Chagford, Plympton, and Tavistock. The tin was formerly smelted and coined in the county, but since the produce raised has been so much diminished, it has been taken into Cornwall to be smelted.
New Quayis a small once industrial abandoned hamlet and intensive mining port on the steep, winding banks of the River Tamar in Devon. New Quay village is immediately east of and downstream of the similar port of Morwellham Quay (now the heart of an open-air museum). New Quay was an important copper ,tin and later arsenic port serving the local mines including the George and Charlotte Mine, Bedford Consolidated MineandGawton Arsenic Mine. Since July 2006 New Quay is within the World Heritage Site that is the Cornwall and West Devon Mining Landscape.
History
The closest mines to New Quay are the Gawton Arsenic Mine, a scheduled ancient monument, Bedford Consolidated Mine and the George and Charlotte Mine. Across the water was Harewood Consolidated Mine. On the eastern high ridge were Tavy Consolidated Mine, East and West Liscombe and Wheal Tamar Copper Mines, and the William and Mary Mine.
As with Morwellham, the whole area is in the south of the highly scattered late 19th century parish of Gulworthy, today a civil parish and a small contributor parish to an ecclesiastical benefice in the Church of England, previously a hamlet of Tavistock. The mining families in the community were split between the established church and other sects of Protestantism - the then small town of Bere Alston to the south having had chapels or meeting houses for these in 1887[7]including a Presbyterian Church in 1822.
It to an extent benefited from the short but major engineering feat of the Tavistock Canal, forming a junction with the Tamar at Morwellham quay, completed in June 1817 with a tunnel of 1.75 miles (2.82 km) altogether built at an expense of £68,000 (equivalent to £6,289,000 in 2023) being in engineering and in export of ores a remarkable achievement before its decline in the 1860s.
An account of the county in 1818 states "the Tamar is navigable to New Quay...for vessels of about 130 or 140 tons: vessels of fourteen feet draught go up to Morwell-ham quay, six miles from Plymouth" — the first distance appears to be an error.[4]
Since the village was abandoned in the early 20th century it became overgrown and large cut masonry stones from the quay were stolen. In 2008 work was begun to halt New Quay's further destruction: many of the buildings were stabilised and repaired and much of the undergrowth was cut back.
The Bishop’s Palace at Paignton
(often called Paignton Palace or Bishop’s Palace, Tower Road) is the medieval residence of the Bishops of Exeter whose fragmentary remains survive beside St John the Baptist church; the site is a Scheduled Monument with upstanding medieval walls and a 14th‑century corner tower sometimes called Coverdale’s Tower .
Historic England — List Entry (The Bishop’s Palace, Tower Road): official scheduling record and description of the monument . Wikipedia — Bishop’s Palace, Paignton: concise summary, coordinates and links to the Historic England entries Paignton Heritage Society — Paignton Old Town: local history page noting the Bishop’s Tower, church and surviving medieval fabric in the Old Town area . Historical Marker (HMDB) — Paignton Palace: The Medieval Bishop’s Hall: text of the on-site interpretive panel summarising excavations, reinterpretation and the 2003/2012 research and consolidation work . Torbay / Old Paignton Conservation Appraisal: local authority conservation/heritage assessment with contextual history for Old Paignton and the palace site .
Paignton Palace: The Medieval Bishop's Hall
Photographed by Ray Gurganus, April 6, 2025
1. Paignton Palace: The Medieval Bishop's Hall Marker
Inscription.
This ruinous building was long thought to have been a chapel. It has stood isolated in the corner of the churchyard since the 1850s when Church Path was laid out by breaking through the east wall next to the southeast entry. In 1899 the path was widened and a garden created, with its walls retained as revetments against the churchyard. In 2003 the Paignton Preservation and Local History Society, supported by the Heritage Lottery Fund, commissioned the excavation of the site prior to its consolidation. and display, and replacements for the Victorian railings which were removed in World War II. Further research was carried out in 2012 and a full reinterpretation published in the150th Anniversary Transactions of the Devonshire Association(Vol. 144).
Excavation of the garden by over a metre (the horizontal line across the walls and render indicates the former level) revealed two buildings a large one with a smaller garderobe (latrine) block added to its north side. The main a range to the south with its door in the southeast corner was attached to the high north wall of another building on the other side of Church Path.Paid AdvertisementBoth buildings pre-date the erection in the 14th century probably in the period 1330-48, but possibly the 1380s of the crenellated enclosure walls, which included them in its circuit and now enclose the Vicarage garden. The main building is probably the early Bishop's Hall, or possibly his Solar (living chamber), of mid-late 13th century date with an unheated undercroft below a heated room; there is a similar 13th century hall to at Lamphey Palace, Pembrokeshire. A common pattern of expansion is for such blocks be converted into communal use when a larger hall, or Solar, is built at a later date. Here, as at Lamphey and the Bishop of Salisbury's palace at Sonning, this was achieved by the addition of the garderobe block. Its chambers form a mirror plan: the block has four shafts, two from an upper level on the north, indicating another floor; all discharge into a drain below the lower floor level. The lower floor of both buildings appears to have been of beaten earth not uncommon in the understoreys of even the most prestigious buildings, such as Torre Abbey.
That the main building had a previous function is clear from the build of the garderobe, which is demonstratively secondary, its main walls abut, rather than bond with, the north wall of the main range, itself built with no architectural concessions. The latrines form distinct and separate chambers of some size,
Photographed by Ray Gurganus, April 6, 2025
2. Medieval Bishop's Hall Marker, Church of St John the Baptist in the background
independent of the north wall. The eastern jamb of the doorway into the garderobe survives to a height of nearly 2 metres and shows the scar of a robbed-out dressed-stone arch, though no such sign exists on the western jamb. The height of the main building's southeast threshold - medieval ground level - is 2'/60cm lower than that formed through the north wall. There are no signs of steps to connect these levels, only indications that the original floor of the main range had been raised in a wedge shape to provide a better link between the different levels.
Erected byTorbay Council.
Topics.This historical marker is listed in these topic lists:Anthropology & Archaeology•Architecture•Churches & Religion.
Location.50° 26.183′ N, 3° 34.19′ W. Marker is in Paignton, England, in Torbay. It is on Palace Place, on the right when traveling west.Touch for map. Marker is at or near this postal address: 7 Palace Pl, Paignton, England TQ3 3AG, United Kingdom.Touch for directions.
Other nearby markers.At least 8 other markers are within 10 kilometers of this marker, measured as the crow flies:Paignton: Episcopal Manor, Town and Palace(here, next to this marker);Totnes Town Mill(approx. 8 kilometers away);The Shady Garden(approx. 8.2 kilometers away);Ann Ball(approx. 8.4 kilometers away);Welcome to The Market SquarePaid Advertisement(approx. 8.5 kilometers away);The Medieval Town of Totnes(approx. 8.6 kilometers away);The Shell Keep(approx. 8.6 kilometers away);The Castle Bailey(approx. 8.6 kilometers away).
Location
https://www.torbay.gov.uk/media/7582/old-paignton-caa.pdf
The building or site itself may lie within the boundary of more than one authority.
District:Torbay (Unitary Authority)
Parish:Non Civil Parish
National Grid Reference:SX 88612 60774
Reasons for Designation
Bishops' palaces were high status domestic residences providing luxury accommodation for the bishops and lodgings for their large retinues; although some were little more than country houses, others were the setting for great works of architecture and displays of decoration. Bishops' palaces were usually set within an enclosure, sometimes moated, containing a range of buildings, often of stone, including a hall or halls, chapels, lodgings and a gatehouse, often arranged around a courtyard or courtyards. The earliest recorded examples date to the seventh century. Many were occupied throughout the medieval period and some continued in use into the post- medieval period; a few remain occupied today. Only some 150 bishops' palaces have been identified and documentary sources confirm that they were widely dispersed throughout England. All positively identified examples are considered to be nationally important.
The Bishop's Palace in Tower Road in Paignton survives as a clearly defined walled area with part of its medieval walling still standing, as well as a corner tower of the 14th century still standing to its full height. Only a small number of bishops' palaces were built within any one See. Of the palaces provided for the Exeter bishops only the fragmentary remains of those at Bishop's Clyst and Bishopsteignton bear comparison with Paignton, but later development has impacted upon the survival of both sites. Thus, the Bishop's Palace at Paignton with its surviving curtain walling and largely undisturbed interior, together with the ruins identified as a chapel attached to the palace, provides a well-preserved example of this class of monument. The palace will provide archaeological evidence relating to the lives of its inhabitants and of the bishops who stayed there, the role of the palace in relation to the local contemporary community, and the wider ecclesiastical influence exerted in medieval times.
Details
The monument includes the standing and buried remains of the medieval walled palace of the Bishop of Exeter in Paignton (the medieval walls of which are Listed Grade II*) and the standing and buried remains of what is considered to be part of the private palace chapel, Listed Grade II. Apart from the fragmentary remains of the chapel, none of the original internal buildings of the palace stand above ground although the walled enclosure, rebuilt in places, stands to full height over part of its circuit and one corner tower survives and is Listed Grade II*. The palace, which had much open ground to the south until at least the mid-19th century, lies within the urban spread of the town, and its walls enclose an early 20th century vicarage (Listed Grade II). The palace has been the subject of a survey conducted in 2001 by English Heritage. The Bishop's Palace comprises the residual remains of the Bishop of Exeter's episcopal residence at Paignton. The property was used as a manorial centre and occasional residence of the bishops from the 11th century until the early 16th century when it was reported to be in a state of advanced decay. Bishop Osbern has sometimes been credited with the erection of the palace around 1100 but no building work of such an early date is known to survive. However, Bishop Grandisson is recorded as having used the palace as a place of residence in the years of his bishopric (1327-1369) during which time the full panoply of buildings typically associated with a medieval episcopal house of the period are likely to have been erected. These would include, apart from the main residence itself, a hall for receiving guests, various ancillary buildings, and a chapel. Excavations carried out in the late 19th century are believed to have revealed the footings of some of the main palace buildings, but the records of these investigations are unfortunately lost. A consequence of the excavations appears to have been a rise in the level of the ground surface within the walled enclosure due to the spoil having been left on site; some importation of soil may also have taken place to level the area in advance of new building work. More recent archaeological recording undertaken by English Heritage has shown that there is evidence to suggest the presence of major stone buildings of probable 13th century date within the later walled enclosure. The same programme of recording has demonstrated that the crenallated curtain wall as it stands represents a number of different builds and repairs with the earliest walling examined dated to the 14th century. The curtain wall was proved to have incorporated existing buildings within its circuit. This shows clearly on the northern precinct wall where an 18m stretch of walling has an internal face displaying joist sockets and the scarring of a return wall at its eastern end. This wall was part of a building of at least the 13th century which underwent a varied and complex history of development before its outer face was employed as a section of the enclosure, the curtain wall being butt-joined to its outer corner. Medieval work is thought to be in evidence in three of the four walls of the enclosure and it is distinguishable by the consistent use of red/pink breccia sandstone and the regular occurrence of putlog holes and slit loops for the firing of arrows; the whole of the west wall is of post-medieval work as well as those parts of the other three sides not clearly identifiable as medieval. The policy of fortifying bishops' residences was the result of unrest in the country as a whole and stemmed from the gradual increase in the wealth and power of the bishops who needed to maintain control and authority over their manors. The resulting defences were designed and built therefore to serve against civil discontent. A date sometime in the 14th century for the erection of the curtain wall coincides with this period of unrest and would accord well with the licence to crenellate which was granted to The Bishopric of Exeter in 1379, apparently for a rural residence, although it is uncertain whether this relates directly to Paignton. Located in the south east corner of the precinct is a tower which rises well above the 3.5m height of the curtain wall. This tower, which is variously called the Bible Tower or Coverdale Tower, is so named after Bishop Miles Coverdale whose translation of the Bible was mistakenly thought to have been undertaken whilst he was in residence at Paignton; it was later shown to have been completed in Antwerp some years before he became Bishop of Exeter. The tower, which is built of random breccia rubble which matches the curtain wall, is believed to have been built in the mid- to late 14th century, probably within a few years of the curtain wall. The windows are indicative of a first phase in the 14th century followed by a partial refenestration in the 15th century. The tower was restored extensively, probably during the late 19th century or the early 20th century, perhaps both. Almost certainly incorporated into the walled enclosure of the 14th century was the building which survives as a ruin in the south west corner of St John the Baptist's churchyard. The position and form of this building make it very likely to have been the private chapel of the Bishop of Exeter and thus part of the palace complex. The construction of a road in the post-medieval period, which necessitated the demolition of part of the northern and eastern curtain walls, appears to have destroyed part of the chapel and to have divided what did remain from the main palace buildings. The present precinct wall shows post-medieval walling at the points where the road was driven through, suggesting that at some stage after 1840, when the road is shown to exist on a tithe map, a decision was taken to reinstate the walled enclosure, perhaps for the privacy of the new vicarage of 1910, but omitting the chapel which is known to have been a ruin by that date. The English Heritage studies of 2001 have supported the view that the visible ruins in the churchyard represent the eastern end of the chapel of the 13th century together with an associated sacristy (room for storing vestments and sacred vessels) on its north wall. Contemporary documentary records indicate that the chapel at the bishops' residence at Paignton was dedicated to St Mary. The palace precinct returned to being a place of ecclesiastical residence in 1910 with the construction of a vicarage within the walls. The vicarage was constructed on a purpose-built mound and therefore stands above and seals any earlier medieval building foundations. A 20th century parish hall also stands within the grounds. A number of features are excluded from the scheduling. These are: the vicarage together with its underlying and associated turf mound, the Parish Hall and all modern buildings and structures within the former walled enclosure, all modern gateways and fencing and all modern surfaces (notably those surfaces which comprise Church Path and Palace Place where these lie within the scheduling). The ground beneath all these features is, however, included.
MAP EXTRACT The site of the monument is shown on the attached map extract.
Legacy
The contents of this record have been generated from a legacy data system.
Legacy System number:33048
Legacy System:RSM
Sources
Books and journals
Alexander, J J, 'Devon and Cornwall Notes and Queries' in Paignton and Miles Coverdale, , Vol. 19, (1936), 128
Couldrey, W G, 'Transactions of the Devonshire Association' in Memories And Antiquities of Paignton, , Vol. 64, (1932), 223
Other
NBR No: 106896, Jones, B V, The Bishop's Palace, Paignton, Devon, (2001)
NBR No: 106896, Jones, B V, The Bishop's Palace, Paignton, Devon, (2001)
Summary
The Bishop’s Palace at Bishopsteignton is the medieval summer palace of the Bishops of Exeter; surviving elements include stretches of curtain wall, the ruined chapel (with trefoil-headed lancet windows) and substantial buried remains. The site is a Scheduled Monument and has associated listed building entries 12345.
Primary online references
What each source is useful for
Useful details to note now
Recommended next steps for deeper research
Quick reference list
The Bishops and their Palace
byRhoda Nevins|Bishop's Palace,Places
A history of the Bishops’ Palace in the Old Walls area of Bishopsteignton; the summer palace for the Bishops of Exeter until the early 1500s.
A Drawing by local artist Brenda Gilpin of the Bishops’ Palace, Old Walls
The Bishops’ Palace is on the site of a Benedictine monastery in the “Old Walls” area of Bishopsteignton.
Section of Ordinance survey map of the area of the Bishops’ Palace
11th Century
In 1042 AD Edward the Confessor became King and Crediton was the seat of the Bishops of Devon and Cornwall. He appointedLeofricwho was his Chaplain, Chancellor and Privy Councillor to the Bishop in the same year. In 1050 AD the seat was moved to Exeter, because it was a walled town and Leofric was installed as the first Bishop of Exeter. Several Charters of endowment were bestowed on him by the King and Teignton or Taintona was one of them.
Bishop Leofric did not care for the Benedictine Monks that King Athelstain had freely installed in various parts of the Diocese and under Edward the Confessor had them removed and installed Secular Canons. The Monks at “Old Walls” also departed and the buildings were rearranged to form the Bishops’ Palace.
There were several gaps between the death of one Bishop and the appointment of another Bishop. This was generally due to national or ecclesiastical troubles. There was also, at times, an interval of months or years between their appointment and consecration.
12th Century
Bishop Warerwast, who was nephew of the Chaplain to King William the Conqueror and his sons Rufus the Red King and Henry I, was appointed Bishop of Exeter and was consecrated by Anselm, Archbishop of Canterbury on August 11th 1107. The seat had been vacant for four years because of disputes between the Archbishop and Henry I, who would not allow any Bishops to be chosen. The new Bishop accompanied King Henry I on his visit to Normandy and, like many Normans, was a builder. Many churches were built by him; the present Exeter Cathedral was begun by him and the two existing towers are a testimony to his ability.
Bishop Brewer,in about 1130, made several visits to the village. While living at Old Walls Palace or House, he confirmed a deed to the Abbot and Convent of Hartland for an annuity of five marks, issuing from the Church of Knowstone. In Bishop Brewer’s time there were no seats in churches, so the clergy desired the Bishop to put small seats in the Cathedral, so they might rest and thus seem to be standing and to this he consented. This also applied to Churches where the congregation stood during a service, except when kneeling on the floor during prayers. The floor was sometimes covered with straw or rushes. If one was elderly or infirm and could not continue to stand, they walked to the wall, where there was a stone ledge or seat, thus the weakest “went to the wall”.
Drawing from an Archaeological Survey carried out in 1932
13th Century
Stephan Langton,who was born in Exeter, became Archbishop of Canterbury and helped to establish the Magna Carta by getting all the Barons to meet in different towns; Bury St Edmunds, St Albans, Canterbury, City of London, Runnymede and Hereford.
The Magna Carta was sealed by King John on 15th June 1215 at Runnymede. The Magna Carta was then revised four times in 1225, 1265 and the last one in 1297, which was solely for the City of London, states ” the City of London shall have all its ancient liberties by land as well by water” which became part of English Law. It is the only one that has its seal still intact and that law and liberty is now enjoyed by nearly two billion people in 100 countries.
Archbishop Stephan Langton also arranged the Bible into Chapters and Verses.
Bishop Bronscombe(1258-1280) was born to poor parents, but by grit and perseverance and being of great character rose to his high position in 10 years. After he was made Bishop of Exeter he dedicated 88 rebuilds or altered churches. He also instituted the Episcopse Registers and there are many references to Bishopsteignton. He often resided at the Palace and it is recorded that he was there for a few days in the years 1261, 1264, 1272, 1275, 1276, 1277, 1278, 1279 and 1280. It is also reported that he died at his favourite Palace in Bishopsteignton on 22nd July 1280.
The Palace soon fell into disrepair and Bronscombe’s three successors –Quivil(1280 – 1291)Bytton(1291 – 1307) andStapledon(1307 – 1326) hardly used the Palace, although Stapledon may have used it, but only for recreational purposes and therefore would have not had to make an entry in the register.
Swete’s painting of the Palace ruins in 1795
14th Century
In 1328Bishop Grandisson(1327 – 1369) petitioned his friend Pope John XXI that he might assume possession of the Palace and farm, to keep it for himself and his successors in perpetuity, giving the reason that the seat, when vacant, would be retained by the Crown. If it was not vacant, then the Bishops would always have somewhere to lay their heads. He obtained the Pope’s consent and proceeded to erect in the sanctuary of Radway a sumptuous house. In his will of 1369 it states, “and let not my successors consign to oblivion how, with much travail and personal experience I went to the Roman court and obtained from them the appropriation of the church at Radway, in their manor of Bishopsteignton and likewise the consent and charter of the King, and how I erected convenient and sumptuous buildings there in the sanctuary, that they might have there to lay their head if their temporabilities should be signed into the hand of the King”
During the Black Death, in which Bishop Grandisson lost two sisters and some nephews, he lived at the Bishops’ Palace at Old Walls. Then in 1361 he ordered the vicar of Bishopsteignton to officiate once a week in the chapel of St John at Radway.
Bishop Brantynghamsucceeded Bishop Grandisson and it is recorded that he only visited the Palace once on March 2nd and 3rd 1373 when he installed priests in the chapel.
The next twoBishop’s StaffordandCatterick, did not use the Palace at all.
Photograph of Bishop’s Palace ruins, Bishopsteignton, c. 1910.
15th Century
Bishop Lacy(1420 – 1455). It is not until Bishop Lacy that Radway was regularly mentioned as a Palace where official acts took place. The first seems to have been in June 1423 about six months after he had taken up full time residence in the Diocese. The registers of subsequent Bishops have not been published, so there is no way of estimating how often they visited Bishopsteignton. However a survey of houses made afterBishop Redman(1495 – 1501) suggests that Radway was becoming unattractive to the Bishops.
16th & 17th Centuries
In 1550Bishop Veyseywas compelled by Edward VI to dispose of the rural manors including Bishopsteignton. The manors of Lyndridge and Radway were conveyed along with other properties to Sir Andrew Dudley who immediately re-conveyed the Bishops’ Manors to Richard Duke.
By 1611 the manors had been leased to Richard Manton of Middle Temple in London. The Palace site is now amongst farm buildings belonging to Ash Hill Farm which for some 250 years was home to the Whidborne family. It is recorded that a member to the Whidborne family, Thomas Whidburn of Ashill Farm, destroyed the chapel – an old chapel in the Bishops’ House. He then used the stone to repair his house and farm buildings. Members of the Whidborne family were stewards of the Palace estates during the latter years of its occupancy by the Bishops.
A photograph of the Palace ruins taken in 1987
It is assumed that from then on, stone has been rolled away to build houses at “Old Walls” end of the village. Hence this area is called “Old Walls”. The Palace ruins now stand on farmland owned by a member of the Dawe family.



Description
Parts of curtain walls and remains of chapel. Probably early C14. Red sandstone and brecchia rubble, neatly dressed with some evidence of render on the curtain walling; chapel dressings a yellowish stone, possibly Salcombe Regis. The site is described in detail by Michael Laithwaite in a Devon County Council Archaeological Report. Plan: A stretch of tall wall to the east of the site and a second section approximately 100m to the west appear to indicate the width of the enclosing walls of the site; a recently exposed lower section of wall to the north may be the remains of the north enclosing wall. The chapel remains consist of a tall south wall and east wall with cusped lancet windows. There are several farmbuildings on the site and the west curtain wall is within a cattle shed. Although the site has been extensively robbed for building material the surviving remains above ground are of major interest and features, including a flight of stone steps, are known to survive below ground (information from Mr Dawe, the owner). The east curtain wall, about 50m long with some putlog holes, retains some coping. At the south end it returns with an external coped buttress. The west wall, about 40m long, also retains some coping and seems to have been broken through at the south end to form an entrance to the farmyard. The chapel south wall retains 5 trefoil-headed lancet windows to the nave, deeply-splayed to the interior, and the remains of buttressing, 2 adjacent openings on the south side to the west, one probably an original doorway. The south side of the chancel has an opening, set surprisingly high in the wall for a doorway, and the remains of a lancet window, only the jambs and sill surviving. The east wall has a trefoil-headed lancet to the south, similar window to the north largely obscured by ivy and a ruinous window in the centre. A cusped holy water stoup survives on the south wall inside the former chapel. Bishop John de Grandisson (1327-69) refers to the buildings in his will. (Listed Building Report)
The Bishop's Palace at Bishopsteignton is a good example of one of the smaller and more compact forms of this class of monument in which both an inner and outer court remain in existence. The buried remains appear to be extensive and relatively unharmed by subsequent activity.
The Bishop's Palace is situated at the head of a small valley on the north side of the Teign estuary, just to the north east of the village of Bishopsteignton. The monument includes the upstanding and buried remains of a palace of the bishops of Exeter in use from the second half of the 13th century until 1550. The visible remains exist in the form of a number of ruined and adapted structures terraced in two levels into the hillside and incorporated into the more recent buildings of a working farm. They include an outer court of irregular shape, the north west corner of which incorporates a square inner court defined in part by the remains of buildings. Small streams border the site to its immediate east and west. The walls are constructed of random-rubble utilising local red sandstone and breccia, with carved details in contrasting white Beer stone. The layout of the inner court indicates that buildings were grouped around a central open space on the upper terrace. The principal standing remains are those of St John's chapel, forming the south east corner of the court, of which the east gable-end and the south wall survive, the former to a height of 8.1m. The chapel is 20m by 7m overall, with buttressed walls pierced at a high level by lancet windows in carved Beer stone. There are three windows in the gable-end and seven in the south wall. The south wall has a stoup, a recess for holding holy water, made from Beer stone set into its inner face, and two doors, devoid of decorative stonework, that open into the outer court which is up to 2m lower. Extending westward from the south west corner of the chapel is a length of wall built to over 4.5m high externally and including part of the string-course of the coping. The inner court measures 38m east/west by 34m north/south overall. Towards its north east corner medieval walls are incorporated within later structures and comprise a 3m high fragment of a dwelling which includes an eternal corner, fireplace, buttresses, and a shallow rectangular stone-lined pit, half filled with water. The west wall of the court is of equivalent height and similarly incorporated, its northern limit having a return to the east. The outer court measures 94m east/west by 55m north/south. It would have originally contained ancillary buildings and the main gateway. The east wall is the best surviving section, 44m in length, 3.5m high, and retaining a triangular, stepped coping. Its southern end is much lower and marked by a buttress and a wall return, rendered internally, which is indicative of a building in that area, although it is now badly overgrown. The north wall only survives as foundations. The north side of the palace is terraced into the hill-slope by up to 3m. The western wall of the outer court has been exposed in the past as a line of foundations extending south from the corner of the inner court. On the south side there are no identifiable remains, the substantial bank and hedge adjacent to the road are presumed to follow the line of the outer court. Fragments of carved Beer stone were built into the wall of a modern farm building on the east side of the inner court. These indicate a range and quality of architectural decoration not exemplified in the surviving structures. Within the area of the palace the buried remains appear to be extensive and not covered to any great depth. The manor of Bishopsteignton belonged to the bishops of Exeter before the Norman Conquest. There is no evidence of a dwelling until the episcopal registers commence in the second half of the 13th century which record that Bishop Bronescombe (1257-80) was present in the manor for several days in each of nine different years. The principal reference to structural work occurs in the will of Bishop Grandisson (1327-69) which states that he obtained the appropriation of the chapel from Rome in 1331/2 and, '... erected convenient and sumptuous buildings there..'. The institution of priests in the chapel in 1373/4 is the first entry in the registers referring directly to the site, but it is not until Bishop Lacy (1420-55) that it is regularly mentioned as a place where official acts were undertaken. The registers of subsequent bishops have not been published, but a survey undertaken after the bishopric of Redman (1495-1501) states that the buildings had become ruinous. In 1550 Edward VI compelled Bishop Vesey to dispose of the manor which was conveyed to Richard Duke through Sir Andrew Dudley. Subsequent changes in ownership have been traced down to the present. In the mid 18th century Dean Milles recorded that the site was badly ruined. In 1795 the site was being used as a farmyard with the inner court containing barns and linhays. It was at this time that the ruins were first described as a palace rather than a manor. At the time of the 1840 Tithe Map the site was in use as an orchard, and later reverted to more active farm use which continues at present. The standing remains are listed Grade II-star. The chapel and the south wall of the inner court were consolidated in 1987 following a structural survey which included a plan and partial description of most of the recognisable medieval features on the site. Some reconstruction was undertaken on the buttresses and tops of the walls of the chapel. Other limited excavations and clearance work have been undertaken in recent years. (Scheduling Report)
Summary
The Bishop's Palace at Chudleigh is a scheduled medieval episcopal residence (later partly ruined and adapted) on the southern fringe of Chudleigh; surviving remains include a vaulted lower storey, fragments of range walls, enclosure walls and low earthworks within the area now partly occupied by Palace Farm 1.
Key references and what they contain
Legal status and protection
The site is a Scheduled Monument and parts are Grade II* listed, reflecting its national importance and the presence of upstanding medieval masonry and buried archaeological deposits 34.
Practical access and documents to consult
Suggested next steps for research
Bishop's Palace Timeline
Today, the site of the former bishop's palace occupies an east/west orientated site under the care of English Heritage and mainly falling within the modern boundaries of Palace Farm (c1695) in Rock Road, a little to the south of the town.
Documentary evidence regarding the palace is at best sketchy. We know it was established about the year 1080 and existed as an episcopal rural residence until no later than the 1530s, a period of some 550 years. Any old building that survives today will have seen many architectural styles pass it by and usually the structure exhibits an amalgamation due to the tastes and needs of the occupiers. Records say little about the palace and what we can imagine is that what was first erected in 1080 bore little resemblance to that which was standing in the 1530s. At the beginning the buildings would have exhibited much Norman work – the Conquest having occurred only fourteen years before – and later with successive bishops their tastes and styles would have been incorporated.
All we really have today are the writings of Mary Jones (an extract follows at the end of the timeline) who herself would have only known the ruins, some of which have remained for us today. The palace witnessed high and low times through its existence and perhaps the high times can best be summarised by three of Exeter's bishops:
Bishop Walter De Stapledon (1308-1326)
Bishop John Grandisson (1327-1369) and
Bishop Edmund Lacy (1420-1455)
The timeline that follows begins 171 years before the palace was established in order to give and idea of those distant times, of the events prior to its foundation and how the lands at Chudleigh became originally linked with the church and bishops of Exeter.
909The See of Crediton, Devon was created out of the See of Sherborne, Dorset. The 'see' being the seat of the bishop, in other words his cathedral.
932English King Athelstan founded an abbey church at Exeter and dedicated it to SS Mary and Peter. It is probable that from this date the lands at Chudleigh came into the possession of the abbey church having previously been held by the king. Most of the richest lands in Devon had previously been taken by the Saxon kings when they conquered Devon in the seventh century. Athelstan died in the year 939 and was buried in Malmesbury Abbey.
1001The year of one of the raids on South Devon by the Danes. Although there are no specific records relating to Chudleigh we know that they sailed up the Teign Estuary, burnt the royal village of Kingsteignton, and plundered it and many other manors nearby. It was on this occasion too that the Danes besieged the city of Exeter and two years later returned to the city and on that occasion destroyed the abbey church.
1019Danish King Canute endowed a new abbey church at Exeter to replace the one destroyed by Sweyn and confirmed by charter their lands and privileges to the monks. Canute died in the year 1035.
1050Bishop Leofric moved the See from Crediton to Exeter after seeking permission of King and Pope. His reasoning was that Exeter was more easily defended, already having its encompassing walls, built originally by the Romans. It was with his episcopate that Exeter first assumed the rank of a cathderal city.
1066The Norman Invasion of England – Battle of Hastings 14 October 1066. Feudal System introduced. All land and property formerly held by the Saxons passed to King William, Norman landlords, bishops and soldiers.
1072Bishop Leofric died and was replaced by a Norman bishop.
1080Bishop Osbern Fitz-Osbern, a Norman by birth, was educated in England and became bishop in 1072. The Chudleigh palace was established about the year 1080. Little documentation survives describing the palace but from what little remains we can be sure the property was quite substantial also including a chapel dedicated to St Michael. The palace was used for official business, as a rural retreat and as a convenient stopping place when the bishop was undertaking visitations at Chudleigh and other nearby parishes.
1086King William (the Conqueror) instigates the Domesday Survey. The survey includes TAINTONA in the Hundred of Esseministra (modern Exminster). This holding is described as including'Chudleigh Park (the lordship) with the Town and Manor of Chudleigh, including Bishopsteignton, Luton, Combe and Ashwell, West Teignmouth and Teignmouth Courtney'. The enclosed acreage was 4770 and its 'value by weight' was stated to be £24. The Manor of Chudleigh, one of many in the south-west belonging to Bishop Osbern would have been given to Exeter Abbey by one of the Saxon kings long before. When the cathedral was refounded out of the abbey in 1050 its endowments passed to the Bishops of Exeter.
1100At this point the bishop ruled over all territory between Somerset and Land's End. His estate included rural palaces at Paignton, Bishop's Tawton and Bishop's Teignton in addition to the one here at Chudleigh. Only the king and Baldwin the Sheriff had greater estates than the bishop in Devon. Bishop Osbern died in 1103.
1107Bishop William Warelwast, nephew of William the Conqueror. It was this bishop who commenced work (1112) on the cathedral that can be seen in Exeter today with its magnificent Norman transeptal towers. The old Saxon abbey church was demolished in about 1133. Records are silent as to whether he made any alterations to his palace here. Warelwast died in 1136.
1161–1184Bishop Bartholomew Iscanus, a native of Exeter and of humble birth. Documents of his period mention the bishop's park and wood at Chudleigh.
1225Bishop William Brewer (or Bruere) was bishop from 1224 to 1244 and immediately prior to the bishopric he had served as Precentor of Exeter Cathedral. Although not immediately relevant to the history of the palace it was in the year 1225 that the bishop granted the advowson (the right to appoint a vicar) to the precentor of Exeter Cathedral. In those far-off days the precentor, primarily the leader of the cathedral choir, was also next in line to the dean and involved with numerous administration duties connected with the cathedral and the lands and properties that were held by the See. The holding of the advowson entitled the precentor to receive the greater vicarial tithes. This right remained with the precentor until 1547.(see also the entry for year 1282 below)
1259Bishop Walter Bronescombe, a native of Exeter, bacame bishop in 1257. On 6 November 1259 he dedicated Chudleigh parish church, having spent ten days at the palace that year. He died in 1280 and his tomb is preserved in the Lady Chapel at Exeter Cathedral.
1282Bishop Peter Quivil (Bishop of Exeter 1280-1291). At this date the Chudleigh manorial rights were annexed to the precentor and as part of this he was granted a house at Ugbrooke. In return he was responsible for collecting the rents and fees due from the manor inhabitants that were payable to the See.
1309The year after being instituted as bishop, Walter de Stapledon acquired from Edward II a charter to hold a market and fairs. This effectively turned Chudleigh from a village to a medieval borough. It was this bishop that was responsible for the construction of the magnificent bishop's throne at the cathedral. It was constructed from oak taken from his woods at Chudleigh.
1317Bishop Stapledon spent'some weeks'at Chudleigh.
1321Under Bishop Stapledon, nine ordinations were carried out at the palace chapel (dedicated to St Michael). Bishop Stapledon was murdered by a mob in London in 1326. His body was returned to Exeter Cathedral and his tomb may be found on the north side of the high altar. Mary Jones (1875) adds these notes:
'In the register of Bishop Stapledon, we find the rental of the manor, in the year 1308, to be £17 4s 51/2d. About this time the woollen trade was carried on extensively, and the Fulling Mill paid 20s. per annum to the see of Exeter. For the collection of rents and other business connected with the manor, the precentor was provided with a house and certain lands at Ugbrooke, by the liberality of the bishops. In the will of Hugh de Hyckeling then precentor, dated Angust 8, 1415 and proved 1416, there is a bequest of money and of his live stock at Ugbrooke'.
1327Bishop John Grandisson has sometimes been called the most magnificent prelate who ever filled the see. Born at Hereford he was nominated directly by the by the pope and consicrated by him at Avignon. His tenure as bishop, forty-two years (1327-1369) is considered to be one of the most memorable chapters in the history of Exeter. From his published registers (3 vols) it can be seen that he first came to stay at his Chudleigh residence on 28 June 1328 and stayed for the next eight days. He was responsible for significant architectural works at the cathedral and for making improvements to the piped cathedral water supply (1346-48). He founded Kings School, Ottery St Mary and financially supported many parish churches in the south-west. The Black Death (1348-1349) occurred during his episcopy and the bishop fixed his residence at Chudleigh for the whole duration of the plague. Chudleigh is recorded as losing one incumbent at that time. Again from his register we can see that Bishop Grandisson spent the last twenty years of his life at his Chudleigh residence. His will, dated at Chudleigh, on 8th September, 1368, was proved ten days after his death, an event that occurred on 15th July (the Feast of St. Swithin), 1369, in the 77th year of his age. He bequeathed the two largest bells in the palace belfry to the parish church. He was buried in the chapel of St Radegunde in the cathedral but his tomb was desecrated at the time of Elizabeth I.
1420–1455Bishop Edmund Lacy is described as'A working diocesan bishop'. According to Mary Jones it is 'tradition' that ascribes the town leat or pot water to Bishop Lacy that ran from Oxencombe Spring to the palace. However it seems reasonable to assume that the work was first instigated in the latter 1320s by Bishop Grandisson, particularly as he had been involved in such a scheme at Exeter (see above).
1447Bishop Lacy appointed'a custodian of the park and bailiff of the manor of Chudleigh for life'. Edward Pyry, who was keeper of the park was appointed with a salary of 12d. a week.
1455Bishop Lacy died at the Chudleigh palace (he was buried in Exeter Cathedral). Mary Jones (1875) adds:'following his death his coat of arms was set up in the east wall of the north aisle of Chudleigh Church. This bishop was highly esteemed for his sanctity, "there was a great resort of pilgrims to his tomb, at which many miracles were pretended to have been performed." It may be worth notice that this bishop entertained Henry VI., in the year 1451, for eight days at his palace in Exeter – the charges being borne equally by the Church and City.'
1519–1551Bishop John Veysey was born at Sutton Coldfield, Warwickshire in about 1462 and he was in his early 50s when consecrated as Bishop of Exeter. During the winter of 1519 Bishop Veysey made the visitation of his diocese, he was at Bodmin on 24 February 1520 and a month later held an ordination in Exeter Cathedral and also another at St. Michael's Chapel at the Chudleigh palace on Easter eve, 7 April 1520. In the early part of his episcopate, he spent a portion of every year in his diocese, but at a later period his absences were long and frequent, and its management was left to grand vicars and coadjutor Bishops. In 1521 his reigster records that he was spending time at'my manor of Old Windsor'.
1523It is recorded that the palace buildings were in a state of disrepair and neglect, this seems to be due to Veysey's absence from the area. For example we know that on 30 March 1533, he officiated with the Bishops of Lincoln and St. Asaph at the consecration of Thomas Crammer. At the time of Veysey's bishopric the See of Exeter was possessed of twenty-two manors and fourteen well furnished residences. All were taken away at the time of the Reformation except the Exeter Palace. However even though valuable manors were given up he reserved a annual rent-charge of £42 per annum on the manor of Chudleigh and that annuity continued to be paid to the Bishops of Exeter by the Cliffords for many years afterward.
1533–1551Bishop Veysey spent little time in Exeter or Devon in this period and the management of his See was left to others. These persons likely had little interest in Chudleigh and in some part likely contributed to its lack of use and neglect. From 1546 the manor was no longer held by the Bishop and no doubt the lessor and later owners as non-residents (see below) were only interested in the income they could derive from it and likely never set foot here at all.
1546The Manor of Chudleigh was leased to Edward Seymour, the 1st Duke of Somerset, this included the old palace and grounds.
1550The Manor of Chudleigh was leased to Thomas Bridges of Tangley, Oxon. This included the palace, town and park.
1551In this year Bishop Veysey was deprived of his See and was granted a net pension of £485 9s. 3d. Retiring to his birthplace, he spent his income in works of charity. He rebuilt the aisles of the parish church of Sutton Coldfield and added to its ornaments; he erected a market-place there, paved the town, re-edified the street, defrayed the cost of two stone bridges, gave a meadow for the benefit of poor widows, founded a grammar-school and introduced the manufacture of "Devonshire kersies". On the death of Edward VI in 1553 he was reinstated as Bishop of Exeter. However he soon returned to Sutton Coldfield and died there on 23 October 1554. He was buried in the parish church there.
1597The old palace and lands were purchased by James Eastchurch of Lawell from Thomas Bridges, the grandson of Sir Thomas Bridges who at some stage in the interim forty-seven years purchased the property having originally only held the leasehold.
From Polwhele'sHistory of Devon(1793-1806):"The chapel at the barton of Place (it is said) belonging to the Wolcombes. The walls of which were marble, was sold to neighbouring farmers, in order to be burnt to lime."
Note that the marble to which Polwhele refers was unlikely to have been true marble but the local limestone that could be worked to a high polished finish.
A Rev John Swete watercolour of the ruins dating to 1794
The same view of the ruins pictured in 1808
Mary Jones (1875) writes:
This Palace was a favourite residence of the bishops of Exeter before the Reformation. In its episcopal chapel, dedicated to St. Michael, many ordinations were held, and many acts of the bishops performed. In the Chapel of the Palace, Bishop Lacy admitted one Thomas Cornysshe to the profession of a hermit.
As fish formed a regular article of diet, the establishment had its fishpond which was situated in Pond Meadow near the building. It is only a few years since that the ancient flour mill was pulled down, and a new house built on its site. The flour mill was the necessary accompaniment to ecclesiastical establishments, as the early bishops and abbots had frequently to supply the wants of the poor, as well as to provide for their own numerous retinue.
The burial ground lay in the eastern corner of the orchard, where some skeletons were dug up when the road to the quarry was recently widened. A well and spring, in the vicinity of the Palace, still retain the names of Bishop's Well and St. Mary's Spring.
All that remains of the Palace are a few crumbling walls, some steps, and a portion of three apartments arched over with heavy stonework. These are now thatched and converted into cellars for the use of the farm. In a line with the Palace, and separated from it by an open area, was the Chapel. These buildings were connected on the west by a high wall which enclosed the area. A corner of the wall of some height and great thickness is all that now remains of the Chapel.
The most perfect part of the ruins are the boundary walls; that towards the south-west, has in it some arched loopholes at regular distances.
Visitors to the old palace should be aware that the ruins lie on private land and prior permission should be sought before attempting a visit. However, a general view of the site may be had from Rock Road, the lane that passes by on its northern side.


Chudleigh Bishops Palace
Also known as, or recorded in historical documents as;
Chudele
In the civil parish of Chudleigh.
In the historic county of Devonshire.
Modern Authority of Devon.
1974 county of Devon.
Medieval County of Devon.
OS Map Grid Reference: SX86607887
Latitude 50.59851° Longitude -3.60364°
Chudleigh Bishops Palace has been described as a probablePalace, and also as a probableFortified Manor House.
There are masonry ruins/remnantsremains.
This site is ascheduled monumentprotected by law.
This is a Grade 2*listed buildingprotected by law*.
Description
The Bishop's Palace at Chudleigh was intensively occupied for a significant period and the principal surviving building is unusual in its design in that the provision of vaults and mural passages indicate a dwelling of strength and defensible potential. The buried remains appear to be extensive and unharmed by subsequent activity.
The Bishop's Palace is situated on the southern fringe of the village of Chudleigh, on ground sloping downwards from the limestone outcrop of Chudleigh rocks to the south. The monument includes the upstanding and buried remains of a palace of the bishops of Exeter in use from the second half of the 13th century until 1550. The visible remains exist in the form of a number of ruined and adapted stone structures together with a series of low earthworks. They include the remains of a perimeter wall enclosing a roughly triangular area, 171m by 130m, which contains parts of at least three substantial buildings, one of which is almost totally enclosed by modern farm structures. The modern farm buildings and farm yard lying to the north of the monument are not included in the scheduling. The walls are constructed of random rubble in local limestone and in places include red sandstone. Limestone is utilised for ashlar work and architectural detail. The principal remains, which are Listed Grade II-star, are those of a substantial building close to the west side of the enclosure, terraced into the hillslope to the south by at least 2.3m, and extending out from the terrace by over 12m. On its east and west sides are modern lean-to structures, and the first floor is a modern addition. The ground floor survives as two vaulted rooms with the vestigial remains of upper apartments indicated by the overall height of the walls of some 5m. Its existing length is 10m, but the entire eastern end has been removed. The vaults are aligned east/west, with sandstone ceilings, 3m high at the centres. The larger northern room is 6.8m by 5m, with a blocked window in the west wall. In its north west corner there is a spiral stair, with two steps remaining, partly housed in an external angle turret. There is a blocked external door in the north wall, and in the south east corner another blocked door apparently leading to the southern vault. All the openings leading from this room have vaulted ceilings. In the outer part of the ruined wall forming the north east corner of the building there are the remains of the end of a low vaulted passage. The southern room has a cobble floor and is 3m in width, narrowed to 2.6m at the western end by an offset in the south wall. Its original length is in excess of 3.8m as the east wall appears to be a later blocking. High in the west wall is a narrow window, opening through a wall of about 3m thickness. The south west corner of the room contains a narrow opening, apparently a borrowed-light window, for a mural (wall) passage contained within the offset in the south wall. The passage is some 3m in length and widens at both ends with curved walls. The south end is deeper than the floor of the room by at least 0.45m. The roof becomes higher to the west and is stepped, possibly constituting the underneath of a mural stair contained within the wall thickness. The passage continues at its west end, appearing to turn north behind the west wall of the vault. A small hole has been broken through the west wall north of the window to reveal a completely enclosed chamber of some 0.9m width, but unknown height and length. The first floor of the building would have opened directly onto the higher ground to the south. The walls are in general between 1.2m to 1.6m in thickness, constructed in limestone and sandstone. There is a chamfered plinth on the west wall and either two buttresses, or the remains of two further walls, on the north side. To the west, the space between this building and the perimeter wall appears to have been enclosed on the north side by a wall extending from the perimeter wall towards the stair turret, with an access-way adjacent to the turret. Approximately 42m to the south east of the vaulted building are the free- standing remains of the southern end of a building, of at least 9.5m width, terraced into the ground to the south. Part of the south wall survives to a height of about 3.8m internally and has a string course beneath the remains of a stepped triangular coping which indicates that the eastern half of the structure was not roofed. The east wall was lower and had an arched opening near the wall corner. In the western half there are the remains of a vault 2.95m in width separated from the courtyard by a wall. The length of the building is uncertain, but a distinct earthwork platform extends for some 18m to the north. Approximately 40m to the north east of the vaulted building are the free- standing remains of the outer wall of a building surviving to a height of about 2.4m and length of over 4.2m. The wall has a substantial rectangular offset bonded into its internal west face, with the remains of a window to the north side of this feature. The perimeter wall survives on the west side of the palace for a length of over 120m. To the north, at the farmhouse, it is incorporated into the back of the garages. The garages, except for the perimeter wall at the rear, are excluded from the scheduling. About halfway between the garages and the vaulted building the wall is interrupted by a square, tower-like structure, projecting to the west. The wall extends to the south beyond the vaulted building to become lost in the hedge-line. At no point does it retain a coping; the highest surviving section, 2.7m internally, occurs opposite the vaulted building where the ground is terraced. Between the tower and the terrace the wall contains putlog holes (for scaffolding), and has four small, deeply splayed, arched loops, in random rubble, that narrow at the outer face to 60cm by 7cm. There is evidence of a former opening to the immediate north of the tower. A section of the wall is visible along the southern perimeter of the palace where it acts as a retaining wall to the higher land to the south, surviving to a height of about 0.6m above the terrace. On the eastern side the only visible remains are an isolated section some 8m in length and 2m high, engulfed within the hedge some 9m south of the stables. The earthworks are more distinct in the upper, southern end, of the enclosure. Apart from some more obvious terraces, most of the earthworks are amorphous, and probably represent building debris. Although the manor of Chudleigh appears to have belonged to the bishops of Exeter before the Norman Conquest, the first reference to episcopal property in the parish occurs in a charter of Bishop Bartholomew (1161-84). There is no reference to a dwelling until the episcopal registers commence in the second half of the 13th century which record that Bishop Bronescome (1257-80) was present in the manor for several days in almost every year of his bishopric. The first reference to official business being undertaken occurs in 1321 when Bishop Stapeldon (1307-26) conducted an ordination in the chapel. A hall is referred to in 1350 in the bishopric of Grandisson (1326-69), and a chancellery in the bishopric of Brantyngham (1370-94). More importantly, in 1379 Brantyngham obtained a licence to crenellate, the only such licence for an episcopal manor in Devon. The register of Bishop Lacy (1420-55) contains the most abundant references to the structure in which the Register's chamber, new lower chamber, parlour, and a chapel or oratory adjoining the great chapel, are referred to. Chudleigh appears to have been one of the most popular rural houses with successive bishops spanning 150 years: Stapeldon, Grandisson, Brantyngham, Stafford (1395-1419), and Lacy, all being in residence for significant periods. Bishop Lacy died at Chudleigh. The registers of subsequent bishops have not been published, but a survey undertaken after the bishopric of Redman (1495-1501) states that the buildings were in need of essential repair. In 1550, Edward VI compelled Bishop Vesey to dispose of the manor, which was conveyed to Thomas Brydges. In 1598 it passed to Thomas Hunt, and was sold by that family in 1695 to the Cliffords who retained ownership until recently. The present farmhouse, a Listed Building Grade II, has no parts earlier than the late 17th century. The site was called Palace Farm in the late 18th century, at which time the area of the ruins was utilised as an orchard. This is the first reference to the site as a palace rather than a manor. At that time it was recorded that an arched gateway was in existence in the garden of Palace Cottage. In the mid 19th century it was recorded that burials were disturbed in the eastern corner of the orchard when the road to the quarry was widened. The freestanding remains and the perimeter wall are Listed Grade II-star. (Scheduling Report)
Remains of Bishop's Palace. Medieval. Local grey limestone rubble, partly roofed over with corrugated iron on trusses with a 1950's date. The scheduled site suggests extensive remains below ground. The most substantial remains above ground consist of a partly 2-storey block incorporating walling which continues as the west boundary wall of the garden in front of Palace Farm. The plan of this block includes, at ground floor level, 2 vaults, 1 with a rounded and 1 with a pointed arch. At the north end these vaults are completed by a section of wall (probably at one time external) with a well-finished plinth that rises at the west end. The wall has a blocked, deeply-splayed arched window and the remnants of a stone newel stair. To the north of this wall and parallel to it, a second section of wall extends as re garden boundary wall, and contains several deeply splayed slit windows, mostly blocked. The relationship between the surviving remains above ground and what may be below ground remains conjectural. The Bishop of Exeter had selected a site in Chudleigh for a rural palace as early as 1080 and the "See's ownership is confirmed some hundred years later in an undated charter of Bishop Bartholomew (1165 -1184)" (Crockett). In 1550 Bishop Veysey was obliged to alienate the properties and rights pertaining to Chudleigh which were dispersed into secular ownership. The building above ground is clearly part of a site of major historical and archaeological interest. (Listed Building Report)
The ruins of the Bishop's Palace at Chudleigh and its associated earthworks were surveyed in March 1999 by the RCHME Exeter Office. A large scale drawing and interpretation of the upstanding ruins were completed at the same time by Exeter Archaeology. (PastScape


Summary
The Bishop c Palace at Chudleigh is a nationally important site although only afew ruined
features and low earthworks now survive. The core of the palace is probably the impressive
though extensively robbed vaulted lower storey building with a ruined, much altered
superstructure, located on the west of the site. Nearby are the fragmentary remains of three
free-standing walls, which are parts of the medieval range of buildings. Elements of an
enclosure wall also survive. The earthworks are visible as levelled stances with associated
amorphous low banks and traces of agricultural activity. These earthworks indicate much
surface disturbance but also suggest the pot entialfor the survival offootings andfoundations
of structures, especially in areas where the soil cover is quite deep. A long standing
requirement to fully record this scheduled monument was fulfilled when Exeter Archaeology
was commissioned to undertake a measured drawing of the standing structures in February -
March 1999. The RCHME Exeter office completed a 1:500 scale survey of the ruins and the
earthworks during this period
DEVON
Fig. 1. Chudleigh.
Location map
ARCHAEOLOGICAL HISTORY AND CARTOGRAPHIC EVIDENCE
The historical background of the site is set out succinctly in the English Heritage Schedule
Entry dated 1996. The palace has a distinguished history as one of the nine rural houses in
Devon used by the bishops of Exeter at the end of the Middle Ages (Tapley-Soper 1942-6). A
licence to crenellate the Episcopal manor was granted in 1379 and the manor was disposed of
by Bishop Veysey in 1550 on the orders of Edward VI.
In his Illustrated Joumals (1789 -
1800) Swete records the ruin of an Episcopal seat in an
orchard of a farm called Palace. His sketch of the 'Episcopal Palace near Chudleigh' is
however difficult to reconcile with the surviving ruins. It is worth noting that Swete's
drawings of the Bishop's Palace at nearby Bishopsteignton contain errors of detail and
omission (Laithwaite 1989).
/
/ -
•
Chudleig/'
iv
2. ( l:ruIIeiI:
in/ its en ir;n
Chudleigh
Rocks
Palace
Farm
/
I
• Palace Mill Farm
0
200m
Ihe 1838 Tithe Map depicts the surviving part of the palace as a dotted outline much as it is
today (the copy of the Tithe Map in the Exeter Record Office for this portion of Chudleigh is
damaged). The Apportionment describes the field in which the ruins stand as orchard along
with its neighbours to the north and east. The field to the south, called Chudleigh Rock is
designated as quarries. The pasture field to the west is named Third Backsides. A house,
lw;id tiaek. r natl.
yard and its outhouses are depicted where Palace Farm now stands. An adjacent enclosed
huwti inni h;ttelv bcnnd the \vet cit naire
III
inc ntted that a dfl and a 'priii in the vlelnht\ nt the paaee 111I retain the name
l3ishops well and St Mary's spring. She also noted that the principal entrance to the palace
was through an arched gateway about the site' of the garden of Palace Cottage and that this
gateway was taken down in living memory (Jones 1852).
The Ordnance Survey 1:2500 scale first and second editions, dated 1888 and 1905
respectively, share an identical depiction of the site: the palace ruin is drawn as a rectangle,
the three free-standing walls are depicted as well as elements of the perimeter wall. Palace
farmhouse has expanded in size from the house and yard shown in 1838.
N OVERVIEW OF THE SITE
The undulating site which lies at 61 m above OD overlooks most of the town of Chudleigh
and it is located on the southern fringe of the settlement. It occupies the fairly steep north
facing slopes of a major limestone outcrop known as Chudleigh Rocks and it has panoramic
view s on all hut the south side.
Fig 3. Ordnance The limestone sub-strata is most probably flawed and faulted here as it is elsewhere on the outcrop as evidenced in the many abandoned quarry faces. No exposed limestone bedrock is
1:2500 scale, 1888 visible although in places boulders and stones can be detected below the turf. The slope is covered by fertile soil which occurs in varying depths across the area. No flowing water in the form of a stream or spring is evident on the site (or on any of the available maps) but this is to be expected given the nature of the sub-strata and also the extensive quarries located to the south and east which may have effected the water table. A strongly flowing stream called the Kate Brook lies in the deep valley to the east. The palace ruin and the three widely spaced free-standing walls (which might once have been
linked or otherwise connected) are the only surviving above ground evidence of what must have been an impressive range of medieval buildings. They stand within a sub-triangular shaped parcel of land of just over one hectare in area, which is now sub-divided into paddocks of permanent pasture. Whether this land parcel constitutes the extent of the original palace
grounds is uncertain. It is now enclosed to the north-east by a modem housing estate; to the
south-east by a massive, disused, quarry; to the south by a bungalow with an adjacent
substantial, abandoned quarry and to the west by a pasture field itself sub-divided into
paddocks with houses beyond. The fact that the area is now 'hemmed in' by housing estates
and abandoned quarries renders the landscape context of the site difficult to interpret but it is
not unreasonable to suggest that the palace grounds may once have extended further to the
north-east towards Palace Mill and perhaps also eastwards to the Kate Brook
4.
The site is now demarcated by either substantial and uncapped stone walls or stony banks.
The following description of the boundaries is based on the visible evidence although most of
the features are hidden under dense vegetation or ivy growth. The majority of the west side
has a well constructed perimeter wall. It is uncapped, between 0.8m and 0.9m wide and on
average 1.8m high. At least five splayed arched loops are extant although some are blocked; a
possible sixth window can also be identified along with other indents in the wall. This
impressive wall does not share the same orientation as the line of the adjacent palace ruins but
it is probably a precinct wall. Towards the south-west corner of the site the western boundary
comprises a 1.2m wide stony hedge bank which may overlie the foundations of a wall. This
wall appears to cut through the earthworks visible on its west side and although some are
clearly of natural origin there is a hint of a continuity between the slopes on each side of the
well. Ground surface levels have in some places been significantly raised perhaps by the
addition of imported soil.
Much of the southern boundary is composed of a fairly crudely built and repaired stone
revetment which retains the rising ground to the south, here occupied by a bungalow with
numerous 'shanty' outhouses and enclosures. The revetment is of mixed quality -
both
drystone and mortared random rubble construction -
and it is a maximum 2.Om high in places
but elsewhere it averages I .4m high. It exhibits numerous repairs and rebuilds and for the
most part does not represent a well-constructed perimeter wall. The upper part of a vertical
mortared wall was discovered during the digging of a cesspit adjacent to the bungalow in the
1960s (Boulton, pers comm). It seems likely therefore that the southern boundary of the site
follows more or less the existing line but that the crude revetment hides part of the original
wall.
The present eastern extent of the site is now defined by an uncapped wall which sinuously
negotiates the fairly steep hillslope. It is 0.5m wide, a maximum 1.8m high but on average
I .3m high, of mortared random rubble construction. Beyond this wall is a narrow footpath
with, immediately to the east, a precipitous vertical face of an extensive limestone quarry.
The footpath has been worn down to the limestone bedrock and the depth of adjacent soil
cover is approximately 0.5m. The authenticity of this wall as the eastern boundary of the
palace grounds is open to question because some earthworks appear to extend beyond it and
also it is much thinner than the perimeter wall marking the western side of the site. The 1838
Tithe Map depicts a slightly straighter wall positioned more or less on the same line, however
the later editions of the OS maps show two parallel sinuous walls with an inter mural footpath
and an orchard -
which apparently predates the deep quarry-beyond. The date of this now
abandoned quarry is uncertain it is not depicted on the Tithe Map or on the 19th or 20th
century Ordnance Survey maps.
On the northern side of the site a short length of what appears to be part of the perimeter wall
is an uncapped random rubble wall some 1.8m high and 0.8m thick. Elsewhere a 1.2m wide
stony hedge bank forms the boundary with a tarmac road beyond; this was widened before
1838 to facilitate access to Palace Quarry (located to the east across the Kate Brook). Beyond
this road the area is occupied by a housing estate built in the late 1970s and early 1980s.
5.
The Bishop's Palace, Chudleigh
THE RUINS
The remains of the palace comprise an impressive lower storey vaulted building with the vestiges of a much altered superstructure. Also, to the east, three free-standing walls which are probably the fragmentary remains of associated buildings. One wall is
identified by Jones (1852) as the remains of the chapel dedicated to St Michael.
These structures and parts of the perimeter wall have been measured and drawn by Exeter
Archaeology.
TUE EARTH WORKS
The site has either been intensively occupied or farmed for hundreds of years and some of thisactivity is indicated by the earthworks. Given that the hillslope is probably composed of a
faulted and flawed limestone sub-strata the origin and function of the earthworks must be
interpreted with caution. It is however clear that the contour-following slopes, even if they
are natural features, have been graded or refashioned during at least one phase in the
occupation of the site. Also some linear slopes are the result of the destruction of, and stone
robbing from, various buildings.
Prior to its present use as paddocks the majority of the site was planted and replanted with
orchard trees over a period of at least two hundred years. The few surviving orchard trees
were cleared in the 1980s but numerous shallow depressions (on average 1.0m across)
indicate the locations of some of the trees. A number of these depressions have associated low
turf-covered and spread mounds which are clearly upcast heaps, whilst some depressions
occur within other similar mounds. When some new orchard trees were planted in the 1950s
the opportunity was used to dig the pits deeper than necessary to "search for buried features"
(Boulton, pers comm); this almost certainly accounts for the presence of many of these low
mounds.
The RCHME survey reveals a number of linear slopes which appear to sub-divide the site
into distinct parcels: some suggest the presence of building stances, others, enclosures or
plots.
Three well defined levelled areas form the western part of the site. The upper, in the south
west corner is bounded by the perimeter revetment to the south, the 0.7m high linear slopes
against the hedge bank to the west and I .2m high slopes to the east. Apart from numerous
'tree holes' and a few low amorphous mounds this area which slopes very slightly to the north
is featureless; it may have once been a garden or plot. It is separated from its neighbour to the
north by a broad spread slope up to l.lm high, partly marked by a modern paddock fence.
The adjacent, lower levelled area also has some 'tree holes' and mounds visible. The footings
of a wall diagonally bisect the area but no other earthworks are perceptible. The west side is
defined by the enclosure wall, the east and north sides by a pronounced scam up to I .2m high.
The eastern part comprises a well-defined building platform associated with the free-standing
ruined structure and its adjacent infilled and roofless sub-terranean vault. The eastern slopes
adjacent to the ruins are very ragged -
most probably the result of stone robbing. The north
part of this area backs on to the remains of the palace at first floor level : the uneven floor of
the vaults is some 2.8m below. The present retaining wall on the north side is composed
7.
partly of a 1.6m high mortared stone wall (one of the free-standing walls depicted by the OS),
partly of a concrete block wall up to 2.8m high, and partly (within the present building) of a
substantial wall of random rubble construction.
The impression gained on the ground is that part of this level area behind the palace ruins has
been created by infill against the vaulted structure and that the original building may once
have extended further south into this area, perhaps only at the first floor level: The occupants
of any building here would have enjoyed commanding and panoramic views across the town
and surrounding countryside.
The surviving palace ruins are 'encased' in two large corrugated iron buildings (post- 1955 in
origin). A tall 'tower' of masonry, part of the upper floors of the palace (photographed by the
Ordnance Survey in 1953) was dismantled in the 1960s (Boulton, pers comm) and there have
since been numerous alterations and repairs to the remains of this superstructure.
The lower of the three level areas, partially occupied by the palace ruins, has been heavily
disturbed by agricultural activity and drainage works. There is evidence of levelling visible as
surface debris and the sharp linear scarp along its northern fringe. To the east this level area is
demarcated by a low wall 0.6m high of concrete blocks built on stone footings of uncertain
age.
The hillslope which falls away from the palace on the north side, once crossed by an access
track from the farmhouse ( OS 1:2500 scale map 1955), is now occupied by a small paddock
and the smoothed lawned garden.
To the west, the perimeter wall which has the curious sub-square projection.is pierced by a
field gate which might or might not occupy the site of an original passage although no gap is
depicted on the 1888 OS map. There is also a blocked 2.0 in wide gap in the wall within the
corrugated building structure to the north west of the palace ruins. To the north the enclosure
wall is pierced by a modern garden gate 0.8m wide.
The free-standing ruin located to the north-east of the palace seems to lie roughly east to west
and apparently shares a similar orientation to the axis of the palace. No foundations are
visible and the earthworks associated with the ruin present an inconclusive picture: there is no
clear evidence of a building platform however extensive stone robbing has most probably
disturbed the earthworks. The low and very spread earthworks to the north of the ruin offer a
very fragmentary and confused pattern of land use in this paddock. Numerous tree holes and
low mounds are evident, these coupled with some low sinuous earthworks indicate much
surface activity and dumping. A number of linear scarps which extend under the field hedge
on the north-east side have been cut by the road. There is no trace of a planned layout of paths
or plots in this gently sloping area.
The eastern part of the site is composed of slight level stances of uncertain origin and function
located on the fairly steep natural slope, some apparently overlaid by the eastern boundary
wall. Jones (1852) notes that the burying ground of the chapel lay in the eastern comer of the
orchard and that some skeletons were dug up 'when the road to the quarry was recently
widened'.
ON
The level area in the south east corner of the enclosure is partially embanked but again its
function is unclear.
A series of at least six substantial linear ridges extend up and down (rather than along or
across) the hillslope within a natural fold in the slope. They appear to belong to an
agricultural phase in the life of the site. Whether they represent ridges created for tree
planting or crops is not clear, however they appear to be of some antiquity as at least one is
overlaid by the foundations of a ruined wall.
The foundations of this wall comprise limestone boulders and stones follow a very sinuous
route across the site from west to east significantly between two gateways. Its date and
function are not known and it is not depicted on the available maps however it may mark the
line of a track which once either served or crossed the site.
[bJENIJ,5,1[Xi
The location of the palace on the crest of rising ground overlooking the settlement of
Chudleigh must have presented an imposing sight to the travellers of the adjacent ridge route
and also to the occupants of the town (the Chudleigh charter for a market and fair was granted
in 1309).
The parish church is clearly visible across the slight valley to the north of the palace. The link
between these two ecclesiastical sites was probably very strong as indicated in 1368 when
Bishop Grandisson bequeathed 'two large bells of my chapel at Chudleigh to the parish
church'. The origins of both buildings are unknown but the church was dedicated in 1259 and
had further rebuilding works between 1300 and 1350.
The architecture of the church tower, which is unusual in this part of Devon, with its
corbelling, battlements and small windows, looks, according to Pevsner (1989), 13th century
in date. Could the design of this tower have mirrored some elements in the design in the
palace (or visa versa)? Could perhaps parts of the two buildings share similar methods and
dates of construction? Certainly both structures share a common use of imported stone, most
notably the distinctive red sandstone which features not only as quoins in the church tower
and as stones in the vaults of the palace but also as random rubble in both buildings. Its
inclusion in other, later, parts of the fabric of the church suggests that it may also have been
reused. Volcanic trap or basalt probably from the quarries of Dunchideock as well as
limestone have been used in the mouldings and chamfered stone footings in both buildings
(although granite figures prominently in the later mouldings and windows in the church).
The extent of the palace precinct cannot be identified from the visible evidence. The western
wall is probably a precinct wall but it is not clear which, if any, of the other walls or even the
fragments of the free-standing building/walls mark the extent of the enclosure. The function
of the sub-square structure in the west wall is not clear. It does not appear to be a tower, as has
been suggested, but it is situated at a distinct change in the alignment of the wall. This west
wall with its slit windows and apparent strength may have been the subject of the licence to
crenellate granted in 1379, rather than the actual buildings. However at the Bishops's Palace
91
at Nettleham in Lincolnshire the licence granted in 1336 was to crenellate the manor and
surround it with a stone wall (Everson eta! 1991).
A leat, which according to tradition (Jones 1852) was built by Bishop Lacey (1420-55),
brought spring water to the palace from the Haldon Hills. It ran via the town where the
townspeople could draw pot water (Chudleigh Guide Book, undated). This leat was cut by the
construction of the Chudleigh by-pass in 1972 and its course through the town has probably
been destroyed by the housing: it is not depicted on the early OS maps. The nearest evidence
of this leat is the infihled 'dipping place' for pot water in Fore Street, near the church. A route
for such a leat can be postulated via Palace Farm and down to Kate Brook but a route to serve
the palace buildings on higher ground would have required a significant embankment or
launder across the shallow valley to the north-west of the farm.
The present road to Palace Farm which descends from the ridgeway route to Chudleigh was
almost certainly the formal approach to the palace grounds.
The site of the arched gateway can no longer be traced although the farmhouse appears to
occupy the ideal position for such a structure. The farm lacks many of the usual barns or farm
outbuildings although in 1888 (OS first edition) some buildings are depicted on the opposite
side of the road.
The enclosed track or road, depicted on the Tithe Map leading up the west (outer) side of the
enclosure wall may be the early access route to the palace enclosure; this might help to
explain the presence of the sub-square structure in this wall. Although most of the track has
been effaced part of its course near the farmhouse is perpetuated as a right of way.
No finds of archaeological significance were discovered during fieldwork but exploratory
digging in the area in the 1950s by local men resulted in some finds being deposited in Exeter
Museum.
FURTHER WORK
A geophysical survey of the area around the standing fabric would most probably reveal
evidence of wall footings and foundations.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Thanks are due to the owner of Palace Farm, Susan Thompson for her help and interest and
also for permission to survey the site. Rob Wilson-North contributed to the discussion.
The archive is held at the NMRC, Kemble Drive, Swindon SN2 2GZ. The plan and report are
RCHME copyright.
1111
BIBLIOGRAPHY
Anon, 1968 A Short Guide to the Church of St Martin and St Mary, Chudleigh, Devon
Anon, undated Chudleigh. Devon: A Guide and History of the Town
English Heritage Schedule Entry 1996. National Monument No. 24838
Boulton, B pers comm The Rock Nursery, Chudleigh.
Cherry, B. & Pevsner, N. 1989 The Buildings Of Devon. 2nd edn, 262
Everson, P. eta! 1991 Change and Continuity: Rural Settlement in Nor/h-West Lincoinshire
129-30.
Gray, 1. 1990 Travels In Georgian Devon: The Illustrated Journals of the Reverend John
Swete 1789-1800 Vol 2
Jones, M. 1852 The History Of Chudleigh, 58 -
63
Laithwaite, M. et al 1989 'The Bishops Palace at Bishopsteignton' Proc. Devon ArchaeoL
Soc. 53-69.
Ordnance Survey Archaeology Division record card : SX 87 NE 6.
Ordnance Survey 1:2500 scale 1st Edition 1888
Ordnance Survey 1:2500 scale 2nd Edition 1905
Ordnance Survey 1:2500 scale dated 1955
Tapley-Soper H. 1942-6 'Palaces of the Bishops of Exeter in the Fifteenth Century'
DCNQ 22, 78-82
Chudleigh Parish Tithe map and Apportionment 1848 Devon Record Office, Exeter
"Totonesium litus"—"the sea-coast ofTotnes".
Brutus is explicitly the grandson, rather than son, of Ascanius; his father is Ascanius' son Silvius.
The magician who predicts great things for the unborn Brutus also foretells he will kill both his parents.
He does so, in the same manner described in the Historia Britonum, and is banished.
Travelling to Greece, he discovers a group of Trojans enslaved there. He becomes their leader, and after a series of battles they defeat the Greek king Pandrasus by attacking his camp at night after capturing the guards.
He takes him hostage and forces him to let his people go. He is given Pandrasus's daughter Ignoge in marriage, and ships and provisions for the voyage, and sets sail.
The Trojans land on a deserted island and discover an abandoned temple toDiana.
After performing the appropriate ritual, Brutus falls asleep in front of the goddess's statue and is given a vision of the land where he is destined to settle, an island in the western ocean inhabited only by a few giants.
After some adventures in north Africa and a close encounter with theSirens, Brutus discovers another group of exiled Trojans living on the shores of the Tyrrhenian Sea, led by the prodigious warriorCorineus.
InGaul, Corineus provokes a war with Goffarius Pictus, king ofAquitaine, after hunting in the king's forests without permission. Brutus's nephew Turonus dies in the fighting, and the city ofToursis founded where he is buried.
The Trojans win most of their battles but are conscious that the Gauls have the advantage of numbers, so go back to their ships and sail for Britain, then calledAlbion.
They land on "Totonesium litus the sea-coast ofTotnes. They meet the giant descendants ofAlbionand defeat them.
Brutus renames the island after himself and becomes its first king. Corineus becomes ruler ofCornwall, which is named after him.
They are harassed by the giants during a festival, but kill all of them but their leader, the largest giantGoemagot, who is saved for a wrestling match against Corineus. Corineus throws him over a cliff to his death. Brutus then founds a city on the banks of theRiver Thames, which he calls Troia Nova, orNew Troy.
The name is in time corrupted toTrinovantum, and the city is later calledLondon.
He creates laws for his people and rules for twenty-four years. After his death he is buried in Trinovantum, and the island is divided between his three sons,Locrinus(England),Albanactus(Scotland) andKamber(Wales).
CHAPTER XXVIII,
TOTNES.
Totnes is the first link in the legendary history of England. Brutus, the Trojan, according to early Welsh and Breton tradition, landed ‘ on the coast of Totnes;’ and in the pages of Geoffrey of Monmouth one may read the full-blown myth, ending in the destruction of the last of the aboriginal giants , Goemagot , by Corinaeus , afterwards Duke of Cornwall. There was a time when all this was deemed purely historical. Totnes, claiming to be the landing-place of Brutus, has yet a traditional Brutus Stone/ on which the Trojan hero is said to have stepped when he landed— a boulder of no great dimensions, well up the main street. Plymouth cherished the belief that the combat between Corinaeus and Goemagot took place upon her Hoe; and so far back as the fifteenth century there were graven in the sward of that eminence two huge figures, popularly supposed to represent the combatants, renewed as need was, and of unknown antiquity. It is quite possible, indeed, that both the Brutus Stone’ of Totnes and the ‘ Gogmagog’ of Plymouth originated with the Gog and Magog of myth speaks of the ‘coast’ of Totnes, and the ‘shore’ of Totnes, and the ‘ port ’ of Totnes, and always with some such qualification. The inference, therefore, is that the name was used by ancient writers as that of a district. It was evidently so employed by Higden in his ‘ Poly-chronicon,’ in quoting the length of Britain as 800 miles, a ‘ Totonesio litore,’ rendered by Trevisa ‘ from the clyf of Totonesse,’ which is really only another name for the Land’s End. Totnes thus seems to be in truth the ancient name for the south-western promontory of England, perhaps a name for Britain itself, in which case we can understand somewhat if the motive that led early etymologists derive Britain from Brute, or Brutus . The myth may be true that an elder name was supplanted, and that it lingered longest in the western promontory. Whether the modern Totnes is nominally the successor of the ancient title, the narrow area into which this vestige of far antiquity has shrunk, may be doubtful, for the word is as capable of a Teutonic derivation as of a Keltic. The last syllable may be the Northern ness, but it may as well be the Keltic , enys= island.’ And so while Tot may be an ‘ enclosure,’ it may equally be the Dod which still exists on the west coast in the name of the Dodman headland — the ‘prominent rock’ (man = maen, a stone). Totnes, therefore, can be read ‘the projecting or prominent island.’ The speculation may be pardoned in dealing with a point of such singular interest. In any case, it seems probable that this story of Brutus the Trojan is not absolute fable, but the traditionary record of the earliest invasion of the land.
Locality PagesLocalityCitation Details
Dean Prior and Buckfastleigh Mine, Dean Prior, South Hams, Devon, England, UK
Huntingdon Mine (Devon Wheal Vor; Avon Consols), Dean Prior, South Hams, Devon, England, UK
Devon Great Elizabeth Mine, Holne, South Hams, Devon, England, UK
Ashburton Umber Works, Ashburton, Teignbridge, Devon, England, UK
Cleft Rock (Haswell Mine; Hazel Mine), Ashburton, Teignbridge, Devon, England, UK
Druid Mine (New Victoria Mine; Arundell Mine), Ashburton, Teignbridge, Devon, England, UK
King of Dart Mine, Ashburton, Teignbridge, Devon, England, UK
Knight of Dart Mine, Ashburton, Teignbridge, Devon, England, UK
Queen of Dart Mine, Ashburton, Teignbridge, Devon, England, UKWhiddon Mine (Whiddon and Brownshill Mine), Ashburton, Teignbridge, Devon, England, UK
Haytor Consols (Hemsworthy Mine), Ilsington, Teignbridge, Devon, England, UK
Caroline Wheal Prosper, West Buckfastleigh, Teignbridge, Devon, England, UK
Runnaford Combe Mine (Combe Mine), West Buckfastleigh, Teignbridge, Devon, England, UK
Wheal Emma, West Buckfastleigh, Teignbridge, Devon, England, UK
Wrey Consols, West Buckfastleigh, Teignbridge, Devon, England, UK
Wheal Calmady, Bridestowe, West Devon, Devon, England, UK
Wheal Fanny (Leawood Mine), Bridestowe, West Devon, Devon, England, UK
Wheal Hamlyn (Wheal Hamblyn), Bridestowe, West Devon, Devon, England, UK
Wheal Conquer, Collacombe Mine (Collacombe Down Mine), Lamerton, West Devon, Devon, England, UK
Coombe Vale Consols (Devon Consols North), Lamerton, West Devon, Devon, England, UK
Wheal Harris, Lifton, West Devon, Devon, England, UK
Wheal Florence, Lydford, West Devon, Devon, England, UK
West Wheal Friendship, Mary Tavy, West Devon, Devon, England, UK
Meldon Mine, Okehampton Hamlets, West Devon, Devon, England, UK
Okehampton Consols, Okehampton Hamlets, West Devon, Devon, England, UK
Wheal Forest, Okehampton Hamlets, West Devon, Devon, England, UK
Sourton Down Consols, Sourton, West Devon, Devon, England, UK
Tor Wood Mines, Sourton, West Devon, Devon, England, UK
Park Valley Mine (Park Mine; Wheal Maria), Spreyton, West Devon, Devon, England, UK
Devon Kapunda Mine (Capunda Mine), Sydenham Damerel, West Devon, Devon, England, UK
Great Wheal Hugo, Sydenham Damerel, West Devon, Devon, England, UK
Wheal Carpenter (West Collacombe Mine), Sydenham Damerel, West Devon, Devon, England, UK
Mineral OccurrencesLocalityMineral(s
)Caroline Wheal Prosper, West Buckfastleigh, Teignbridge, Devon, England, UKⓘCassiterite
Runnaford Combe Mine (Combe Mine), West Buckfastleigh, Teignbridge, Devon, England, UKⓘCassiterite
Wheal Calmady, Bridestowe, West Devon, Devon, England, UKⓘGalena
Wheal Fanny (Leawood Mine), Bridestowe, West Devon, Devon, England, UKⓘGalena
Wheal Hamlyn (Wheal Hamblyn), Bridestowe, West Devon, Devon, England, UKⓘMalachite,ⓘNative Copper,ⓘPyrite,ⓘQuartz
Bradford Pool Mine (Bradmere Pool Mine; Wheal St. Ann), Drewsteignton, West Devon, Devon, England, UKⓘCassiterite
Coombe Vale Consols (Devon Consols North), Lamerton, West Devon, Devon, England, UKⓘGalena
Wheal Harris, Lifton, West Devon, Devon, England, UKⓘGalena,ⓘJamesonite,ⓘPyrite,ⓘQuartz,ⓘSphalerite
Wheal Florence, Lydford, West Devon, Devon, England, UKⓘGalena,ⓘNative Silver
Okehampton Consols, Okehampton Hamlets, West Devon, Devon, England, UKⓘPyrite,ⓘQuartz
Sourton Down Consols, Sourton, West Devon, Devon, England, UKⓘChalcopyrite,ⓘPyrite,ⓘQuartz
Tor Wood Mines, Sourton, West Devon, Devon, England, UKⓘGalena
Park Valley Mine (Park Mine; Wheal Maria), Spreyton, West Devon, Devon, England, UKⓘCalcite,ⓘGalena,ⓘQuartz
Great Wheal Hugo, Sydenham Damerel, West Devon, Devon, England, UKⓘFluorite,ⓘGalena,ⓘQuartz
the heart of Devon’s mining history. Copper mining in Devon is less famous than Cornwall’s, but it was still significant, especially around Dartmoor and the Tamar Valley. Let me give you a clear picture.
🪨 Copper Mining in Devon: The Big Picture
📍 Key Copper Mining Districts in Devon
Here are the main areas where copper mines existed, with notable examples:
1. Tamar Valley (Devon–Cornwall border)
This was the richest copper district in Devon.
2. Dartmoor & Surroundings
3. South Devon
4. North Devon
📑 Sources for a Full List
There is no single definitive published listof allDevon copper mines across all ages, but you can get very close by combining:
✅ Summary
Would you like me to compile a structured table of Devon copper mines(with parish, approximate location, and period of activity) using the NMRS and historical sources? That way you’d have a working gazetteer you can expand into a near-definitive list.
https://www.gracesguide.co.uk/1856_Mines_in_Devon_and_Cornwall
https://nmrs.org.uk/mines-map/metal/cornwall-devon-mines/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mining_in_Cornwall_and_Devon
Got it — let’s unpack that line in context of the page you were reading .
📍 Crownley & Newtake Mines (Ilsington/Bagtor area – copper and iron traces)
🧭 Why they matter
✅ In summary:
The phrase “Crownley & Newtake Mines (Ilsington/Bagtor area – copper and iron traces)”refers to two small mining sites on the eastern edge of Dartmoor. They were exploratory or minor copper mines, with some iron present in the lodes, and are remembered today as part of the wider pattern of Dartmoor’s scattered mineral workings rather than as major producers .
Would you like me to dig into old mining records (like the 1856 Mines in Devon and Cornwall list)to see if Crownley or Newtake are mentioned there, so you can pin down their exact years of activity?
Structured gazetteer of Devon copper mines
Below is a starter list you can build on. It focuses on named copper mines with parish, approximate location, and known periods of activity, prioritizing entries with documented sources.
MineParishApproximate locationPeriod of activityNotesDevon Great ConsolsTavistockBlanchdown Plantation, eastern bank of the River Tamar1844–1903; brief reworking 1915–1925Europe’s top copper producer in its peak years; complex included multiple named “Wheals.”Wheal Maria (part of DGC)TavistockWithin the Devon Great Consols settMid-19th centuryOne of the principal mines within the DGC group.Wheal Anna Maria (part of DGC)TavistockWithin the Devon Great Consols settMid-19th centuryOperated along the same rich copper lode as DGC.Wheal Fanny (part of DGC)TavistockWithin the Devon Great Consols settMid-19th centuryPart of the eastward expansion of the DGC lode.Wheal Josiah (part of DGC)TavistockWithin the Devon Great Consols settMid-19th centuryPart of the mid-century DGC group.Wheal Emma (part of DGC)TavistockWithin the Devon Great Consols settMid-19th centuryPart of the mid-century DGC group.North Bedford Mine (precursor to DGC)TavistockBlanchdown/Tamar ValleyMid-19th centuryOne of the concerns amalgamated into DGC in 1844.Devon & Courtenay Copper MineTavistockBirch Wood near Shillamill (SX 4715 7169)1852–1861; 1869–1878Produced copper and lead; later known as Courtenay Mine.Buckland Copper MineEast BucklandNorth of East Buckland village (NGR SS 671 319)c. 1748–1770sDocumented leases and workings; shallow rich copper deposits typical of North Devon.
Sources:
Notes on completeness and scope
This table is a working gazetteer, not yet exhaustive. Devon’s copper mining is concentrated around Tavistock and the Tamar Valley, with additional, often earlier and smaller, workings in North Devon. The Devon Great Consols complex alone comprised several operations along a single very rich lode, which is why you see multiple “Wheals” listed under Tavistock. For North Devon, Buckland Copper Mine represents the 18th‑century shallow copper style typical of the Pickwell Down Sandstones/Upcott Slates belt.
How to expand the list systematically
Use the NMRS interactive mines map:Filter Devon for “Cu” (copper) to identify additional mines, then click through to entries for names, parishes, and periods. This is the most efficient way to surface candidates across Tamar Valley, Teign Valley, and North Devon.
Consult the Cornwall & West Devon World Heritage Site mines dataset:It aggregates mine records (including West Devon) from HER/SMR and historic maps and tags sites by principal ores and period. Use it to confirm names, parish boundaries, and to locate lesser‑known trials or reworkings.
Cross‑reference detailed local write‑ups:Devon Great Consols and associated mines have substantive summaries you can mine (no pun intended) for dates, constituent mines, and geography to refine entries.
Recommended fields for your master spreadsheet
Populate new entries by first scanning the NMRS map for “Cu” sites, then verifying each with WHS mines dataset records and any NMRS/Buddlepit pages that provide detailed dates and locations.
Want me to add more entries?
If you share a target area (e.g., “Tamar Valley south of Tavistock” or “Teign Valley”), I can expand the table with 15–30 additional copper sites focused on that district and era, with references and grid points where available.
https://devoninfocus.co.uk/mining
2buddlepit.co.uk
Tin Ingots that had previously been recovered from the Erme Estuary. It was thought this analysis would take place during 2013 but has been moved to 2014 owing to funding. These are to be examined and scientifically dated by the British Museum. Funding for this work has already been agreed and will commence towards the end of 2013. The aim is to date and correlate to those recovered and located at Moor Sand and Salcombe. This would then prove localised trade along the south coast of Devon.
Comparisons will then be made to terrestrial recoveries from Dartmoor, Cornwall and inland Devon. Research has shown that Tin and Copper recoveries have been made since prehistory all along the South Coast including rivers and estuaries, throughout Bronze and Iron Age, through Roman and Medieval to current times.
The Rivers Dart , Erme
Rising on the Southern slopes of Dartmoor, the River Erme bubbles and flows through granite and clay before joining the English Channel in Bigbury Bay. An Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, the Erme Estuary is a fantastic spot for Bird watching. Egret, Curlews, oyster-catchers ans kingfishers have all made this special place their home.
The River’s Avon & Gara, springing into life high on the southern slopes of Dartmoor, The River Avon meanders its way down through town and villages, nourishing the land and providing ample opportunities for enjoyment. The Avon Estuary walk is beautiful walking route were you are certain to spot some the wildlife that make their home on or in the River Avon The Salcombe Estuary is unique in the fact it is not fed by one main river but numerous small streams
The River Teign , Devon , Originating on Dartmoor and entering the sea at Teignmouth , the River Teign boasts hugely diverse habitats that attract a large variety of birds and wildlife. The Teign actually has two sources and these streams (the North and South Teign) descend the eastern slopes of the moor high above the village of Chagford.
From Chagford the River winds its way through the often wooded foothills of Dartmoor for nearly ten miles until below Dunsford it heads south, following the road to Chudleigh, Newton Abbot and ultimately into the estuary and the sea at Teignmouth.
Herons, kingfishers, dippers, grey wagtails, cormorants and goosanders can all be found along the Teign and otters are also making a comeback.
The Teign is noted for its salmon, brown trout and sea trout, with Drewe’s Weir being a good place to spot them leaping out of the water
and Tamar have not only provided Tin Streaming deposits but direct access to terrestrial deposits and others at Tor Royal on Dartmoor where recoveries and collections would have been brought down for final transit to the Continent . Tin bearing Ore Load has been seen at Deckler’s Cliff plus Copper further up.
TWO THOUSAND YEARS IN EXETER , Caer-pen-huel-goit,
Again, the site of Exeter lay some ten miles up-river from its mouth and this was important when invaders were most likely to come by sea and to attack coastal settlements. At Exeter one was safe from such attacks, or at least there was ample warning of strange ships coming into the estuary. From the volcanic hill we call Rougemont one could look right down to the mouth of the shining estuary and a strange fleet could be spotted hours before it could attack. For all these reasons Exeter made a good trading-place, and above all, of course, it had something to sell—the products of a rich and varied countryside. And so the stage was set for the village to grow into a town, and later still into a rich medieval city, on its hilltop in the far West of England.
The Coming of the Romans The ancient British name for Exeter seems to have been Caerwysc .{ Isca dumnonia does not mean exeter , this is wrong interpretation of isca , waters of the dumnonii , may help identify the importance of transport hubs , such as waters around the now plymouth ,} “the fortified town on the Exe”, but an even older name occurs in the tradition of a siege by the Roman general Vespasian in the year 49. The tradition tells us that there was already a settlement here when Vespasian was sent westwards , and so supplements the evidence of the Hellenistic coins. At the time of this siege Exeter is said to have been called by the rather formidable name of Caer-pen-huel-goit, which means “die fortified town on the hill near the high or great wood”. Such long descriptive place-names are a characteristic of Wales to this day, and it is quite likely that Exeter had some such ancient names as this in prehistoric times. “The fortified town on the hill ” aptly describes the first site of Exeter, with its earthwork on the end of the ridge or hill. “ The high or great wood ” probably refers to die wooded hills to the north of the city, what we now call Stoke Hill and Pennsylvania , which would have been densely wooded in prehistoric times. Stoke Woods today are a remnant of this great wood of two thousand and more years ago. The tradition of a siege by Vespasian has generally been discredited by modem historians, mainly on the ground that it appears in the writings of a chronicler Geoffrey of Monmouth who is known to be very inaccurate, if no worse . He tells us that Vespasian was sent down by the Emperor Claudius to subdue South-West Britain, and that he besieged Exeter for eight days without success. A British king then arrived from the east with an army and fought with Vespasian. Despite great losses on both sides neither got the victory. Vespasion went on to great things , was it on the back of the mineral weath lets look at new evidence at calstock dumnonia
The next thing is that vespasins ghost can be seen on dartmoor as the area is now known , well he was resident in exeter and travelled to ugborough in devon , where , he was meeting the king within , the king had an hareem now remember there were no motorways at his time , infact reference to the town of calstock in corwall or dumnonia to vespasian ; the isca's of dumnonia were beautifull lagoons , with Vespasian. Despite great losses on both sides neither got the victory.
The next thing is that vespasians ghost can be seen on dartmoor as the area is now known , well he was resident in exeter and travelled to ugborough in devon ,where ,he was meeting the king within , the king had an hareem now remember there were no motorways at his time , infact reference to the town of calstock in corwall or damnonia to vespasian ; the isca's
of damnonia were beautifull lagoons ,
The Erme is a river in south Devon ,England. From its source on Dartmoor it flows in a generally southerly direction past some of the best-preserved archaeological remains on the moor. It leaves the moor at the town of Ivybridge and continues southward, passing the settlements of Ermington, Modbury and Holbeton. Near Holbeton it becomes aria and empties into the English Channel in Bigbury Bay, between the rivers Yealm and Avon.
The Ravenna Cosmography, an imperfect list of place-names that was compiled in the early 8th century from late Roman sources, lists amongst many others, over twenty names that probably refer to places in south-west England. Most of these have not been positively identified, but the name Aramis/ Aranus/ Armiswas suggested to be the River Erme by Rivet and Smith in The Place-names of Roman Britain(1979).
The first certain documentary reference to the river is asIrymin the cartulary of Buckfast Abbey, dated 1240. Other early recorded forms are Hyrm, Irm, Ermand, in the mid 16th century, Arme. The derivation of the name remains unknown. Ekwall's suggestion that it is a back-formation from Ermington is now thought to be unlikely. Tristram Risdon, in his 1811 Survey of Devon gives an alternate name for the River Erme as the River Arme. He also refers to the mouth of the River Erme as Armouth. In Donn's map of Devon published in 1765, the village of Mothecombe at the mouth of the river, is referred to as Muddicomb.
The river just below Erme Pits
On Dartmoor
The River Erme rises near the centre of southern Dartmoor on the Abbot's Way less than a mile to the south of the source of the River Plym. Between these two sources lies Duck's Pool, where there is a plaque and letterbox in memory of the Dartmoor author William Crossing. There are extensive early tin mining workings nearby known as Erme Pits, which are in places over 15 metres deep.
For the first mile or so the river flows south-eastwards. It is joined on the north bank by Wollake, which is the lower part of the Blacklane Brook that rises on the southern flanks of Fox Tor a mile and a half to the north, between Crane Hill and Naker's Hill. The short streams, Dry Lake and Red Lake also join on this side, the latter rising near the disused clay works at Redlake. The confluence of Red Lake, and the source of the Erme are two of the thirty-three places that delineate the ancient boundary of the Forest of Dartmoor. On this stretch, a short stream flowing down Hortonsford Bottom from Langcombe Hill also joins the river from the south.
Between Stingers Hill and Redlake the river turns southward into an area known as The Meadow, where it is crossed by the Upper Erme stone row, the longest on Dartmoor at 3,320 metres (10,890 feet). For the next mile or more downstream from here there are extensive archaeological remains on the river's banks, most notably Erme Pound (the highest and largest Bronze Age enclosure in the area), Downing's House (a well-preserved "tinner's cache" or "beehive hut" with much of its roof preserved), and a number of tinner's huts and blowing houses.
The river leaving its gorge with part of Piles Copse on the left
As the river reaches the edge of the high moor, it flows through the gorge it has cut between Stalldown Barrow on the west and Piles Hill to the east. Here, on the eastern bank, lies Piles Copse which is one of the few areas of ancient woodland on Dartmoor and a Site of Special Scientific Interest.
Although the moorland valley of the Erme today appears to be natural and unspoiled, the entire valley floor from its source down to Piles Copse is artificial, being created by the extensive
tin-streaming operations that took place between the 4th and 14th centuries. Supporting evidence for this was provided by a study published in 2004 which showed that phases of aggradation occurred lower down the valley between the 4th century and the 7th century, and in the 13th century.
Leaving the open moor, the river passes into enclosed land and under its first road bridge at the hamlet of Harford. At this point it is joined by the minor stream of Butter Brook, with its now disused reservoir. From Harford down to the boundary of the national park, which here follows the main railway line between Plymouth and Exeter, much of the river's course is in woodland and is a popular site for kayaking and canoeing, especially in Long Timber Woods.
Ivybridge to Holbeton
After leaving the national park, the river continues southward, passing through the centre of the town of Ivybridge where it formed the source of the town's prosperity by powering a grist mill, a paper mill and a fulling and tucking mill. In 1813 the only bridge over the river in the village (as it was then) was the inspiration for J. M. W. Turner's painting The Ivy Bridge.
Immediately south of Ivybridge, the river passes beneath the A38 Devon Expressway– the main road link between Exeter and Plymouth – and then continues to flow southerly through countryside. On its western bank is the village of Ermington with its famous crooked church spire and the Grade I listed Flete House, the river has been measured near the village since 1973, yielding an average flow of 1.95 cubic metres per second (69 cubic feet/second).The A379 road between Modbury and Yealmpton crosses the river at Sequer's Bridge, shortly below which the river flows over a weir and becomes tidal.
Surrounding this stretch of the river there are several apple orchards, remnants of the many that were once here. Unlike most of the South Hams where the field boundaries consist of Devon hedge banks, hereabouts the boundaries are walls constructed from rounded river boulders, more like the dry stone walls found on Dartmoor.
Looking up the estuary at high tide...... and at low tide
The estuary
As it passes to the east of the village of Holbeton the Erme becomes a ria with extensive areas of salt marsh and mud that are uncovered at low tide. The geology of the area is mostly slate from the Devonian period. The river enters the English Channel near the villages of Kingston to the east and Mothecombe and Holbeton to the west and at the mouth of the estuary lie the beaches of Wonwell and Mothecombe. The estuary is surrounded by the 5,000 acre Flete Estate.
In 1991 and 1992 some 42 tin ingots were found in the mouth of the estuary on the north side of the West Mary Reef. These date from between 500 BC and 600 AD. Tin mining was in existence on Dartmoor from an early date. Dartmoor tin-mining would have been a major part of the South Devon economy throughout its history.
There is an Iron Age hill fort at Holbury near Holbeton overlooking the estuary from the west and evidence of a very early 11th Century fort and settlement just a little way inland at Oldaport. In the 1950s and again in the 1990s a variety of fragments of "Dark Ages" and Roman pots were discovered on Mothecombe beach.
There are four ruined lime kiln sin the estuary; all are in an advanced state of disrepair. Limestone came by sea from Plymouth quarries. Coal arrived on the beach from South Wales and was unloaded to horse-drawn carts. Some was stored in a shed at the top of the Mothecombe slip, but some was loaded into a small barge to move further up the estuary as far as Efford.
From Clyng Corn Mill (now a private house to Orcheton Quay) there used to be a canal which has long since silted up and is now just a small stream. This canal brought goods to and from Modbury and beyond. "Runaway Lane" was the main link between Orcheton Quay and Modbury. The 1809 Ordnance Survey map shows the canal very clearly.
There was a fishing community on Wonwell beach for many years but the houses are now in ruins and overgrown. Professional fishermen worked the beach until the 1960s. The main catch was lobster and crab. These were boiled on the beach and carried to the village of Kingston on donkeys. The withies which were used to make the pots and panniers were grown in willow plats (areas of pollarded willow) in the area.
Many ships have been lost in the area over the centuries. The Salcombe Cannon Wreck of the 1630s is a notable site. A large cast iron Swedish gun dating to 1690–1720 has been found in the estuary.On 15 December 1793,HMS Pigmy went aground on the jagged East Mary rocks, which together with the West Mary Rocks form a mostly submerged bar to the estuary. At the court martial, the vessel's pilot stated that he believed that he was entering Plymouth Sound, some 14 miles west.
islandsroman roadipplepentinsea fairing bronzeperiod
Uncovering Ipplepen's past
2009: Roman coins are first discovered at Ipplepen, near Newton Abbot
2011: Trial excavations begin
2012: A Roman road, a square enclosure ditch of Roman date, and an Iron Age/Romano-British round house are discovered
February 2015: A Roman cemetery is been discovered, revealing 15 skeletons
June 2016: The boundaries of the Roman Empire are redrawn after it is discovered the settlement had trade links to the rest of the Empire
About 40 villagers from Ipplepen have been helping at the excavation
An Iron Age settlement unearthed in Devon has been described as one of the most important finds of its kind.I t was prompted by the chance discovery of Roman coins in fields at Ipplepen, near Newton Abbot about four years ago.
Archaeologists, who have recently started examining the site, said it is the first of its kind in the county.
The excavation is being funded by the British Museum, Exeter University, the Portable Antiquities Scheme (PAS) and Devon County Council.
Sam Moorhead from the British Museum said he believed the Ipplepen site was "one of the most significant Roman discoveries in the country for many decades".
The site was discovered by local metal detector enthusiasts Jim Wills and Dennis Hewings, who contacted archaeologist Danielle Wootton, the Devon finds liaison officer for the PAS.
'Electric atmosphere'
Ms Wootton said local people had been involved in the project, with about 40 volunteers helping at the excavation site.
"When we announced the find at a community meeting about three years ago, the hall was absolutely packed with local people and there was an electric atmosphere," she told BBC News.
"The bit we've excavated at the moment is prehistoric -it's Iron Age -but we have picked up traces of some Roman Romano-British field boundaries," she said.
Ipplepen excavation
Image caption,
The British Museum said the Ipplepen site was one of the most significant Roman discoveries in England for decades
"It's probably going to take us a very long time for us to fully understand the nature of the settlement and how long it was occupied for.
Ms Wootton said the important discovery should be credited to Mr Wills and Mr Hewings who had painstakingly recorded "every scrap of metal" they found.
"Jim and Dennis have been absolutely first class in recording what they've found and it's a result of them being responsible with their metal detecting that we've discovered this site," she said.
Mr Wills said the oldest coin he found dated back to 117BC,
"The very first Roman coin I found strangely enough -and this is out of more than 100 coins we found subsequently -is still the oldest of all the coins," he said.
"I've been detecting for many years, but it's always thrilling to dig up something you recognise is really important."
Part of the settlement excavation site will be open to the public on Sunday.
Related Internet Links
Portable Antiquities Scheme
British Museum
University of Exeter
The BBC is not responsible for the content of external sites.
Archaeologist at the Ipplepen siteIMAGE SOURCE,UNIVERSITY OF EXETER
Image caption,
Archaeologists said the discoveries were both regionally and nationally important
A "major" Roman cemetery has been discovered during an archaeological dig in Devon.
Experts found 15 skeletons during the excavation of a Roman road at Ipplepen, near Exeter.
Tests on one of the skeletons showed the settlement was in use up to 350 years after the Roman period ended, which has surprised experts.
Archaeologists said the discoveries were both nationally and regionally important.
Danielle Wootton, from the Portable Antiquities Scheme, said: "As the excavation progressed, it became clear that we were dealing with one of the most significant Romano-British cemeteries discovered in Devon and that it had huge potential to develop our understanding of settlements and how people lived in the South West 2,000 years ago."
The Romans invaded Britain in 43 AD and their reign ended in about 410 AD.
Ms Wootton said the discovery of a body from up to 350 years after they left "suggests continuation of the settlement after the Roman period and shows that life carried on at Ipplepen rather than falling out of use."
The team, from the University of Exeter, hopes further research will more about the ages of those who died, along with the diets and diseases they had.
Bill Horner, county archaeologist, said: "This is one of the most important discoveries in Devon in recent years.
"The concentration and range of finds and archaeological features is really exciting."
The Ipplepen project is supported by the University of Exeter,the Portable Antiquities Scheme, the British Museum and Devon County Council.
COIN
Unique ID: DEV-FB6B2A
Object type certainty: Certain
Workflow status: Awaiting validation Find awaiting validation
A highly abraded Roman copper alloy Sestertius or Dupondius, probably of an empress but detail unclear. Probably dating to c. AD 100-200. Uncertain reverse type, depicting a central figure standing left with right arm raised.
Subsequent actions
Subsequent action after recording: Returned to finder
Chronology
Broad period: ROMAN
Period from: ROMAN
Period to: ROMAN
Date from: Circa AD 1
Date to: Circa AD 200
Dimensions and weight
Quantity: 1
Weight: 10.38 g
Diameter: 28.5 mm
Personal details
This information is restricted for your access level.
Other reference numbers
Other reference: SCC receipt: 019397
Materials and construction
Primary material: Copper alloy
Manufacture method: Struck or hammered
Completeness: Complete
Coin data (numismatics)
Denomination: Sestertius, dupondius or as
Denomination qualifier: Certain
Obverse description: Bust right, probably female
Obverse inscription: Illegible
Reverse description: Probable male figure standing left with right arm raised
Reverse inscription: Illegible
Die axis measurement: 6 o'clock
Degree of wear: Extremely worn: poor
Status: Regular
Coin references
No coin references available.
Spatial metadata
Region: South West (European Region)
County or Unitary authority: Devon (County)
District: Teignbridge (District)
To be known as: Ipplepen CP
Spatial coordinates
Grid reference source: GPS (from the finder)
Unmasked grid reference accurate to a 1 metre square.
Discovery metadata
Method of discovery: Metal detector
General landuse: Grassland, Heathland
References cited
No references cited so far.
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Timeline of associated dates
Associated dates for DEV-FB6B2A
Dates mentioned in this record
Record ID: DEV-5BA7A3
Object type: TOBACCO HOLDERRecord ID: DEV-5BA7A3
Object type: TOBACCO HOLDER
Broad period: POST MEDIEVAL
County: Devon
Workflow stage: Awaiting validation Find awaiting validation
A post medieval lead alloy tobacco jar lid handle dating to the period c. AD 1700-1800. The handle comprises a central conical boss surrounded by a circular collar and eight oval petals, one of whch has been bent out of shape. Below is a waisted short shank which expands again as a smaller circular collared plate with a protruding lug. The lower plate has been squashed out of shape. The lower parts would engage a lid of different material. Similar examples include: NLM-5268E6. The handle measures 24.86mm in diameter, 21.74mm in height and weighs 25.22g.
Created on: Thursday 18th August 2016
Last updated: Tuesday 6th September 2016
Spatial data recorded. This findspot is known as 'Ipplepen', grid reference and parish protected
Broad period: POST MEDIEVAL
County: Devon
Workflow stage: Awaiting validation Find awaiting validation
A post medieval lead alloy tobacco jar lid handle dating to the period c. AD 1700-1800. The handle comprises a central conical boss surrounded by a circular collar and eight oval petals, one of whch has been bent out of shape. Below is a waisted short shank which expands again as a smaller circular collared plate with a protruding lug. The lower plate has been squashed out of shape. The lower parts would engage a lid of different material. Similar examples include: NLM-5268E6. The handle measures 24.86mm in diameter, 21.74mm in height and weighs 25.22g.
Created on: Thursday 18th August 2016
Last updated: Tuesday 6th September 2016
Spatial data recorded. This findspot is known as 'Ipplepen', grid reference and parish protected
Record ID: FASAM-BDA6E2
Object type: COIN
Broad period: ROMAN
County: Devon
Workflow stage: Published Find published
Copper-alloy as, probably ofVespasian (AD 69-79)(Reece Period 4), probably FIDES PVBLICA. Mint unclear. See RIC II (2nd ed), plate 62, no. 1164 for possible type. (Checked by SM)
Created on: Monday 14th October 2013
Last updated: Monday 14th October 2013
Spatial data recorded. This findspot is known as 'Ipplepen', grid reference and parish protected.
Thumbnail image of FASAM-BC8684
Record ID: FASAM-BC8684
Object type: COIN
Broad period: ROMAN
County: Devon
Workflow stage: Published Find published
Silver denarius of Tiberius (AD 14-37) (Reece Period 1), PONTIF MAXIM, female seated right. Mint of Lyon (Lugdunum). RIC I, p. 95, no. 30. (Checked by SM)
Created on: Monday 14th October 2013
Last updated: Monday 14th October 2013
Spatial data recorded. This findspot is known as 'Ipplepen', grid reference and parish protected.
Thumbnail image of FASAM-BC6601
Record ID: FASAM-BC6601
Object type: COIN
Broad period: ROMAN
County: Devon
Workflow stage: Published Find published
A denarius of Augustus dating to 15-13 BC (Reece Period 1); IMP X ACT reverse type depicting Apollo Citharoedus standing left in long drapery, holding plectrum in right hand and a lyre in left hand. Mint of Lugdunum. RIC I (rev.ed.) p. 52, no. 171a.
Created on: Monday 14th October 2013
Last updated: Thursday 2nd January 2014
Spatial data recorded. This findspot is known as 'Ipplepen', grid reference and parish protected.
Thumbnail image of DEV-7E4FB5
Record ID: DEV-7E4FB5
Object type: COIN
Broad period: ROMAN
County: Devon
Workflow stage: Published Find published
Roman copper alloy as or dupondius, probably of the emperor Vespasian (AD 69 -79) (Reece Period 4), reverse unclear, but probably a standing figure. Mint unclear. (Checked by SM)
Created on: Friday 27th August 2010
Last updated: Monday 14th October 2013
Spatial data recorded. This findspot is known as 'Ipplepen', grid reference and parish protected.
Record ID:DEV-0E813A
Object type: COIN DIE
Broad period: ROMAN
County: Devon
Workflow stage: Awaiting validation
A Roman iron coin die of unknown date. Delamination and corrosion of the object is such that none of the original die design is extant. The die is sub-pyramidal in shape with the sub-square striking surface that is relatively flat. The sides taper inwards and terminate at a sub-square face. This die is similar in form to BH-3CD2BC and BUC-D08867 which are associated with further Roman material and copper rods and blanks. A Roman date is suggested from this in the absence of extant design. Measurements: Height 44.54mm, Top 23.06x24.34mm, Base 2…Created on:Wednesday 23rd July 2025Last updated:Monday 4th August 2025Spatial data recorded.This findspot is known as 'Ipplepen', grid reference and parish protected.
Record ID:DEV-D7AE45
Object type: COIN
Broad period: MEDIEVAL
County: Devon
Workflow stage: Awaiting validation
A broken silver fragment of a soldino dating from c. AD1365-1423. Obverse: uncertain, AND[...] Reverse: Winged and nimbate lion of St Mark facing. [...]ETI. Measurements: Diameter: 13.53mm, Weight 0.23g.Created on:Tuesday 9th January 2024Last updated:Sunday 21st January 2024Spatial data recorded.This findspot is known as 'Ipplepen', grid reference and parish protected.
Record ID:DEV-6A3508
Object type: COIN
Broad period: MEDIEVAL
County: Devon
Workflow stage: Awaiting validation
A medieval silver penny of Edward III (1327-1377), Fourth coinage, Treaty period (1361-1369), dating toAD1361-1369. Episcopal mint of York. Measurements: Diameter 16.5mm, Weight 0.92gCreated on:Wednesday 12th October 2022Last updated:Monday 17th October 2022Spatial data recorded.This findspot is known as 'Ipplepen CP', grid reference and parish protected.
Record ID:DEV-CEBCCB
Object type: COIN
Broad period: MEDIEVAL
County: Devon
Workflow stage: Awaiting validation
A medieval silver penny of Edward I (AD1272-1307) dating to 1280. Class 3, 3c or 3e. Mint of York. See North (1991, 28), nos 1018 or 1020. Measurements: Diameter: 18.5mm, Weight: 1.19gCreated on:Wednesday 17th August 2022Last updated:Thursday 6th October 2022Spatial data recorded.This findspot is known as 'Ipplepen CP', grid reference and parish protected.
Record ID:DEV-CE0C68
Object type: BUCKLE
Broad period: POST MEDIEVAL
County: Devon
Workflow stage: Awaiting validation
An incomplete post-medieval cast copper-alloy double looped buckle frame with moulded decoration on the loop's outer edge, dating to c.1500-1600. Around half of the buckle remains with old breaks beyond the pin bar, consisting of a D-shaped loop with a narrowed bar and moulded knops either end. The outer edge is enlarged to accommodate a moulded rosette, with defined petals. The front of the frame is rounded and the reverse flat, forming a D-shaped cross section. The pin is missing. Dark patches on the buckle's surface suggest that it may have been lacquered. M…
Created on:Wednesday 17th August 2022
Last updated:Wednesday 5th October 2022
Spatial data recorded.This findspot is known as 'Ipplepen', grid reference and parish protected.
Record ID:SOM-E755CE
Object type: FLAT AXEHEAD
Broad period: BRONZE AGE
County: Somerset
Workflow stage: Published
An incomplete cast copper alloy possibly Copper Age (Chalcolithic) flat axehead (c.2400 to 2200BC). The axehead is sub-trapezoid in plan and flattened oval in cross section across the axe and pointed oval on cross section longitudinally. It is extremely worn with the original surface almost completely lost and is likely to have originally been slightly wider and thicker. The evenly rounded ends suggest is probably otherwise almost complete with perhaps some damage at the butt. The parallel sides are relatively straight, expanding towards a convex curved blade that has a wid…Created on:Thursday 20th February 2020Last updated:Saturday 14th March 2020Spatial data recorded.This findspot is known as 'Kingston St Mary', grid reference and parish protected.
Record ID:DEV-FB6B2A
Object type: COIN
Broad period: ROMAN
County: Devon
Workflow stage: Awaiting validation
A highly abraded Roman copper alloy Sestertius or Dupondius, probably of an empress but detail unclear. Probably dating to c.AD100-200. Uncertain reverse type, depicting a central figure standing left with right arm raised.Created on:Tuesday 12th December 2017Last updated:Tuesday 12th December 2017Spatial data recorded.This findspot is known as 'Ipplepen CP', grid reference and parish protected.
Record ID:DEV-717603
Object type: STRAP FITTING
Broad period: POST MEDIEVAL
County: Devon
Workflow stage: Awaiting validation
A post medieval copper alloy strap fitting in the form of a hooked mount dating to the period c.AD1550 - 1650. The object has a rounded knop at the top with a central rivet hole containing the corroded remains of the iron rivet. Below this is a concavo-convex plate in the form of a shell with moulded ridges radiating from a cental point at the bottom to the top. The plate then narrows into a moulded collar and terminates in a rearward facing hook. On the back of the collar is an integrally cast lug. The strap fitting measures 40.13mm in length, 15.37mm maximum width, 4.95mm minim…Created on:Friday 19th August 2016Last updated:Tuesday 6th September 2016Spatial data recorded.This findspot is known as 'Ipplepen', grid reference and parish protected.
Record ID:DEV-5D4E8E
Object type: WEIGHT
Broad period: POST MEDIEVAL
County: Devon
Workflow stage: Awaiting validation
A copper alloy weight, probably from a clock, of post medieval to modern date (c. 1800 - 1950). The object is in the form of an acorn, with a circular suspension loop projecting from the base if the cup. The acorn tapers inwards from the cup. It terminates in a pointed knop, representing the remains of the style. The weight measures 31.10mm in length, 14.88mm in diameter and weighs 22.58g.
Created on:Thursday 18th August 2016
Last updated:Tuesday 6th September 2016
Spatial data recorded.This findspot is known as 'Ipplepen', grid reference and parish protected.
Record ID:DEV-5CDAA7
Object type: SPOON
Broad period: POST MEDIEVAL
County: Devon
Workflow stage: Awaiting validation
A post medieval lead alloy terminal, probably from a spoon, dating to the period c.AD1600 - 1800. The terminal is domed at the top and is decorated with a series of vertical ridges radiating from the top to a collar. Below the collar, the shaft narrows and then expands into a double collar, before tapering to an old break. On either side of the object is a longitudinal casting seam. The object measures 33.89mm in length, 15.47mm maximum width, 4.86mm minimum width, 12.92mm maximum thickness, 4.78mm minimum thickness and weighs 18.32g. A similar example recorded on the database…Created on:Thursday 18th August 2016Last updated:Tuesday 6th September 2016Spatial data recorded.This findspot is known as 'Ipplepen', grid reference and parish protected.
Record ID:DEV-5BA7A3
Object type: TOBACCO HOLDER
Broad period: POST MEDIEVAL
County: Devon
Workflow stage: Awaiting validation
A post medieval lead alloy tobacco jar lid handle dating to the period c.AD1700-1800. The handle comprises a central conical boss surrounded by a circular collar and eight oval petals, one of whch has been bent out of shape. Below is a waisted short shank which expands again as a smaller circular collared plate with a protruding lug. The lower plate has been squashed out of shape. The lower parts would engage a lid of different material. Similar examples include: NLM-5268E6. The handle measures 24.86mm in diameter, 21.74mm in height and weighs 25.22g.Created on:Thursday 18th August 2016Last updated:Tuesday 6th September 2016Spatial data recorded.This findspot is known as 'Ipplepen', grid reference and parish protected.
Record ID:DEV-460464
Object type: BUCKLE
Broad period: MEDIEVAL
County: Devon
Workflow stage: Awaiting validation
An incomplete copper alloy medieval or post medieval double loop buckle dating to the period c.AD1350-1700. The buckle has a rectangular frame which is divided into two unequally sized loops by the central pin bar. The pin is missing. At the top of the buckle is a rectangular suspension loop. The frame has bevelled outer edges. On one side of the frame is an incised pin rest. There are traces of white metal coating on the front. The buckle measures 29.69mm in length, 30.41mm in width, is 3.81mm thick and weighs 9.80g. Whitehead (1996, 76, refs. 470 and 471) suggests a date o…Created on:Wednesday 17th August 2016Last updated:Friday 17th August 2018Spatial data recorded.This findspot is known as 'Ipplepen', grid reference and parish protected.
Record ID:DEV-4434A4
Object type: BUCKLE
Broad period: POST MEDIEVAL
County: Devon
Workflow stage: Awaiting validation
An annular buckle frame of post medieval to modern date (c.AD1650 - 1900). The front has a slight ridge running around the inner edge and is incised with a series of diagonal grooves which radiate to the outer edge of the plate. There is a small notch on one side of the inner edge. The back is flat with a slightly bevelled inner edge. The object has a smooth dark green patina. There are traces of a substance, possibly lacquer within the grooves. The buckle measures 29.79mm in length, 25.87mm in width, is 2.43mm thick and weighs 5.40g.Created on:Wednesday 17th August 2016Last updated:Tuesday 6th September 2016Spatial data recorded.This findspot is known as 'Ipplepen', grid reference and parish protected.
Record ID:DEV-8E75C4
Object type: STRAP FITTING
Broad period: POST MEDIEVAL
County: Devon
Workflow stage: Awaiting validation
A post medieval copper alloy strap fitting from a sword belt dating to the period c.AD1550 - 1700. The mount has a rounded knop at the top with a central perforation which retains the corroded remains of an iron rivet. Below this is an openwork trefoil plate formed by two circular aperture on a horizontal axis below which, and at the centre, is a lozenge-shaped perforation. Below this is a cusped moulding with a central rivet hole which retains the corroded remains of an iron rivet. The mount then tapers into a hook which curves backwards and upwards, touching the back of the plate.…Created on:Friday 15th July 2016Last updated:Tuesday 6th September 2016Spatial data recorded.This findspot is known as 'Ipplepen', grid reference and parish protected.
Record ID:DEV-D4FB0C
Object type: HARNESS PENDANT
Broad period: MEDIEVAL
County: Devon
Workflow stage: Awaiting validation
A medieval enamelled copper alloy harness pendant dating to the period c.AD1300 - 1400. The harness pendant is lozenge shaped with a short rectangular neck projecting from the top, terminating in an attachment loop. The remains of a corroded iron suspension bar pass through the attachment loop and hold the remains of the suspension mount in place. The suspension mount consists of two arms which sit on either side of the loop before joining at the shank which terminates in a worn break. The front of the lozenge retains traces of an inlaid white enamel design in the shape of an ani…Created on:Friday 24th June 2016Last updated:Friday 22nd September 2017Spatial data recorded.This findspot is known as 'Ipplepen', grid reference and parish protected.
Record ID:DEV-40374D
Object type: CANDLESTICK
Broad period: POST MEDIEVAL
County: Devon
Workflow stage: Awaiting validation
An incomplete copper alloy candlestick of late medieval to post medieval date (c.AD1475 - 1600). The socket is cylindrical with a rounded base and is missing approximately one third due to old damage. The remaining section is slightly bent out of shape. The socket is turned and exhibits two circumferential grooves separated by a ridge just below the lip, with a further pair of grooves approximately half way down the body. The surviving diameter of the socket is 26.56mm (internal diameter 20.69mm). It is 39.98mm deep and 41.14mm long. The socket is 1.91mm thick at the lip, expanding …Created on:Friday 17th June 2016Last updated:Monday 5th September 2016Spatial data recorded.This findspot is known as 'Ipplepen', grid reference and parish protected.
Record ID:FASAM-53B538
Object type: COIN
Broad period: ROMAN
County: Devon
Workflow stage: Published
Silver denarius of Antoninus Pius (AD138-61), dating toAD158-9 (Reece Period 7), VOTA SOL DEC II, COS IIII (in exergue), Antoninus sacrificing. Mint of Rome.RICIII, p. 61, no. 291b. (Checked by SM)Created on:Monday 21st October 2013Last updated:Monday 21st October 2013Spatial data recorded.This findspot is known as 'Ipplepen', grid reference and parish protected.
Record ID:FASAM-11C493
Object type: COIN
Broad period: ROMAN
County: Devon
Workflow stage: Published
Copper-alloy coin, probably an as, probably dating to c. 117-192. There is an unclear bust on the obverse; the reverse is illegible. (Checked by SM)
Created on:Friday 18th October 2013
Last updated:Friday 18th October 2013
Spatial data recorded.This findspot is known as 'Ipplepen', grid reference and parish protected.
Record ID:FASAM-CEE6B3
Object type: COIN
Broad period: ROMAN
County: Devon
Workflow stage: Published
Roman Republican silver denarius of M. Calidus, Q. Metellus and Cn. Fulvius, dating to 117-116BC(Reece Period 1), Head of Roma / Victory in biga. Mint of Rome.RRCp. 300, no. 284/1bCreated on:Tuesday 15th October 2013Last updated:Tuesday 15th October 2013Spatial data recorded.This findspot is known as 'Ipplepen', grid reference and parish protected.
Record ID:FASAM-BDA6E2
Object type: COIN
Broad period: ROMAN
County: Devon
Workflow stage: Published
Copper-alloy as, probably of Vespasian (AD69-79) (Reece Period 4), probably FIDES PVBLICA. Mint unclear. SeeRICII (2nd ed), plate 62, no. 1164 for possible type. (Checked by SM)
Created on:Monday 14th October 2013
Last updated:Monday 14th October 2013
Spatial data recorded.This findspot is known as 'Ipplepen', grid reference and parish protected
Summary of Roman roads between Exeter and Newton Abbot
Key mapped/recorded routes and identifiers
Where traces or place-names suggest Roman influence
Evidence types and why researchers now find more roads
Practical next steps and local sources to consult
Quick reading links and references
3www.orionheritage.co.uk
https://www.orionheritage.co.uk/roman-roads-in-the-south-west-of-england/
2news.exeter.ac.uk
https://news.exeter.ac.uk/faculty-of-humanities-arts-and-social-sciences/roman-road-network-spanning-the-south-west-identified-in-new-research/
1saxonhistory.co.uk
https://www.orionheritage.co.uk/roman-roads-in-the-south-west-of-england/
At Fernworthy itself is a circle of upright stones and the remains of several stone rows sorely mutilated for the construction of a newtake wall. In a tumulus near these monuments was found an urn containing ashes, with a flint knife, and another, very small, of bronze or copper, and a large polished button of horn.On Chagford Common,near Watern Hill, is a double pair of rows leading from a cairn and asmall menhir, to blocking - stones. Although the stones of which they are composed are small, the rows are remarkably well preserved .It will repay the visitor to continue his ascent of the South Teign to the Grey Wethers , two circles of stone, of which, however, many are fallen. Here exploration, such as has been conducted at Fernworthy circle, shows that the floors are deep in ashes, and this leads to the surmise that the circles were the crematories of the dead who lie in the cairns and tunnels in the neighbourhood.Near the source of the North Teign is Teignhead House , one of the most solitary spots in England.A shepherd resides there, but it is not for many winters that a woman can endure the isolation and retain her reason.According to Wace and Layamon,in the time of King Arthur circa 6th century Cador ,Earl of Cornwall, pursued Childric the Saxon Kaiser and his troops as they fled towards their ships , which were moored (apparently) off Teignmouth Beach. Cador overtook them on the banks of the Teign. The churls, armed with “bats” and pitchforks, slew a large number of the Saxons and “then saw Childric that it befell to them evilly; that all his mickle folk fell to the ground; now he saw there beside a hill exceeding great; the water floweth thereunder that is named Teine; the hill is named Teinewic ; thitherward fled Childric with his four and twenty knights ... and Cador heaved up his sword and Childric he slew ... in the Teine water he perished.”
It seems very likely that the hill mentioned was the Ness, which was once known as Bryn Maur, or the great hill, and the battle probably took place on Shaldon sands.The crossing from Shaldon to Teignmouth and the ferry dues were part of the perquisites of the Earl of Cornwall (who also called himself King of the Romans, a title dating from King Arthur’s day) in the 11th century a .d ., and it is probable that Cador gained these as part of the spoils of battle. By the middle of the 7th century a .d ., the valleys of the lower Exe and the Creedy were occupied by Saxons, and the Britons (as the Celtic and Mediterranean peoples called themselves) lived more or less amicably with them in the town of Exeter, but Devon was still predominantly Celtic and was ruled by a Celtic monarch. At this time, Bishop Honorius of Canterbury settled the boundaries of the land and fixed parishes. Taintona probably received official recognition. The parish of St. Nicholas was designated at Bryn Maur (Celtic for “Great Hill”) now corrupted into “Ringmore.” Taintona was probably not called by that name in those days, as “ton” or “tun” is a Saxon word for a settlement, and means a fencible place. It was, however, a fortified village. In 682 a .d ., Centwine, the Angle, “drove the Britons of the west as far as the sea, at the sword point”. This seems to indicate a more determined Anglo-Saxon invasion of Devon and an attempt to push the Celts further west. Assuming the Exe to be in the hands of the Saxons, the sea mentioned is probably the natural boundary made by the river Teign. It is probable that the Saxons took over Taintona and gave it a name in their own tongue, while the Celts moved across the river. The old hillside lookout above the Teign now fulfilled another purpose; that of a Celtic spyhole against the Saxons. In 800 a .d ., Egbert made another attempt to extend the Saxon rule in Devon, but at this time the Saxons themselves were being harried. Another race of marauders was sweeping down on Britain. These were the Danes. Now began a time of fear. The Saxon settlers complained that the sea, formerly their friend, was nowtheir enemy ;Countless ages ago, the earth threw up the molten rock which was to become Dartmoor, the backbone of the County of Devon.Convulsive movements raised and lowered the land, so that the great rock mass became part of a vast continent which included the land which we now call France.Then the sea rushed in, filling the depression which was to become the English Channel and making islands of the rocky promontories of the Continental coasts. Movements continued intermittently over thousands of years, and masses of sand, silt and pebbles were laid down around the rock mass.The ice ages came and went and, although they did not reach as far south as the embryonic Dartmoor, snow-slips which preceded the glaciers carried debris which was scattered over the Moor as “clitters.”In warmer intervals between the centuries of ice, there were great floods of rain, which weathered and split the great rock plateau and rushed down from the high land in steep, stormy torrents -the beginning of the Taw, the Torridge, the Plym, the Dart and the Teign.The Teign carried with it thousands of tons of rotted granite, which it laid down in its lower reaches as boulder clay. It cut for itself a narrow course through the softer rocks below the Moor and eventually poured into the sea through a sunken valley which we now call the Teign Estuary.At the mouth of the valley, the current of the river, checked by the sea and by broken rocks, silt and sand, built up an area of beachy mud. The river, deflected by this barrier, took a sharp turn to the right and cut a way for itself at the foot ofthe great cliff which we now call the Ness.The heaving crust of the earth had now become more stable.Life had established itself on the land and the brown bear, the mammoth and the sabre-toothed tiger were wandering over the countryside, hunting, and being hunted by, primitive man.The caves at Brixham and Torquay show traces of man’s habitation and there are signs that wild beasts lived there too.No doubt Palaeolithic man hunted over the hills around Teignmouth and fished in the Teign, but there is no record of inhabited caves in or near Teignmouth.Thousands of years later,Bronze Age man lived on Haldon and he regarded the shores of Teignmouth as a good place to obtain supplies of salt for preserving his meat and for adding savour to his food.References in the works of Greek and Roman writers show that in pre-Roman times there was a flourishing civilization in the West of England,ChageyfordCHAGFORD
"Chageyford in the dirt"—The making of Chagford—The old clerk—The church—Tincombe Lane—Chagford Common—Flint finds— Scaur Hill circle—Stone rows—The Tolmen—The Teign river— Camps on it—Drewsteignton cromlech—Gidleigh—Old farmhouses —Fernworthy—The Grey Wethers—Teignhead House—Browne's House—Story about it—Grimspound—Birch Tor stone rows— Chaw Gully—The Webburn.
CHAGFORD is in Domesday written Chageford, and this is the local pronunciation of the name at the present day. The natives say, "Chageford in the dirt—O good Lord!"But Chagford has had the ability and promptitude to get out of the dirt and prove itself to be anything but a stick-in-the-mud place. It is with places as with people, some have good luck fall to them, others make their fortunes for themselves. Okehampton belongs to the former class, Chagford to the latter. It owes almost everything to a late rector, who, resolved on pushing the place, invited down magazine editors and professionallittérateursentertained them, drove them about, and was rewarded by articles appearing in journals and serials, belauding Chagford for its salubrious climate, its incomparable scenery, its ready hospitality, its rural sweetness, and its archaeological interest.Whither the writers pointed with their pens, thither the public ran, and Chagford was made. It has now every appliance suitable—pure water, electric lighting, telephone, a bicycle shop, and doctors to patch broken heads and set broken limbs of those upset from the "bikes."Chagford is undoubtedly a picturesque and pleasant spot. It is situated near Dartmoor, and is sheltered from the cold and from the rainy drift that comes from the south-west. The lodging-house keepers know how to make visitors comfortable, and to charge for so doing. The church has been restored, coaches run to bring visitors, and the roads and lanes have been widened.I recall the church before modern ideas had penetrated to Chagford. At that time the clerk, who also led the orchestra, gave out the psalm from his seat under the reading-desk, then,whistlingthe tune, he marched slowly down the nave, ascended to the gallery with leisure, and the performance began.The church, dedicated to S. Michael, was rebuilt in the middle of the fifteenth century, when the Gorges family owned much land in the parish. Their cognisance, thewhirlpool, a canting cognisance (gurges) appears in the bosses of the roof. It contains two monuments of some importance: one is a handsome stone altar tomb, with a canopy supported on columns, in memory of Sir John Whiddon, of Whiddon Park, Judge of Queen's Bench, who died in 1575; the other is to commemorate John Prouze, who died in 1664.The Three Crowns Inn, opposite the church, is apicturesque building of the seventeenth century. Chagford was one of the Stannary towns, but no remains of the court-house exist.On Mattadon, above the town, stands a rude early cross of granite.The ascent to the moor by Tincombe Lane, as I remember it half a century ago, was no better than a watercourse, strewn with boulders, to be scrambled up or down at the risk of dislocation of the ankle. It then well merited the descriptive lines:—
"Tincombe Lane is all uphill
Or downhill, as you take it;
You tumble up, and crack your crown,
Or tumble down and break it.
"Tincombe Lane is crook'd and straight,
Here pothook, there as arrow,
'Tis smooth to foot, 'tis full of rut,
'Tis wide, and then, 'tis narrow.
"Tincombe Lane is just like life,
From when you leave your mother;
'Tis sometimes this, 'tis sometimes that,
'Tis one thing or the other."
Now all is changed. A steam-roller goes up and down Tincombe Lane, the angles have been rounded, the precipitous portions made easy, the ruts filled up. And life likewise is now made easy for the rising generation—possibly too easy. Ruggedness had a charm of its own, and bred vigour of constitution and moral physique.Chagford having lost, by death, the whistling clerk, started a blind organist. Now, also, he is gone.Every peculiarity is being crushed out of modern life by the steam-roller, civilisation.Chagford Common, as I recall it, half a century ago, was strewn thick with hut circles. One ascended to it by Tincombe Lane and came into a prehistoric world, a Pompeii of a past before Rome was. It was dense with hut circles, pounds, and every sort of relic of the ancient inhabitants of the moor. But inclosures have been made, and but a very few relics of the aboriginal settlement remain. One of the most curious, the "Roundy Pound," only escaped through urgent remonstrance made to spare it. The road carried over the common annually eats up the remains of old, as the road-menders take away the stones from the hut circles to metal the highway.At Batworthy, one of the inclosures, there must have been anciently a manufactory of flint tools and weapons. Countless spalls of flint and a fine collection of fabricated weapons and tools have been found there, and the collection has been presented from this place to the Plymouth Municipal Museum.On Gidleigh Common, beside the Teign, opposite Batworthy, is Scaur Hill circle. It consists of thirty-two stones, at present, of which eight are prostrate. The highest of the stones is a little over six feet. The circle is ninety-two feet in diameter. Apparently leading towards this ring, on the Chagford side of the river, was a very long double row of stones, with a second double row or avenue branching from it.There was a third double row, which started from the Longstone, near Caistor Rock. This Longstoneis still standing, but the stone rows have been
Plan of Stone Rows Near Caster Rock(Taken in 1851, Scale 1/12 in. to 10 feet.)A. The Longstone. Hence in a northerly direction the row continued for 520 feet.B. Cairn. C. Cairn with ring of stones.shamefully robbed by a farmer to build his newtake walls. I give plan of the rows as taken by me in 1851. There was another line of stones leading from the Three Boys to the Longstone. The Three Boys were three big stones that have disappeared, and the line from them has also been obliterated. This portion I unfortunately did not plan in 1851.
In the valley of the Teign is the so-called tolmen, a natural formation. In the same slab or stone may be seen the beginnings of a second hole. But it is curious as showing that the river at one time rolled at a higher elevation than at present. The scenes on a ramble up the river from Chagford to Holy Street Mill and the mill itself are familiar to many, as having furnished subjects for pictures in the Royal Academy.The river Teign below Whiddon Park winds in and out among wooded precipitous hills to where the Exeter road descends in zigzags to Fingle Bridge, passing on its way Cranbrook Castle, a stone camp. Thebrookin the name is a corruption ofburghorburrh. On the opposite side of the valley, frowning across at Cranbrook, is Prestonbury Camp.With advantage the river may be followed down for several miles to Dunsford Bridge, and the opportunity is then obtained of gathering white heath which grows on the slopes. At Shilstone in Drewsteignton is the onlycromlechin the county. It is a fine monument. A few years ago it fell, but has been re-erected in its old position. After recent ploughing flints may be picked up in the field where it stands.Gidleigh merits a visit, the road to it presentingmany delicious peeps. Gidleigh possesses the ruin of a doll castle that once belonged to the Prouze family. The church contains a screen in good preservation. In the parish of Throwleigh is the interesting manor house Wanson, of which I have told a story in myOld English Home.But perhaps more interesting than manor houses are the old farm buildings in the neighbourhood of Chagford, rapidly disappearing or being altered out of recognition to adapt them to serve as lodging-houses to receive visitors.One such adaptation may be noticed in Tincombe Lane. An old house is passed, where the ancient mullioned windows have been heightened and the floors and ceilings raised, to the lasting injury of the house itself, considered from a picturesque point of view. A passable road leads up the South Teign to Fernworthy, a substantial farm in a singularly lone spot. But there was another farm even more lonely at Assacombe, where a lateral stream descends to the Teign, but it has been abandoned, and consists now of ruin only. Near it is a well-preserved double stone row leading from a cairn and finishing at a blocking-stone.At Fernworthy itself is a circle of upright stones and the remains of several stone rows sorely mutilated for the construction of a newtake wall. In a tumulus near these monuments was found an urn containing ashes, with a flint knife, and another, very small, of bronze or copper, and a large polished button of horn. On Chagford Common, near Watern Hill, is a double pair of rows leading from a cairn and asmall menhir, to blocking - stones. Although the stones of which they are composed are small, the rows are remarkably well preserved.It will repay the visitor to continue his ascent of the South Teign to the Grey Wethers, two circles of stone, of which, however, many are fallen. Here exploration, such as has been conducted at Fernworthy circle, shows that the floors are deep in ashes, and this leads to the surmise that the circles were the crematories of the dead who lie in the cairns and tunnels in the neighbourhood.Near the source of the North Teign is Teignhead House, one of the most solitary spots in England. A shepherd resides there, but it is not for many winters that a woman can endure the isolation and retain her reason.And yet there remain the ruins of a house in a still more lonely situation. The moorman points it out as Browne's House.Although, judging from the dilapidation and the lichened condition of the stones, one could have supposed that this edifice was of great antiquity, yet it is not so by any means. There are those still alive who remember when the chimney fell; and who had heard of both the building, the occupying, and the destruction of Browne's House. Few indeed have seen the ruin, for it is in so remote a spot that only the shepherd, the rush-cutter, and the occasional fisherman approach it.On the Ordnance Survey, faint indications of inclosures are given on the spot, but no name isattached. Yet every moorman, if asked what these
TAMERTON FOLIOT (cg) is a large village at the head of Tamerton Lake, a creek two miles long which opens into the Tamar. Although one can reach it by one of the frequent Plymouth Corporation buses, and it is steadily being approached by the suburbs of the city, it is a place of great interest and much beautiful scenery. The Celtic saints Indract and Dominic, and all their company, landed in the closing years of the 6th cent, at a port called Tamerunta, which can only be Tamerton Foliot. St. Budoc, too, landed in the same creek, and founded
a church at Budshead (now in St.Budeaux). The manor of Tamerton had come to the Foliots by King Stephen’s time (1135-54), according to Risdon, when Sampson Foliot made his dwelling at Warleigh, close to the confluence of Tavy and Tamar. Warleigh may have been a watch-place , when Cornwall was still unconquered, Warleigh Point being admirably suited to that purpose. It came to the Coplestones by marriage in 1472. At some time in the 16th century, the Coplestones left their ancestral home of Coplestone, near Crediton, preferring to live in this beautiful spot by the tidal waters of the Tavy, and here they rebuilt the ancient Foliot house towards the end of thecentury. The South front of the house still keeps in the main its Elizabethan elevation, but the house was
extensively remodelled in the late 18th century, and early 19th, and part of it is in a Strawberry Hill Gothic style. It is now a hospital. Warleigh possesses one of the few dovecotes to be found in
Devon, a circular structure of brickwith over 500 nest-holes, c. 1600 in date. Blaxton or Blackstone was a Domesday manor. The ferry across the Tavy, from here to Bere Ferrers, is referred to as early as 1263. Maristow, now a large mansion in a park, was originally “ Martin’s-stow.” There was a quay here in the 13th century. We read in 1294 of silver being shipped here, from the Bere Ferrers mines over the river, up to London. The present house dates mainly from 1740. The Maristow estate was bought for £65,000 by Sir Manasseh Lopes in 1798 from the Heywood heiresses, and has continued in the Lopes family (Lords Roborough) since. The house, in exceedingly beauti ful grounds, is now a home for aged clergy. Ashleigh Barton is a late 15th century- 17th century, farmhouse. It has a plaster overmantel depicting the sacrifice of Isaac, similar to the one at Alston in Malborough. Tamerton Foliot church (St. Mary) is chiefly I5th-cent., much rebuilt. There are some interesting monuments.That to a Georges of Warleigh and his wife is I4th-century, with two good effigies.
The monument to John Coplestone of Warleigh and his wife, erected 1617, depicts two kneeling figures facing each other, with their ten children kneeling below.Gilbert Foliot, Bishop of London (1163-87) and the great opponent of Becket, was probably born at Warleigh. He exercised great influence over Henry II until his death in 1187.

Stowford is a village and civil parish in the district of West Devon in the English county of Devon. It is situated to the west of Dartmoor. Stowford is about 1 mile west of the village of Lewdown and about 11 miles south-west of Okehampton in Devon and 7 miles east of Launceston in Cornwall. The parish is very rural, and includes the hamlet of Sprytown.

The parish church is dedicated to St John the Baptist and is around 14th-15th century in date. The church was restored and the north aisle rebuilt by Sir Gilbert Scott in 1874.
An ancient stone stands at the entrance to the churchyard. It stands 170cm out of the ground, and contains an inscription dated to the 8th-11th century. The inscription reads "GUNGLEI" or "GUG.LES" and is thought to be a personal name.
The Harris Baronetcy, of Stowford, near Launceston, in the County of Devon, was created in the Baronetage of England on 1 December 1673 for Arthur Harris ,Member of Parliament for Okehampton between 1671 and 1681. The Harris residence was at Hayne House in the parish of Stowford. The title became extinct on his death in 1686.
West Devon
Stowford
Grid Ref :SX4329087010Summary :Inscribed stone in Stowford churchyard, 8th-11th century date. More information :(SX 43298701) Inscribed stone (NR) (1)
An inscribed stone stands at the entrance to the churchyard at Stowford. It stands five feet six inches out of the ground and the stone is fine-grained, not a granite. The inscription, which was rubbed on not cut, reads GUNGLEI and is in lettering of about 600 AD or a little later , X 43288700 as described; the inscription is still clearly visible.
This is a pilar stone of 5th-11th century date. The text reads: `[G]U[.G]LE[S] where the bracketed letters are legible but unusual in form. Various readings of the text have been suggested, and it is presumably a personal name. The text uses insular script suggesting a date of the 8th-11th centuries. (5)Harris. An Ogham stone— an early Christian monument to one Gun-glei—stands at the churchyard gate. Hayne itself was rebuilt by Wyatville in 1810 in what Baring-Gould dismisses forthwith as “ cockney Gothic,” but it is good of its kind. It was the seat of the Harrises from Henry V III’s reign until 1864. Milford and Spry town, now farmhouses, were Domesday manors. itself was rebuilt by Wyat 1810 in what Baring-Gould dismisses forthwith as “cockney Gothic,” but it is good of its kind. It was the seat of the Harrises from Henry VIIPs reign 1864. Milford and Sprytown, now farmhouses, were Domesday manors. Shepherds is a good 16th-century farm
SUTCOMBE is a remote parish with an interesting church (St. Andrew). It has retained a simple I2th-cent. South doorway, but the building is otherwise entirely of late 15th- to early i6th-century. date, with a certain amount of alteration, especially to the windows, in the 17th century. There are a considerable number of late medieval floor-tiles, a 16th-cent. pulpit, and an exceptionally
good collection of well-carved 16thcentury bench-ends, chiefly heraldic. The granite arcade, circa 1500, is graceful. The rood-screen is well restored, with portions of the original screen in the
lower panels; and there is some medieval glass in the E. window of the Thuborough aisle. The whole church is attractive and well cared for, and is full of atmosphere: granite and oak give the feeling of the interior. Thuborough was a Domesday estate: cent. rebuilding, except the tower and lead-covered broach spire, which remain from the early I4th-cent. church.The spire is one of three medieval spires in this district, the other two being at Braunton and Barnstaple. The fittings of the church are of exceptional interest, most notable being the stone pulpit 1490 which retains some of its original colour and is freely and beautifully carved and ornamented. The rood-screen, well restored by Pearson in the 1880s, is of about the same date, and is singularly fine and perfect. The font cover is a good example of Renaissance carving of early i6th-cent. date, and above this is a richly decorated tester or canopy. Notice the monument to Charles son of john Cutcliffe of Damage (1670), surmounted by a beautiful oval portrait in oils, which has been attributed to Lely but is more probably the work of James Gandy 1619-89, a pupil of Vandyke.
Hearson, Stowford, and Marsh were formerly “mansions.” Stowford is the traditional birthplace—and there is no reason to doubt the tradition—of St. Urith, who was martyred at Chittlehampton in the 8th cent. The present house is in part medieval. Ernes-borough was an ancient freehold estate, first recorded in 1175, and taking its name from the “eagles hill” Shepherds is a good 16th-century farm Hearson, Stowford, and Marsh were formerly “mansions.” Stowford is the traditional birthplace— and there is no reason to doubt the tradition— of St. Urith, who was martyred at Chittlehampton in the 8th century. The present house is in part medieval. Ernesborough was an ancient freehold
STOWFORD church (St. John) has a most attractive interior, although restored by Sir Gilbert Scott in 1874, when the N. aisle was added. The woodwork was all done at this time, but, being copied from older isle. There is a good incised slate monument to John Richards TALATON lies in a neat, park- like landscape. The church (St. James) was rebuilt, except the tower, porch, E.
wall, and vestry in 1859-60, but is still worth seeing. The West tower is good. There are excellent wagon roofs with carved ribs and bosses, a few medieval bench-ends, and a fine I5th-century.
Escot, first recorded in 1227, is built site of Sir Walter Yonge’s mansion, finished c. 1688. There is a tradition that John Locke, the philosopher often visited Yonge at Escot, and that he planted certain clumps of beeches in the park. The present house built about 1810. Escot was formed separate ecclesiastical parish in 1840.
TAMERTON FOLIOT is a large village at the head of Tamerton Lake, two miles long which opens into Tamar. Although one can reach it by one of the frequent Plymouth Corporation buses, and it is steadily being approached by the suburbs of the city, been a watch-place as Cornwall was still unconquered, Warleigh Point being admirably suited to that purpose. It came to the Coplestones by marriage in 1472. At sometime in the 16th cent, the Coplestones left their ancestral home of Coplestone, near Crediton, preferring to live in this beautiful spot by the tidal waters of the Tavy, and here they rebuilt the ancient Foliot house towards the end of the century. The S. (principal) front of the house still keeps in the main its Elizabethan elevation, but the house was extensively remodelled in the late 18th cent, and early 19th, and part of it is in a Strawberry Hill Gothic style. It is now a hospital. Warleigh possesses one of the few dovecotes to be found in Devon, a circular structure of brick with over 500 nest-holes, c. 1600 Blaxton or Blackstone was a Domesday manor. The ferry across the Tavy, from here to Bere Ferrers, is referred to as early as 1263.
Maristow, now a large mansion park, was originally “ Martin’s-stow.” There was a quay here in the 13th century . We read in 1294 of silver being shipped here, from the Bere Ferrers mines over
the river, up to London. The some interesting monuments. That to a Gorges of Warleigh and his wife is I4th-century, with two good effigies. The monument to John Coplestone of Warleigh and his wife, erected 1617, depicts two kneeling figures facing each other, with their ten children kneeling below. Gilbert Foliot, Bishop of London (1163-87) and the great opponent of Becket, was probably born at Warleigh. He exercised great influence over Henry II until his death in 1187.
TAVISTOCK is the most delightful town in West Devon, and perhaps the most attractive of all the inland towns of the county. Much of it is built of a green volcanic ash from quarries at Hurdwick, about 1.5 m. North of the town, a stone which also appears frequently in the medieval churches of the surrounding countryside. The town stands mostly on the N. side of the river
Tavy, itself a decorative feature of the town-scene, and at the East end of a large parish— known as Tavistock Hamlets which extends all the way to the Tamar. The scenery of the parish is of great variety and beauty, not excluding the abandoned mining landscape at Blanchdown on the West above the Tamar. This is another of those great Devonshire parishes, so full of views, attractive present appearance and character. Between them they owned the town from 974 until 1911. A small community existed here before the abbey came. On the hillside about 1 mile NE. of the town is an irregular earthwork known as the Trendle, which has yielded evidence of a late Celtic settlement. Later, possibly in the early 8th cent., the Saxons occupied the lower ground beside the brawling Tavy, and founded the that gives the place its name. By the time the Benedictine Abbey was founded about the year 974, a hamlet existed at Tavistock, with its own chapel, which stood near the NW. corner of the present inner market. The establishment of the abbey, which became the largest and wealthiest in the South-West, naturally gave a great impetus to the village. In 1105 the abbot obtained for it a weekly market, which is still held on Fridays, and in 1116 a three-day fair was added, on the eve, feast, and morrow of St. Rumon (29-31 August). Some time before 1185, probably during the abbacy of Walter (1155-68), the final step was taken of detaching an area of some 325 acres from the vast rural manor in order to set up a borough. The immediate stimulus to the creation of a borough was almost certainly the “ tin
Bocheland is of Saxon origin and means "Royal land held by charter".
Eggbuckland Location within Devon Population 13,351 (2011)
District Plymouth Shire county Devon Region South West Country England .
Eggbuckland was a small village a few miles north of Plymouth. During the reconstruction of Plymouth many new suburbs were built and soon a new estate was built within one mile to the south east of Eggbuckland. During the 1970s the areas in between and surrounding the old village were all developed and the whole area is now referred to by the name Eggbuckland. The development of the A38 just south of Eggbuckland in the 1980s led to the area becoming very popular with commuters.
Bocheland is of Saxon origin and means "Royal land held by charter". The Domesday Book of 1086 recorded that this manor was held by the King, William of Normandy,
but was granted to the Saxon Heche or Ecca, thus the land was known as Heche or Ecca's Bocheland. This was the site of a Saxon church which was replaced by the present church of St Edward in 1470. The village was held by the Royalist Cavaliers during the Civil War against the Parliamentarian Roundheads and was badly damaged. During the 19th century the area was host to new Palmerston Forts built as part of a northern defense line around Plymouth. Much of the structures remain but are privately owned and used for differing purposes. Over time the name has been corrupted and by 1685 was Egg Buckland. By 1902, it was one word - Eggbuckland although the older usage is still seen around the city. In the 1870s, the original village was described thus in John Marius Wilson's Imperial Gazetteer of England and Wales: EGG-BUCKLAND, or Buckland-Egg, a parish in Plympton-St. Mary district, Devon; on the Dartmoor railway, adjacent to the Tavistock railway, and near the river Plym, 3 miles NNE of Plymonth. It contains Crabtree hamlet, and part of Knackers-Knowle village; and its post town is Knackers-Knowle, Devon. Acres, with Laira-Green, 3, 304; of which 100 are water. Real property, £8, 933; of which £68 are in quarries, and £36 in railways. Pop., 1, 348. Houses, 272. The property is much subdivided. Widey Court here was the headquarters of Prince Maurice during his siege of Plymouth, and was visited by the king. The living is a vicarage in the diocese of Exeter. Value, £474.* Patron, the Lord Chancellor. The church is ancient: consists of nave, south aisle, and chancel, with a tower; and is in fair condition. Charities, £28.[2]
Devon is mineral rich , rich in agricultural produce , rich in antiquities , rich in coastal activities , the center of the old Kingdom of Dumnonia , free from Saxon domination much longer than elsewhere , many undiscovered Roman stories , the Home for emperor Vespasian
Les mines de l’argent en Devon
dans le Moyen Age
développement, transportation, la fonderie et le raffinerie Silver production and deadwork costs, Bere Ferrers, 1301-1317 (Exchequer Accounts). £2,000.00 £1,800.00 £1,600.00 £1,400.00 £1,200.00 £1,000.00 £800.00 £600.00 £400.00 £200.00 £0.00 1301 1302 1303 1304 1305 1306 1307 1308 1309 1310 1311 1312 1313 1314 1315 1316 1317 Par exemple - l’impact de travail de développement sur production en le premier parte du 14eme siècle Deadwork costs Silver production Et les techniques de fonderie les minéraux plomb/argent en Devon dans le Moyen Age Introduction • Par conséquent nous avons beaucoup de documentation pour aspects certains de leurs exploitation - en particulier travail de développement, transportation, le fonderie et le raffinerie • mais très peu information de l’extraction de minerai, où les mineurs furent payé en contrat • et le roi anglais ne fournirait pas logement ou nourriture pour les miniers donc, de cet, nous ne avons pas rapport. • Donc nous effectuai une étude du paysage minière – La topographie des mines – Le modèle des champs – Le modèle de site d’occupation – L’identité des sites de fonderie et les sites d’administration Les travaux des mines vers le nord Les galléries exhaure médiévales Le mine 19eme siècle « South Tamar Consols » Les travaux des mines Lockridge Hill Whitsam Down Furzehill South of Cotts (Birch Mine) Cleave Wood Deux lignes parallèles de petites puits et les haldes associé « shallow shaft mounds » - peut-être 15eme siècle Un aire des stériles, probablement 18/19eme siècle mais plus agité Un exemple de la prospection des travails de terre dans Cleave Wood Les haldes de un puits 18/19eme siècle - exploitation profond sous les travaux médiévales L’évidence des cartes historique « tithe award » et la prospection pour un fourneau 18eme siècle Les travaux de la mine - Furzehill Carte historique de 1737 Principalement 19eme siècle Un puits sur une gallérie exhaure médiévale, peut être 14eme siècle L’introduction des pompes actionnées par eau dans le 15eme siècle Une cours d’eau 16km longue, avec galeries et coupes, que traversé l’arête entre les rivières Lumburn / Tavy et le Tamar
Wolfram mining in Devon holds a significant place in the region's history. During the 19th and 20th centuries, the county was a prominent producer of the mineral, also known as tungsten. The mining operations were centered around Dartmoor and the surrounding areas, contributing to the local economy and shaping the landscape.
Wolfram has played a crucial role in various industries, particularly during times of conflict. Its high melting point and density made it a valuable material for creating armor-piercing projectiles during both World Wars. The demand for this mineral led to a boom in mining activities, attracting workers from different parts of the country. Today, the remnants of these mining operations can still be seen as a testament to Devon's rich industrial heritage.
The earliest reference to the shire by name is to be found in the Anglosaxon Chronicle under the year 851, when “ the Alderman Ceorl
with the men of Defenasoir fought the heathen army at Wicganbeorg and after making great slaughter obtained the victory .”
The history of Devon holds fascinating tales waiting to be unraveled by historians. One such intriguing figure is the Alderman Ceorl, whose legacy continues to captivate the minds of history enthusiasts. Known for his influential role in the governance of Devon, the Alderman Ceorl played a crucial part in shaping the region's political landscape, leaving an indelible mark that resonates to this day. Digging into his life and achievements offers a deeper understanding of the rich history that Devon boasts.
The Alderman Ceorl's contributions were varied and significant, ranging from championing local policies to fostering economic growth in Devon. His commitment to public service and tireless efforts in the development of the region paved the way for prosperity and progress. Exploring the Alderman Ceorl's life paints a vivid picture of the challenges faced by Devon in the past, offering valuable insights into the socio-political dynamics of the era. For historians seeking a deeper comprehension of Devon's history, delving into the life and times of the Alderman Ceorl is an essential journey to undertake.
In 894 the form Defnum occurs , Defenum in 897, and Defenun in a charter of 955. Somewhat earlier , in 823 , the Chronicle speaks of “ the men of Devon ” as Defnas.
This tribal name was transferred, as in several other English counties, In the territory inhabited by the tribe.
Exquisite Garden of Herbs quotes a 16th-century receipt
“ To enable one to see the fairies ,”
a charm I never saw written down, though one very similar was told me over thirty years ago by an old woman in the West Country.
As in Miss Rohde’s version,
Rosewater and Marigold water , herbs and flowers gathered to the East, played their part, but first in importance — or perhaps first in my memory — was, thyme and grass from a fairy ring.
I often wanted to test its magical properties , but never succeeded in waking at dawn.
According to my informer, dawn, or just before set of full moon, was the correct hour at which to make one’s first bow to the little unseen folk.
At that time of my life the inner wonder of her beliefs and friendship with the fairies— which none of her neighbours seemed to doubt— was just as it should be, and nothing much out of the ordinary.
Now, when I could better appreciate it and have no unsympathetic nursemaid to scoff at pleadings to be allowed a hedgehog in bed to keep me awake on important business, the old lady sleeps forever, and the wood where she said the fairies could be found was cut down in 1916.
To have missed collecting all the details for preparing such a truly content-giving charm still makes me “monstrous melancholy” ; old adjectives, “prodigious,” “vastly,” and their like, express better than modern words the seriousness of such a loss.
The loss of enjoyment and belief in ancient charms and customs, not to mention courtesies, has spread like a pest amongst country-folk since Trippers “boomswisshed” into their midst,
Trippers ready to believe that their name denotes: a rider in bangs, a litter distributor, one willing to murder flowers and behead wild rosebuds with paper streamers: not “one who walks nimbly, or dances with light feet.” Motor horns seem to be “The passing bell, also called the soul bell, ” sounding the knell of better days.
The above paragraph was gently censored by one with a knowledge of “ Gardens and their Godly treasure to be found therein” that ranks him kin to Thomas Hill, who wrote as finale to The Profitable Art of Gardening, “The favour of God be with thee always.”
At his suggestion I add a quotation from Grose: 4
“ The passing Bell was antiently rung for two purposes, one to bespeak the Prayers of all good Christians for a Soul just departing; the other to drive away evil Spirits who stood at the Bed’s foot, and about the House, ready to seize their prey, or at least to molest and terrify the Soul in its passage: but by the ringing of that Bell (for Durandus informs us Evil Spirits are much afraid of Bells) they were kept aloof and the Soul like a hunted Hare gained the start or what is by Sportsmen called Law.” Even if many of the old Contentments are gone beyond recall, we can, as he says, loudly “ring the funerall peale” over such fiendish customs as the games of “Mumble Sparrow” and “Cat in Bottle”— inflicting intense suffering on helpless animals.
The charm and sheer word magic of most of the old writers incline one to forget that the Country Contentments of our ancestors generally were balanced by discontentments.
The New Art and Mystery of Gossiping and early issues of The Tatler and Spectator hint that 17th- and 18th-century Housewives were faced with difficulties similar to the troubles of a Maisonette wife or Flat-wife of to-day. 5
The Blackdown Rings are the earthworks of anIron Agehill fortnear the hamlet of Hazelwood inDevon,England.
The fort is situated on a hilltop approximately 185 metres (607 ft) above sea level, in a commanding position above theRiver Avon.
Archaeological discovery of tin ingots at the River Erme
estuary wreck such that the local area was a significant tin trading port in ancient times ; it is unclear whether the ingots date from the Iron Age or Sub-Roman periods, however this discovery so close to Burgh Island has drawn comparisons withDiodorus Siculus1C BCE text , more often associated withSt Michaels MountinCornwall;
"At this time we shall treat of the tin which is dug from the ground. Those who dwell near Belerium, one of the headlands of Britain, are especially fond of strangers, and on account of their trade with the merchants they have a more civilized manner of living. They collect the tin after the earth has been skillfully forced to yield it. Although the land is stony, it has certain veins of earth from which they melt and purify the metal which has been extracted. After making this into bars they carry it to a certain island near Britain called Ictis. For although the place between is for the most part covered with water, yet in the middle there is dry ground, and over this they carry a great amount of tin in wagons. . . . Thence the merchants carry into Gaul the tin which they have bought from the inhabitants. And after a journey of thirty days on foot through Gaul, they convey their packs carried by horses to the mouths of the Rhone River."
Though the early history of the island is unclear, however it is mentioned in early records and on maps as St Michael's Island. Later the name changed to Borough Island, eventually being corrupted to Burgh. As late as 1947 anOrdnance Surveymap refers to the island as Borough Island. In 1908 apostcardproduced by Stengel & Co Ltd of London[4]referred to it as Burr Island. A map published in 1765 shows "Borough or Bur Isle".
The remains of the former chapel
It is believed a monastery was established on the island, most of the remains of which may lie beneath the current hotel. The ancient Pilchard Inn may have started life as the guest lodgings for the monastery.
SOUTH WEST DARTMOOR: Lowery Cross and Burrator Halt
Get a new angle on Burrator Reservoir along an old railway track and enjoy the spectacular views on this fairly level and easy going walk...
DISTANCE: 2.5 miles (easy walk, fairly level all the way)
NEAREST REFRESHMENTS: Burrator Inn or Meavy
FACILITIES: As above.
CAR PARKING: Small car park at Lowery Cross.
Burrator reservoir is a beautiful landmark on the moor and also a popular area for weekend recreation. I decided to delve into its history a little with an easy walk which takes in part of the dismantled Burrator railway.
Starting at Lowery Cross car park (SX 5487 693) keep the trees behind you and follow the path around Yennadon Down. On your right is the small old mining settlement of Dousland and past this is a patchwork of fields with a view to the horizon. Continue on and Plymouth Sound will be in front of you looking tantalisingly close enough to touch.
Also to your right are some remains of the old mining industry and disused quarries, some now just odd-shaped mounds as the landscape has reclaimed them. You will come out onto another path, running right to left, close to the disused mine (SX 543 684), so carry straight on keeping the granite wall to your right.
The path will take you past some houses, also on your right, after which you will find a water trough, then you will easily spy the dismantled railway track the other side of this.
Go left and you’ll find it’s a wide, easy-to-walk track with remnants of the past scattered along it. The road to the reservoir also runs parallel to it. After a short while you will join another path, just above the quarry car park at SX 550 677. To your right the path will link to a different footpath that will take you down to the dam itself.
Otherwise go left along the railway track and you will soon see glints of metal through the trees, down on your right. These eventually give way to glints of water and then you are rewarded with a fantastic view across the reservoir and dam.
Burrator dam was built in 19th century in response to the population growth of Plymouth when the existing leat system couldn’t cope with demand. Work began in 1893 and took five years to complete. The granite for it came from a quarry 200 metres upstream so when, 25 years later in 1923, work began to raise the dam an alternative site was found. This is now the quarry car park which you just passed.
The railway was opened in 1924 and was initially just for the dam workers but was later opened to the public. As you continue along the path you will spot some steps to your left and right. This is Burrator Halt, the old station. The railway closed in 1956.
If you want to see an image of the old railway track click here
As you approach a gate on the path you’ll hear the sound of rushing water and will just be able to make out the top of a waterfall. It is possible to get a closer look, however this is not for the faint-hearted as it’s very steep and muddy!
Go through the gate, then another one and you’ll should now be in a beautiful forested area which is part of Peekhill Plantation. Before you get a a footbridge over the road veer off left as the car park is the other of this. Follow the old tracks up through this peaceful forest and when you come out the other side you will spot a boundary stone on the wall. It is marked PCWW 917 and is a boundary marker for South West Water.
If you’re looking for a cross at Lowery Cross you won’t find one -it has disappeared into the mists of time. However if you’re feeling a little hard done by there is Yennadon Cross (SX 545 694) at the junction of the B3212 which you can view as you drive home.
Yennadon Cross (SX 545 694) is believed to have been an old marker stone for Buckland Abbey and is missing it’s arm due to some time spent as a gatepost.
TheRiver Meavyis a river in the southwest part of Dartmoor in Devon in south-west England. It runs entirely in the national park and connects Burrator Reservoir to theRiver Plym.
The river is 15.9 kilometres (9.9 mi) long, and flows in a generally south-westerly direction throughout its course. It rises at Meavy Head, close to Princetown, and flows across Walkhampton Common, through Norsworthy and adjacent plantations, and into Burrator Reservoir. It leaves the reservoir at the main dam, and flows past the village of Meavy before joining the River Plym at the upper end of Bickleigh Vale. The entirety of the river is inside Dartmoor National Park.
Most of the valley surrounding the river's southern section is wooded, and has been described as a semi-neutral ancient woodland. The north section, beyond Burrator Reservoir, is less covered as it is towards the centre of Dartmoor and features several rock tors near the river.
The river is believed to named after an Old English word, meaning "lively stream". The village of Meavy is in turn named after the river.
Drake's Leat was a watercourse constructed in the 16th century to transport drinking water from the River Meavy towards Plymouth. Burrator Lodge was built in 1896 for the reservoir owner. It is now a Grade II listed building. In 2015, the property was put on the market.
The river is popular for canoeing south of Burrator Reservoir, and is considered an easier course than the upper sections of the River Plym, which are some of the most challenging in Dartmoor. Despite the presence of the damn at Burrator, there is generally a sufficient flow of water.
An enclosed place— literally a fenced or hedged area
A defended homestead or settlement— often with a palisade
A farmstead that could grow into a village or manor
A Saxon foundation, or
A Saxon renamingof an older site they took over.