Caerleon Roman Fortress
and Baths encompass the archaeological ruins and sites of the Legionary Fortress of Isca Augusta spread across the town of Caerleon, near the city of Newport ,South Wales. Notable for being one of only three permanent legionary fortresses from Roman Britain (the others being York and Chester), Caerleon has provided a unique opportunity to study the archaeology of a Roman Legionary fortress, less affected by the medieval and subsequent urban activity of most such fortresses. Having attracted the attention of eminent archaeologists throughout the 20th century it now has four major public archaeological venues, including the museum run by Cadw, called 'Caerleon Roman Fortress and Baths' (Welsh: Caer a Baddonau Rhufeinig Caerllion), featuring the excavated fortress bath-house. Also open to the public is the most complete excavated amphitheatre in Britain, a series of barracks and the National Roman Legion Museum. The fortress and its surrounding civil settlement have been the subject of continuing major archaeological investigations into the 21st century.
Background and history
Main articles: Isca Augusta and Caerleon
Roman Wales was the farthest point west that the Roman Empire in Roman Britain extended to, and as a defence point, the fortress at Caerleon built in AD 75 was one of only three permanent Roman Legionary fortresses in Roman Britain. It was occupied and operational for just over 200 years.
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Roman Fortress Baths (Museum)
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Caerleon Amphitheatre
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National Roman Legion Museum
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Area of excavated Roman Barracks
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Barracks in the area of Myrtle Cottage
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Barrack Blocks in the former Garden of The Firs
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Area behind Caerleon House: site of thePorta Praetoria, the main entrance to the fortress.
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Area off White Hart Lane: Officers quarters and SW Barrack Blocks
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Area between Priory Hotel and Priory Lodge, identified as Tribune Houses and military warehouses
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Back Garden of No 4 Museum Street, with a Tribune's house, section of road and the north end of the Bath complex
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Site of the residence of theprimus pilus, the senior centurion of the legion, in the grounds of the Endowed School.
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Site of domestic structures identified as Tribunes' houses, fronting onto the road now called Broadway
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Large building thought to be iron-working workshops under the Primary School playing fields
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Old Vicarage Garden: site of the central courtyard and basilica of the headquarters (principa) of the Roman fortress
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Town Hall Park: possible location of thePraetorium, the residence of the legate
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Barracks block site in the grounds of the Health Clinic
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Goldcroft Common Barracks block site
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Grounds of the Nursing Home: Continuation of the NE Barracks buildings
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Grounds of St Cadoc's Church: unexcavated site probably with workshops or graneries
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Part of thecanabaeat the former Ambulance Station Field
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Canabae(Caerleon Civil Settlement)
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Caerleon Civil Settlement: Area under Broadway Playing Fields
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Roman extra-mural baths under the bailey of the medieval castle
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Caerleon Civil Settlement: Site of Roman Building SE of Castle Street
Archaeological research
The earliest description of Caerleon's Roman ruins is in Gerald of Wales's 12th century Itinerarium Cambriae. He was fully aware of the Roman historical significance of Caerleon and also gives extensive archaeological detail. Much may be fanciful or drawn from other locations however, and the features were certainly not apparent by later centuries. But his description confirmed Caerleon as a notable historical site:
Caerleon means the city of Legions, Caer, in the British language, signifying a city or camp, for there the Roman legions, sent into this island, were accustomed to winter, and from this circumstance it was styled the city of legions. This city was of undoubted antiquity, and handsomely built of masonry, with courses of bricks, by the Romans. Many vestiges of its former splendour may yet be seen; immense palaces, formerly ornamented with gilded roofs, in imitation of Roman magnificence, inasmuch as they were first raised by the Roman princes, and embellished with splendid buildings; a tower of prodigious size, remarkable hot baths, relics of temples, and theatres, all inclosed within fine walls, parts of which remain standing. You will find on all sides, both within and without the circuit of the walls, subterraneous buildings, aqueducts, underground passages; and what I think worthy of notice, stoves contrived with wonderful art, to transmit the heat insensibly through narrow tubes passing up the side walls.
There are further indications that significant ruins or building survived into the medieval period. The vast stone complex of the fortress baths are thought to have been destroyed in the 13th century, and the ditch at 10 Mill Street was identified as still standing open in the Middle Ages. An engraving of 1783 shows a crumbling tower and Roman stonework.
Antiquarians
Through the 1840s some ad hoc excavations were made, which, along with finds from construction works culminated in the foundation of the Caerleon Antiquarian Association in October 1847, with the twin aims of carrying out excavations and providing a museum to house the finds. An early project, possibly even predating the new Association was an excavation of the extramural bathhouse. This was alongside the medieval castle motte, within its bailey, on land owned by John Jenkins and it was undertaken by John Edward Lee, who became the secretary and initial driving force of the Association.
New finds from Lee's excavation along with finds from construction work on a (never completed) railway cutting gave urgency to the idea of a museum. An early plan was to lease an old market building owned by Sir Digby Mackworth, 4th Baronet and the first chairman of the Association. The building incorporated 4 Roman pillars and when this building was deemed an impracticable location it was demolished and the pillars given for re-use inside a new building on a new site. The museum opened to the public in the summer of 1850, to display the recently found artefacts along with many items donated by the townspeople. It would eventually be expanded and become the National Roman Legionary Museum. Limited resources and structural difficulties meant all the society's efforts were rapidly taken up with the museum leaving little energy for further archaeological work.[7]
Lee also produced a catalogue of the museum contents, and added a first attempt at a history of the fortress.
In the 1890s the Bristol-based Clifton Antiquarian Club began excavating at nearby Caerwent and this had the effect of raising the profile of Roman archaeology in Monmouthshire as a whole.[7]
In the 1900s, another outside body, the 'Liverpool Committee for Excavation and Research in Wales and the Marches' began a program of excavations led by Robert Carr Bosanquet, including a corner turret of the fortress walls, a building near the Church, and in 1908 a preliminary excavation of the Amphitheatre, revealing some well-preserved walls and buttresses.
Archaeologists
1926-27: Amphitheatre.Since 1913 there had been a ‘Caerleon Amphitheatre Fund’, although it is unclear if this was a local initiative to try and get national funds or an external initiative to circumvent local inaction.[7]However, after the 1914-18 war it reformed as the ‘Caerleon Excavation Committee’ and gained momentum under the dynamic leadership of Mortimer Wheeler, recently appointed director the National Museum of Wales. It was able to acquire the amphitheatre site, and in 1926 work began on removing 30,000 tons of soil. Over 14 months, and under three different supervisors, they were able to expose the whole of the original flooring, entrances, retaining walls and banks of seating areas. First supervisor was V. E. Nash-Williams, who had worked with Mortimer Wheeler at Segontium. Mr Myers took over for 4 months, and for the remaining 8 months it was supervised by Mrs TC Wheeler, Mortimer's wife. When the work was completed the site was presented to the Office of Works for preservation as a national monument.
1927-29: Prysg Fieldwas purchased by the Caerleon Excavation Committee and digs over three summers under V. E. Nash-Williams revealed the western corner ramparts and extensive barracks blocks. Following the example of the amphitheatre, the Barracks footings (and reconstructed ground plans) were laid out as public parkland on completion of the excavations.
1929: 'The Mount': C Hawkes (also a veteran of the Segontium dig) began an excavation at ‘The Mount’, acquired that year by Col Atwood Thorne, and made available to the Excavation Committee. This revealed the ramparts at the eastern corner
The two 1920s digs confirmed what was until then considered to be a conjectural line for the fortress walls and established a construction sequence of a 75AD ditch with clay rampart, which was faced with stone 25 years later and had a continued occupation until the end of the third century. The Western Barracks buildings had been exposed and showed that the original timber barracks were replaced by stone, around 115 AD.
In 1930 the Caerleon Antiquarian Association agreed to lend, and subsequently hand over, their museum to the National Museum of Wales, having devoted 80 years to keeping the troublesome roof repaired. In 1987 the museum building was almost entirely demolished, retaining just the classical portico. In its place, and built of glass, steel and concrete, is the new and significantly expanded National Roman Legion Museum. In 2018 the building had to close for 13 months while essential roof repairs were carried out.
Post-war study
The 1970s saw a new wave of archaeological activity, culminating in the 1977 to 1981 excavation of the fortress baths by J. David Zienkiewicz. It is believed that the baths complex was the only stone-built building in the new fortress of 75 AD, which was otherwise timber-built initially. Although initially a rescue dig, significant parts of the Baths site were preserved in situ, and were first opened to the public in 1980 in the care of Cadw as a public archaeological attraction.
In the years 1984-90 the focus shifted outside the walls of the fortress to excavate areas of the canabae, the civil settlement that had grown up around the fortress. There had long been an awareness of extramural buildings, and some of the earliest excavations had looked at the medieval castle site, near the south-east gates. Property developments at an extensive site alongside Mill Street, on the north-east side of the fortress, provided an opportunity for more up to date archaeological methods to investigate the area and consider the status of the canabae as a whole. Led by Edith Evans, it demonstrated that the civil settlement was more extensive and varied than once thought. With the nearby town of Caerwent, plus civil settlements at Usk and Bulmore it was part of a settled romanised landscape, and over several centuries became a substantial garrison town. It was not promoted to regional capital status, as happened at York, but from the limited evidence available at both British and other examples, Caerleon's civil settlement in the 2nd and 3rd centuries would have looked recognisably comparable to most such fortress canabae.
In a long-established chronology for the fortress it was assumed the military had departed by the end of the third century. Mounting evidence of fourth century occupation was considered by Edith Evans in a wide-ranging review of 2004. She suggested a case for a reformed and reduced legionary presence into the fourth century, but stressed that the three options (Smaller fort, Smaller garrison or Civilian use only) were all possible explanations of the limited archaeological evidence.
From 2007 to 2010 Andrew Gardner of UCL and Peter Guest of Cardiff University led joint summer research and training excavations on Priory Field, in the south-west section of the fortress alongside a geophys survey of the open ground south and west of the fortress. The excavations focussed on a large square building fronting onto Broadway, that appears to have had Legionary storage functions.[15]Built early in the fortress's history, it collapsed or was demolished around 350, and the 2010 excavation unearthed thousands of finds including entire sets of Roman armour. A stone inscription was found that recorded that the building had been constructed by Flavius Rufus, possibly a first-generation Roman citizen who had risen to be Primus Pilus, the first ranked centurian of the II Augustan Legion. Cottages subsequently built on the same site were then occupied from 400 to 650 AD, revealing more of Caerleon's post-Legionary occupation.
In 2011 Peter Guest led a follow-up investigation of the area ('the Southern Canabae') between the Amphitheatre and the river Usk. The earlier geophysical survey had identified substantial structures south of the amphitheatres, which were examined using test trenches. They confirmed the location of a port fronting (and in places eroded by) the River Usk - only the second Roman Port known in Britain, the other being London. They also found three huge public buildings arranged around vast central courtyards. The largest was 150 metres (490 ft) by 120 metres (390 ft) with a central courtyard bigger than the area of the amphitheatre. The dig was featured in an episode of Timeteam (series 19 episode 9, 23 March 2012). The 'southern canabae' area appears to have been abandoned much earlier than the fortress. By the end of the 2nd century buildings were just being used to dump rubbish, so whatever its early functions, they ceased to be relevant within 125 years of the troops first arriving.[1]Analysis of the finds and excavations is still ongoing, but interim suggestions on the nature and purpose of these buildings indicate they could have been built in the very earliest phase of the fortress, although on a different alignment than the fortress walls. The test trenches leave most of the site unsampled, so the interpretation is necessarily uncertain. Amongst the possibilities considered, the buildings may have related to the administration of the legion or the area, and the courtyards might have been assembly yards for troops and animals arriving at the port.
Interior of the Roman Baths Museum
Roman Baths
The Roman Baths Museum lies within the fortress walls, close to the National Roman Legion Museum, and were the principal baths for the legion. The baths museum has a covered walkway over part of the remains of the military bath house. There was a frigidarium, tepidarium and caldarium, as well as an open-air swimming pool. The baths museum is administered by Cadw and includes projected imagery to re-create the scenes of Roman bathers.
Within a short walk of the baths museum are:
The most complete Roman amphitheatre in Britain Sections of the fortress walls, The only remains of a Roman legionary barracks on view anywhere in Europe at Prysg Field ,There were over 40,000 visitors to the Baths in 2012.
The Brythonic name Isca means "waters" The suffix Augusta , appears in the Ravenna Cosmography , and was an honorific title , taken from the legion stationed there. The place is commonly referred to as Isca Silurum to differentiate it from Isca Dumnoniorum and because it lay in the territory of the Silures tribe. However, there is no evidence that this form was used in Roman times. The later name, Caerleon, is derived from the Welsh for "fortress of the legion".
Excellent observation — you’ve put your finger on something that’s often glossed over: both Isca Silurum (Caerleon, on the River Usk in south Wales) and Isca Dumnoniorum (Exeter, on the River Exe in Devon) are not just “on rivers,” but on major tidal waterways that opened directly into the sea. That context really matters.
🌊 The Meaning of Isca
📍 Isca Silurum
📍 Isca Dumnoniorum
🌐 Wider Implications
✨ Consideration
So, when you see Isca Silurum and Isca Dumnoniorum, think less of “just rivers” and more of “the great waters”— estuarine gateways where land, tribe, and empire met. They were chosen precisely because they were liminal zones: inland enough to be defensible, but open enough to the sea to be supplied and connected.

The Dumnonii of Devon (and Cornwall) were not as advanced as their neighbours in Dorset and Somerset, nor as most other contemporary tribes of lowland Britain. They struck no coins, and for internal exchange seem to have relied on iron currency-bars, a hoard of which has been found at Holne Chase near Ashburton. These, whose value lay in the fact that they could be converted by any smith into implements or weapons, were made in several standard sizes. Coins of Gaulish and of other British peoples however have been found at Mount Batten (Plymouth), showing that some overseas trading existed long before the coming of the Romans.
Besides the use of the rivers, inland movement was possible along the ridgeways, which followed watersheds, avoiding valley forests and swamps. These tracks had been in use since early Bronze Age times, and ran close to many hill-forts. Some remain in use as roads today, and one forms a long stretch of the county border on Exmoor.
The Iron age produced most, if not all, of the earthwork forts which still crown hill-tops and clif1s in the Devon landscape. Their construction seems to have begun in the third century BC, in response to further waves of invasion, and to have continued with new building or strengthening for two hundred years. Few sites have yet been properly excavated, and the events of this period are at present less clear than, for example, in Dorset. Evidence suggests that successive invaders crossed the sea from Brittany, established themselves at first near the estuaries of the south coast, and then penetrated inland, either building forts themselves or causing the previous inhabitants to do so for protection. The earliest examples show a single line of rampart and ditch, either cutting off the neck of a headland (‘promontory fort’) or following the contour of a hill-top. The ramparts were often revetted with stone or turf or timber, to give a more perpendicular profile than is seen today. One such, Cranbrook above the upper Teign, was never finished, possibly because those building it were attacked and overwhelmed before they could do so.
Later forts were built or remodelled with two or more lines of rampart, following the introduction of sling-warfare from Brittany in the first century BC, and the outstanding example in Devon is Hembury near Honiton. This crowns a bold promontory with close-set double or triple lines, designed not for successive defence but to keep attackers at a distance where the defenders, shooting downhill, could reach them without being hit in return. Digging here has revealed stocks of sling-pebbles, signs of a stockade on the inner rampart, and timber platforms for slingers at the gates. This is one of a group in the south-east of the county, possibly built to resist the warlike Durotriges of Dorset, but equally possibly taken over and reconstructed by them— since Durotrigan pottery has been found in the later layers.
A peculiar type of defended settlement, found only in Devon and Cornwall, appeared in the first century BC. These were built on a slope rather than a hill-top, and had widely spaced concentric enclosures. One such, at Milber near Newton Abbot, has an almost rectangular centre, presumably for habitation. Two outer enclosures were probably for stock, while a larger but indefensible one may have been for cultivation. At Clovelly Dykes in North Devon is a similar example, probably representing a separate invasion by the same people by way of the Bristol Channel.
By no means all the Iron Age population lived in or near the forts, though their distribution on the map may be some guide to the most populated parts of the country at the time. The commonest type of settlement was probably in undefended farmsteads, and remained so throughout the Roman period; but these, unlike the forts, are difficult to trace. Most Iron Age farming in Devon was still mainly pastoral rather than arable, and many small ring-works may have served as cattle-enclosures rather than as defences.
The climate of the Iron Age was, comparatively cool and wet, making the higher ground previously used by Bronze Age people no longer habitable, while the valley soils had not yet been opened up by clearance and drainage. Most of the Iron Age population seems to have lived somewhere near the 500-foot (150-metre) contour.
The Dumnonii of Devon (and Cornwall) were not as advanced as their neighbours in Dorset and Somerset, nor as most other contemporary tribes of lowland Britain. They struck no coins, and for internal exchange seem to have relied on iron currency-bars, a hoard of which has been found at Holne Chase near Ashburton. These, whose value lay in the fact that they could be converted by any smith into implements or weapons, were made in several standard sizes. Coins of Gaulish and of other British peoples however have been found at Mount Batten (Plymouth), showing that some overseas trading existed long before the coming of the Romans.
Besides the use of the rivers, inland movement was possible along the ridgeways, which followed watersheds, avoiding valley forests and swamps. These tracks had been in use since early Bronze Age times, and ran close to many hill-forts. Some remain in use as roads today, and one forms a long stretch of the county border on Exmoor.
The Mayor of Saltash is an important personage :he takes precedence of the Mayor of Plymouth ,and by virtue of his office is also coroner for the borough of Plymouth . The Saltash corporation has jurisdiction over the waters of Plymouth Sound and its tributaries , and derives a considerable revenue from the buoys which it maintains there in . The Roman road, proceeding west from Exeter is a branch of theIcenhilde Way, crossed 'the Tamar at this point ; and the“ Statio Tamara ” of the Itineraries was no doubt at King ’s Tamerton , immediately above the river, on the Devonshire side.
The right of ferry at Saltash , temp . Edw.III ., was granted by the Black Prince , as Duke of Cornwall, during his delay at Plymouth in 1355 to a soldier who had been wounded in the French wars. See Sir Nicolas’s Hist, of Navy). An excursion up the Tamar, as far as the Weir-head , and Morwell Rock's is one of the most interesting in the county. Saltash is known for its fishermen, but more so for its fishwomen, who are celebrated for their prowess at the oar, and not unfrequently bear away the prizes at the different regattas. It was an ancient borough previous to the Reform Bill . It is not long since Plymouth was accounted a mean fishing town . Until the conveniency of the haven which without striking sail admitteth into its bosom the tallest ships that be where they ride safe in either of the two rivers, to take the opportunity of the first wind. Stuart Amos Arnold published an eighteenth-century navigation called The Merchant and Seaman’s Guardian in the British Channel . In it he gave detailed instructions to navigate into the port using the ancient system of seamarks -lining up landmarks by eye to chart a course through and past hazards In sailing into Plymouth take care of the Shovel and Tinker rocks ; on the former is sixteen, on the latter seventeen feet. The mark to sail in clear of them , is to keep Plymouth old church just open to the west of the citadel wall , sail in with this mark till you bring Withy hedge right up and down, and Drake’s island North West or open Mount Edgecombe ,when you may anchor in six and seven fathom of coarse sand If bound for Hamoaze, take care of the Winter Rockon which there is a beacon that lies between Drake’s Island and the main land Go between the rock and east part of the island give the island a good birth to clear the German Rock, which lies about two thirds of a cable’s length from the shore , and has a beacon on it ,as soon as you are abreast of the rock , which you will know by running the stone wall on Block-house point right up and down ,
steer over towards Mount Edgecombe till you open the Passagepoint and Blockhouse point; then haul over for Stone-pool , till you have hid Drake’s island behind Block-house point.
And to clear Passage-rock , there is beacon on it bring Stone-house on the Old Gunwharf crane ; run that mark on till you bring a large fall-gate gate ,that is on the hill above the Passagehouse , and the highest chimnies on the Passage-house in one ; then steer safely in for Hamoaze , and anchor in thirteen, fourteen, or fifteen fathom, or less water at pleasure.
These directions give a glimpse into a lost landscape, where patches of willow were significant enough to be landmarks visible from the Sound.
Once moored, what might the merchant expect on arrival ? A number of travel writers described seventeenth-century Plymouth, among them Celia Fiennes in her epic journey Through England on a Side Saddle in the Time of William and Mary in 1698.She was delighted by the appearance of the local stone , which she referred to as ‘marble’ which made Plympton‘ look white like snow’. From there she rode down the banks of the River Plym to the town itself.
Plymouth is two parishes called the old town and the new, the houses all built of this marble and the slatt [slate] at the top look like lead and glisters in the sun; there are no great houses in the town;
the streets OH! are good and clean, there is a great many though some are narrow ; they are mostly inhabited by seamen and those which have altaiies on the sea, for here up to the town there is a depth of water for shipps of the first rate to ride ; its great sea and dangerous .
ST. GERMANS Augustinian was the seat of a bishop in early times. The bishops of the Celtic churches were not hke those of the English; their sphere influence was not defined in the same way. In Ireland a bishop often lived in a monastic settlement and was inferior in rank to Abbot. In Cornwall the Bishop of St. Germans was probably the head of a monastery. Whether his jurisdiction extended over the whole of modern Cornwall, or whether there were not other bishops—at Bodmin, for instance—in the quite early days, is not clear. The first bishop who is named is one Conan, in AthelStan’s time (in 936), but he will not have been actually the first. The last was Burhwold. In 1050 the old See of St. Germans was united with Exeter by Edward the Confessor, and Bishop Leofric, who had formerly had Crediton for his See, moved thither. He is said to have placed canons in St. Germans. But it was Bartholomew, Bishop of Exeter in Henry II’s time, who made it a Priory of AuguStinian Canons. So it continued till the Suppression, when its annual value was somewhat under £250.The church has a certain cathedral flavour about it, in that it has two western towers; one is Norman, with an oCtagonal top of the thirteenth century. The other, the southern, has Norman base and Perpendicular upper Storey. Between them is a fine late Norman door. The nave has two Norman piers on the south side, and a Norman font is in the south tower. The original north aisle was pulled down in 1803 and replaced by the pew of the Eliots—the house of Port Eliot is immediately beside the church. The description in the Beauties of "England and Wales (Britton and Bray- ley; this volume was issued in 1801) is rather unwontedly minute and careful. I will quote a good part of it, and the visitor may be interested in comparing it with what he sees now. After describing the western arch it says : “ Over the arch is a pediment with a cross at the top resembling an heraldic cross patee within a circle; on each side is a small pointed window, and above these are three small narrow round-headed windows. [Above these is the main western gable.]“ The north aisle is divided from the nave by five short thick round columns, each connected with a half-pillar opposite to it in the north wall, by a low surbased arch.All the capitals of the columns are square, and curiously ornamented with Saxon (i.e. Norman) sculpture. The third from the weSt end is embellished with grotesque figures having bodies resembling dogs, opposed to each other, with their fore parts meeting at the angle of the capital in one head ;the upper part human, but the lower like a scollop-shell.Above these range six plain arches, some of them apparently of the same age and Style with those in the nave of St. Alban’s Abbey Church, Hertfordshire.“ In several windows of the aisle are a few coats of arms on painted glass.“ The architecture of the south aisle is very dissimilar from that on the
Archaeological discovery of tin ingots at the River Erme estuary wreck such that the local area was a significant tin trading port in ancient times ; it is unclear whether the ingots date from the Iron Age or Sub-Roman periods, however this discovery so close to Burgh Island has drawn comparisons with Diodorus Siculus 1C BCE text, more often associated with St Michaels Mount in Cornwall;
"At this time we shall treat of the tin which is dug from the ground.
Those who dwell near Belerium, one of the headlands of Britain, are especially fond of strangers, and on account of their trade with the merchants they have a more civilized manner of living. They collect the tin after the earth has been skillfully forced to yield it.
Although the land is stony, it has certain veins of earth from which they melt and purify the metal which has been extracted. After making this into bars they carry it to a certain island near Britain called Ictis. For although the place between is for the most part covered with water, yet in the middle there is dry ground, and over this they carry a great amount of tin in wagons. . . . Thence the merchants carry into Gaul the tin which they have bought from the inhabitants. And after a journey of thirty days on foot through Gaul, they convey their packs carried by horses to the mouths of the Rhone River."
Though the early history of the island is unclear, however it is mentioned in early records and on maps as St Michael's Island. Later the name changed to Borough Island, eventually being corrupted to Burgh. As late as 1947 an Ordnance Survey map refers to the island as Borough Island. In 1908 a postcard produced by Stengel & Co Ltd of London [4] referred to it as Burr Island.
A map published in 1765 shows "Borough or Bur Isle".
An enclosed place— literally a fenced or hedged area
A defended homestead or settlement— often with a palisade
A farmstead that could grow into a village or manor
A Saxon foundation, or
A Saxon renamingof an older site they took over.