Torre Abbey Land – Buckland in the Moor
Buckland in the Moor dates from Saxon times. By the 12thcentury, the lands at Buckland were held by the de Boklondes, who took their name from the manor. In the 13thcentury, the de Boklondes gave generously to the Canons of Torre Abbey (Torquay) who were a Premonstratensian Order (founded in 1196) and who originated from Prémontré in Northern France.
Between 1200 and 1250 a charter records this gift of lands to Torre Abbey :a gift for his own* soulandthatofAlice,hiswife,woodland, glebe and open moorland defined as extending from ‘Colreforda’ (Bridge on the Buckland Road), up the Millbrook orRuddylceaveWater, to a point just below Bowden Farm, thence to ‘Three Rocks’ at ‘Mahimorhead’, thence via ‘Fossatum’ (sunken way) to top of the hill, then down the southern side to ‘Blyndewyll’ (Blind Well orStidwellSpring) and south again to ‘Bolshayburna’ and then back (along the Buckland road) to the start.
*The author has discovered a further charter dated c. 1250 relating to Roger, Lord of Boklond, son of Roger de Boklond, thus one assumes Alice’s husband was called Roger (presumably the son).
Intriguedby the route, which was published alongside a sketch map in the Dave Brewer publication “Dartmoor Boundary Markers” (second edition) pages 104/5, the author, with this post has recorded a 21stcentury circumnavigation of the gift of lands to Torre Abbey given 800 years ago.
This sketch map shows the Torre Abbey Land in relation to modern roads, houses and walls. Ruddycleave Water between Birch Wood and Bagley Wood is on private property but the of the rest of the route can be followed exactly as per the map. The western portion of the circumnavigation can be achieved by using the lanes to from Bridge (‘Colreforda’) to Buckland then north to Elliot’s Farm and then east to Bowden.Approaching the ‘Torre Abbey Lands’ from the north, at the right angled wall corner south west of Cold East Cross (formerly known as Ham Hill Cross) there are two boundary stones. One is plain and the other is engrave ‘EFB 1837’ on one face.The ‘EFB 1837’ granite post marks the Buckland / Ashburton parish boundary. EFB stands for Edmund Pollexfen Bastard, who had the posts erected when he was owner of the manor of Buckland in the Moor. He was at one time the MP for Dartmouth (1812-1816) and was High Sheriff of Devon from 1834. The granite post also has an “A” (for Ashburton) and a “B” (for Buckland).The plain boundary stone is assumed was a parish marker which pre-dates the ‘EFB 1837’ markerWhitewalls Head was described as a “Great Heap of Stones” in 1709 and 1791 as part of the Buckland / Ashburton boundary. Just outside the Welstor wall and near the ‘1837’ stone are the remains of a large cairn, which is 10.5 m in diameter. Eric Hemery (1983), in High Dartmoor, page 665 comments that “South of the corner (of the boundary wall) is the outline of a cairn, the stones of which have been removed for building the wall”. Dave Brewer speculated that Whitewallshead may have related to two nearby reaves but the comments about a “Great Heap of Stones” and the Hemery observation leans the author to thinking the cairn is Whitewallshead. The cairn is located atSX73667 73770Marked on 19th century maps is a boundary stone atSX73580 73530. If this is the stone, it has been incorporated into the wall.Next to the Boundary Stone, which is incorporated into the wall are a pair of cairns, which are known as Wolstorrburrough or Two Burroughs. The name Wolstorrburrough was first mentioned in 1593 with Two Burroughs first being mentioned in 1613. They too, mark the Buckland / Ashburton boundary. The cairns are approx. 30m apart.The north cairn of Wolstorrburrough / Two Burroughs is very indistinct with a pit at the south end. Turner (1985-6) records that it has an inside diameter of 10.5 m. The wall has been part built over the bank on the eastern side of the stone ring. The south cairn is centred aroundSX73575 73531.The south cairn of Wolstorrburrough / Two Burroughs, as recorded by Turner (1985-6) is a much robbed cairn 16 m in diameter standing only 0.4 metres high. There are traces of an inner kerb circle 9 m in diameter. Like the north cairn, it too has the wall part built over the bank on the eastern section.The south cairn is centred at approx.SX73571 73492.AtSX73575 73466is a mystery stone which appear to be partly inscribed. The author asked for comments on this stone via the ‘Dartmoor Information Exchange’ facebook page and received feedback on it stating it could be : the beginnings of a Celtic Cross, or an axe head inscription (similar to those at stonehenge) or cup marks.Onto the boundary of the Torre Abbey Lands. The north east corner of the boundary (according to Dave Brewer) is where the north – south Buckland / Ashburton boundary wall meets a wall which runs perpendicular away from it to the east. At this point according to old map there is a Boundary Stone.The north east point of the Torre Abbey boundary. There are two possibilities for the marked Boundary Stone. This point is atSX73579 73361. Are either of these stones a former Buckland / Ashburton boundary marker.There is a lovely view of the Teign Estuary from the north east point of the Torre Abbey boundary.Moving south along the Torre Abbey Lands boundary towards Buckland Beacon is a very overgrown cairn known as One Borough (mentioned in 1709) or Hems Burrow (mentioned in 1837). It is centred at approx.SX73574 73252One Borough / Hems Burrow lies close to the highest point of Buckland common. There are several slabs which stand on a circular bank which is 19m across. The large central pit seems to have reached bedrock around half a metre below the surface.Buckland Beacon outcrop is surrounded by small, turf-covered stones indicating a possible tor cairn. Beacon fires have been lit here for centuries.Fabulous views to the south from Buckland Beacon. The wooded valley of the Dart is very prominent.A beacon fire, one of a chain lit at Buckland Beacon by the parishioners of Buckland in the Moor in celebration of his Majesties Silver Jubilee on May 6th, 1935. There is an inscribed stone near the summit, which is now barely discernibleAn old picture of the stone reveals the inscription reads:
1282 FT
BUCKLAND BEACON
A BEACON FIRE – ONE OF A CHAIN-
WAS LIT HERE BY THE PARISHIONERS
OF BUCKLAND-IN’THE-MOOR
IN CELEBRATION OF THEIR
MAJESTIES SILVER JUBILEE
MAY 6TH 1935
AND ALL OF THE PEOPLE SHOUTED
AND SAID GOD SAVE THE KINGThe only words discernible on the day this picture was taken is “Buckland Beacon”.One of the most recognisably curiosities on Dartmoor are the Ten Commandments Stones. The carving of the stones on Buckland Beacon commenced on 23rd July 1928. The work was undertaken by a W. Arthur Clements (from Exmouth) and whilst he was undertaking the work (he finished on 31st August 1928) he lived in a small hut on the fringe of the woods below the Beacon. The hut was little more than a cattle shed and the only light he had was a candle. He used to wash in a nearby stream. The Lord of the Manor of Buckland (Mr William Whitley) wished to commemorate the rejection of Parliament of the proposed new book of common prayer in 1928 as he considered it to be a “victory for the Protestants over popish trends” so he had the stones engraved. Source: Article by Judy Chard in Autumn 1988 edition of Dartmoor Magazine.Apparently Mr Whitley would often ride up to the Beacon with his dogs to see how Arthur Clements was progressing and gave him the nickname of Moses!After completing the ten commandments it was found that there was quite a big space left, so the third verse of the hymn “O God our Help in Ages Past” was engraved, which is considered quite profound given the location of the hills and tors of Dartmoor. It reads: “Before the hills in order stood, Or earth received her frame, From everlasting thou art God, To endless years the same”. Of note, there is also also a quotation after the fourth commandment, viz:
“But there’s a power, which man can wield,
When mortal aid is vain,
That eye, that arm, that love to reach,
The listening ear to gain,
That power is prayerThis standing stone is named (incorrectly) on some 19th century maps as “Gray Mare”. It is a plain stone and is correctly called the “Longstone” (ref: Mike Brown 1996).The Buckland 18th and 19th century accounts reference the “Gray Mare” stone as being south of Stidwell Spring (ref: Dave Brewer). This boundary stone lies to the north of Stidwell Spring atSX73554 73031.‘Blyndewyll’ was first mentioned circa 1200 when the Torre Abbey Lands were gifted. In 1771 the Buckland accounts referenced Blind Well as a “well to be divided”, that is between the commons of Buckland and Ashburton. A court case in 1771 stated the division had not occurred and it was ordered that there be provision of a “Moorstone Trough to be eighteen inches deep and which trough is to be fixed in or near the well and to contain at least thirty gallons”. On modern maps it is shown as Stidwell Spring atSX73520 72935.South of Stidwell Spring the “Gray Mare” Boundary Stone was located. The stone was moved / destroyed during the building of the Welstor newtake wall in 1771. The author estimates the location was approxSX73473 72807.A view descending the hill towards the Ashburton – Buckland road of Bowdley Cottage, an historic farmstead which is now known as Beacon Hill Farm. The upper building looks derelict from the angle of the picture.At Awsewell Corner / Awswell Gate on the Ashburton – Buckland road, at the south east corner of the Torre Abbey lands, there used to be a stone known variously over the centuries as Roswolstone (1593), Thrytle (1683), Drossillstone (1698), Drosell (1709) and Throsholl. Throstle is the Anglo-Saxon word for a song-thrush from the Germanic Drossell. Brewer considers this may have been the origins of the name of this stone as it was a point where song thrush cock birds may have declared their territory. At the time of the gift of the lands this location was called ‘Bolshayburna’. The approx location of the stone would have beenSX73340 72650.Moving west along the road towards Buckland on the southern boundary of Torre Abbey lands is the substantial Southbrook farmstead. The farmstead was mentioned in the Domesday Book where it stated that Mortain holds ‘Sotebrook’ from Ordulf. The first part of Southbrook on the south side of the road is a barn and horse-engine house, which now have been converted into self-contained flats. The author met the owners in the village who stated part of the horse mill is still in situ.Southbrook appeared in the Torre Abbey cartulary (circa 1200) where the name was spelt ‘Suthbrok’. The farmhouse probably dates from mid 19th century.On the north side of the road is the old school house. The school was built by the Bastard family (the Lords of the Manor) and was closed prior to 1914.On north west building of Southbrook (closest to Buckland), there is a ‘Victoria’ letterbox. The location isSX72493 72966The hamlet ‘Bridge’ as marked on modern OS Maps. At the time of the Torre Abbey lands gift this was called ‘Colreforda’ and is where Ruddycleave Water passes under the Ashburton – Buckland road on its was to meet the Dart to the south. Bridge cottage on the right is on the site of a former woollen mill.‘Colreforda’ – There were formerly two mills here, one on either side of the Ruddycleave Brook (formerly the Mill Brook). Ruddycleave Cottage (left hand picture) might be on the former site of a corn mill (Mike Brown – 1996). The Torre Abbey lands from this point follow the course of the river upstream.Just to the west of ‘Colreforda’ is a tree planted to celebrate the Diamond Jubilee of Queen Elizabeth II. The plaque and tree are located atSX72439 73108. It is strange that the tree has been planted underneath some power lines and which possibly cause future problems.There is a small 19th century clapper bridge to the west of the bridge over Ruddycleave Water. On this bridge, on the north parapet is a nicely carved benchmark, which according to 19th century maps (on National Library of Scotland) is B.M. 0670.7. It is located atSX 72295 73136Gates to Buckland Court, an early 19th century mansion house which incorporates part of a smaller late 17th-early 18th century building, which itself overlies remains of an older stone structure. Over the centuries the house here has been owned by the Bastard (Edmund Pollexfen) family and William Whitley (of Ten Commandments fame).There is a possible medieval cross which has been built into the Buckland Court wall. Masson Phillips, (1937), The Ancient Stone Crosses of Devon: recorded this cross stating: “Built into the wall of the lawn, between the entrance door and the higher gate, a very roughly fashioned cross of rectangular section, much damaged. It is much damaged, one arm projects slightly, the other is hidden in the wall. A rectangular hole cut in the face may indicate former use as a gate-post”.As the village of Buckland in the Moor is entered from the east, there are some lovely photogenic doowways either side of the road.The centre of Buckland in the Moor is dominated by St Peter’s Church, Buckland-in-the-Moor. The above picture is a postcard which can be bought from inside the church.The church is believed to date from late 15th or early 16th century. It was restored in 1907 by G. H. Fellowes Prynne (ref: Belsey, (1983 – 1987), Buckland In The Moor Parish Checklist) .The above picture is a postcard which can be bought from inside the church. The clock on the tower was donated by William Whitley (of Ten Commandments fame) in 1930 (or possibly 1931*) and has the letters ‘MY DEAR MOTHER’ replacing numerals on both the west and east faces. *There are two dates quoted by various references as to when this occurred.View of the two stage unbuttressed west towerInternal views of the church. Of note are the fine wagon roofs and 15th century rood screen (which originated from Bradninch Church). The screen features a red and gold frieze with foliage and bunches of grapes, together with a series of painted panels. The west side of the panels depict the Annunciation, the Wise Men and several Saints (ref: John Pegg: Discover the churches of Dartmoor – 1986). According to the church warden’s accounts the new bells were hung in 1731.Close up of the ‘MY DEAR MOTHER’ clock face. This is a dedication to Elizabeth, mother of William Whitley who passed away a year before the clock faces were installed.Part of the graveyard with the Whitley family (four brothers) graves, each gravestone has the motto inscription ‘Live to Live’ on it.On the church is a benchmark (B.M 0779.3). It is in an unusual position insofar as other churches on the moor have benchmarks on the tower.A friendly robin has made the churchyard part of his territory.Long tailed tit (I believe) on the top of the south porch.Outside the south porch is a rather old, yet grand tombstone. The author was unable to decipher the inscription.Views of Buckland Beacon from the village.At the junction to the lane leading to Elliots Hill farm (east side of the lane) is an inscribed stone erected in June 1977 to celebrate the Silver Jubilee of Elizabeth II. The stone indicates the adjacent tree was planted at that time.Buckland Village Hall.Also at the junction to the lane leading to Elliots Hill farm (west side of the lane) is a 2nd inscribed stone erected in 2002 to celebrate the Golden Jubilee of Queen Elizabeth II.As well as the inscribed stone celebrating Golden Jubilee of Queen Elizabeth II, there is bench just a few metres away which was installed at the same time. The picture (top right) shows the location of the inscribed stone in relation to the village hall.Climbing the hill (north) to Elliots Hill farm a splendid view towards Leusdon Church can be had. It was raining at the time the pictures here were taken.Elliots Hill Farm. The farmhouse is said to date from at least the 18th century and was greatly extended in the mid-late 19th century.Near to Elliots Hill farm are several rollers (or possible posts). They are quite short being approx 1.5m long each.Bowden. It was first documented as ‘Boghedoune’ in 1330, thus would have been around in some form when the Torre Abbey lands were gifted. The farmstead was owned by the Woolcott’s (late 16th century) and the Jennynge’s (early 17th century). It was sold to Buckland Manor in 1639 for £200. Bowden is a real hidden ‘gem’. The farmstead lies a short distance to the west of Ruddycleave Water, where the Torre Abbey lands boundary is located.Bridge over Ruddycleave Water. At this point the Torre Abbey lands boundary would have turned from south-north direction to a west-east direction.Lane leading away from Ruddycleave Water on the Torre Abbey lands boundary. The lane is bounded by Birch Wood on its south side.View from the lane towards Pudsham Down and Ruddycleave Farm. A full rainbow adding to the fabulous vista.Gate at the top of the lane. Dave Brewer marks this location as ‘Mahimorhilhead’ – see sketch map. This location is also known as Ripman’s Gate.Adjacent (north east) to Ripman’s Gate are several large boulders which are likely to be stone clearance pile. That said, this is the approx. location of a place called “The Three Stones” mentioned in the original Torre Abbey charter. The stone clearance pile is located atSX73220 73527Leaving the “Three Stones” the final section of the Torre Abbey lands boundary is described as ‘Fossatum’ (or sunken way). There is a path through the heather and gorse, which conceivably have been ‘Fossatum’.The path (‘Fossatum’) on the hillside looking west.The ‘Fossatum’ is described in the Dartmoor HER as a “Banked lane leading down towards the drift lane to Bowden”. Of interest close to the ‘Fossatum’ is an upright stone (picture on left) which doesn’t look natural. It is located atSX73434 73419. The Torre Abbey lands boundary has now been circumnavigated
exactly equal shares.
55
Each man had 19 and one half of the 96 acres, three 32-acre ferlings. An early 17th century survey of the estate of Mary Fitz , later known as Lady Mary Howard includes two holdings at Dunnabridge, each con sisting of 22 acres of arable in the common field of Dunnabridge, and 1and a half acres in the common meadow .The Overseers’ accounts show that in the 18th century the five holdings all belonged to two members of the Leaman family, and by 1844 they had been redivided as two farms. There was great cohesion within the hamlets, and although there was always a tendency for the small tenements to be amalgamated, this almost always happened inside the hamlet boundary, which remained intact.
Common Fields
The common fields attached to the nucleated hamlets have left their traces in field names and documents as well as on the ground, although very little is known about the actual sense in which they were common fields. Among the field names mentioned in the Tithe Apportionment are Longlands, Shortlands, Butland, Lawns, Shutes, Sallans ? (Selions), Grattons and Wares, all of which suggest strip fields of some kind, and are arranged in blocks on the map. Grattons, with variations such as Gradener and Gratna, is a common name. It can mean a stubble field over which there are common grazing rights; or the first crop of grass grown after land has been top-dressed with sea-sand. Sea-sand is known to have been used in Widecombe in the 17th century on a meadow called the Nepehay, Court Rolls of Widecombe, which was unfortunately flooded when a certain Vincent Andrew diverted the mill-stream. But the Gratton fields are almost invariably in groups, and this suggests a piece of ground which has been divided and en closed, but is still subject to grattoning rights. Another name which is apparently connected with open fields is ‘Wares’. It was common among the Ancient Tenements in 1838, but did not exist in Widecombe in 1844, unless names such as Bull Weir on Uppacot are a variation. In East Anglia ware land seems to have indicated a form of land tenure, particularly on marginal land, and it has been suggested that it was the converse of inland (Fig. 3). Possibly the name was connected with eare, or are, to plough, a word still known in Widecombe. A document of 1742 concerning the moiety of a tenement at Hexworthy (SX 654728) mentions: all that mead called Cholly Meadow, one close of land called Broome Park, one parcel of land called Larkland, one parcel of land containing one acre, and one parcel of land containing half an acre in Langland, one parcel of land containing half an acre in Great Ridgeware, half of an acre lying in Little Ridgeware, half an acre lying in the Bye, and one acre of land lying in Whitemeade. . . These parcels are far more scattered than the fields of any of the Hexworthy holdings at the time of the Tithe Apportionment, and could not possibly fit in with any of them. They must have been dispersed strips which were redistributed and converted into blocks at some time between 1742 and 1838. Landscore’ as a field name was not known in Widecombe, Buckland, Manaton or the Forest at the time of the Tithe Apportionments; but it was used to describe boundaries, bounded parcels in common fields or meadows, or bounded land over which there were common rights. ‘Closes and land score grounds’ at Blackslade appear in a document of 1588.
The 17th-century survey of Mary Fitz’s estate which has already been mentioned includes ‘one rod of arable meadow and pasture called landscore land’ at Sherbourne, Sherberton in the Forest, and ‘80 acres of waste land called landscore ground’, which may possibly have been at Laughter. Landscores and Wares at Challacombe The deserted strip lynchets at Challacombe in Manaton parish (SX 695795) were described and mapped by Dr. Alfred Shorter (Antiquity, 1938). They belong to the outlying part of Kenton Manor in Manaton parish, and the Kenton Manor surveys show that they were still part of the Challacombe tenements at the end of the 18th century. It seems obvious that the farms were allowed to run down because the inhabitants found it more profitable to work in the Birch Tor and Vitifer mines, which were just over the Challacombe border. There are similar deserted strip lynchets at Soussons, on the other side of the ridge, and also at Blackaton, immediately to the
south. In the 18th century there were five tenements at Challacombe and two at Soussons.
The 1787 survey of Kenton manor (which unfortunately only exists in a 19th-century copy which has no map) lists in detail the fields of the two leasehold tenements of the manor in Challacombe. One of these is identifiable by its 12 fields, which correspond closely in their acreages with those of North Challacombe farm as given in the Tithe Apportionment of 1842. Apart from the 12 fields, there were in 1787 (but not in 1842) 31 landscores. The fields of the second tenement correspond with those of South Middle Challacombe Fig. 4. Challacombe area. The enclosed fields existing in 1842 are stippled. The areas showing deserted strip lynchets are hatched in 1842, with the addition of 37 landscores. The total acreage for the five Challacombe tenements all through the 18th century was 270 acres, which was reduced to only 157 by 1842. The two tenements at Soussons had 152 acres between them, compared with only 79 in 1842. It is clear that the landscores must represent the deserted strip lynchets (Fig. 4), The present fields of Challacombe, now a single farm, lie in the bottom of the valley. They mainly correspond with those of 1842. The deserted strip lynchets line the sides of the valley up to nearly 1,400 ft. The contour divisions on the eastern lynchet below. Those on the western side, which is considerably steeper—and, as Mr. W. G. Hambley, who farms Challacombe, points out, on different soil and better drained, are considerably more massive. They circle round the southern end of the Challacombe ridge, where they are divided by downhill strips, and then continue northwards above Soussons. The lynchets are divided into blocks of strips. These divisions must be the Wares mentioned in the survey. Without a map it is difficult to name them individually, but Mr. Hambley has been able to identify Hellens as the block immediately to the west of the mill, and Moor Soggs as the 21 acres at the extreme south-east corner of the fields. Many of the fields which belonged to individual Challacombe farms by 1787 had, from their appearance, been unenclosed strips not long before. At least three-quarters of the total farm acreages must once have been strips in common enclosures. Deserted medieval house sites near the present Challacombe farm house have been recorded (Linehan, 1966), but there is no sign of an inner boundary wall surrounding a contracted area within the lynchets, which reach the height of the highest of the local deserted fields. This must be a survival of the highland zone system of a small permanent infield, and a shifting cultivation of the outfield, a few years’ tillage, then a return to waste. As the local tin mines expanded the farms were allowed to run down, and unlike other local farms they were never converted to ley farming—permanent cultivation alternating between tillage and grass leys. The Challacombe valley preserves the original pattern of Dartmoor farms. There are obvious enclosed strip lynchets all through the
field pattern in the Widecombe area. They are of the tions of two or three strips put together, making fields of if to 3 acres. (Sometimes they are quite heavily lynchetted; but normally this has been prevented by good farmers, who con sidered it a crime if the bottom two or three furrows of a ploughed field were not carted uphill and deposited at the top.) For example, in 1844 the small meadows and enclosures of Dunstone Manor (Fig. 5) and a set of downhill strips (possibly permanent arable) below the road were still divided among the tenements of Lower Dunstone; while the strip lynchets above, part of the original outfield, were held in blocks, and had apparently once extended higher up the common. The larger fields of the demesne can be seen to the south. In many hamlets the change to ley farming would have come at the same time as the enclosure of open field strips, but it would in any case vary according to circumstances. The evidence of Hexworthy shows that on the outskirts strip fields
persisted in 1742, and the larger fields typical of late enclosure of strip fields are more common on the western side of the parish.
The exact status of the outfield is difficult to understand. Judging by the fringe of deserted fields above them, many of the farms seem to have abandoned a part of their share of it.
If more of the system of grazing rights and land tenure were known this might be explained. Even marginal land should have been useful as enclosed pasture. Unfortunately few of the farm acreages given in Widecombe documents and records are
specific enough to compare with those given in the Tithe Apportionment. There may have been some connection with the recognised area of grazing belonging to each farm, but this was very much larger than any patch of cultivation. The exact form of the boundary fence is also uncertain. A deed of 1672 gives a total of 79 acres at Lower Tor (SX 698726) including 20 acres of furse and heath; in 1844 there were only 60 acres altogether, the missing 19 acres being the furse and heath, which was never enclosed. On the other hand a 1720 lease of Oldsbroom farm (SX 668734) includes in the total of 45 acres 17 acres of heath and common pasture’. In 1844 the acreage was the same, and the 17 acres were clearly the five fields above the road. One local commoner with a memory which stretches back over several generations says that the farm lost its grazing rights by enclosing part of the common. Oldsbroom was a single farm at least as far back as 1700, and is detached from all other farms, an island by itself on Spitchwick Common. The 17 acres must have been en closed between 1720 and 1844; and it seems that although they were always recognised as part of the farm, they were originally subject to common grazing rights. The Poor Rate and Land Tax Assessments for Oldsbroom were exceptionally low, whereas the Tithe Apportionment a century later was normal for the size of the farm. Presumably unenclosed but bounded outfield, like unenclosed strips in an open field, was of low
value. (There were inconsistencies of this kind in taxes only on two other Widecombe farms—Blackslade and Foxworthy.) At this time large newtakes were being enclosed, but the Spitchwick commoners were particularly sensitive about encroachment because the common was inflexibly bounded by the river. Common rights apparently did exist over the recognised divisions of the bounded outfield. The 1787 Kenton Survey says of the part of the manor in Kenton parish that the tenements have ‘their marks’ on the commons, which they till once in fifteen or twenty years. The 1566 survey of Lord Dynham’s lands in Ilsington Manor records one tenant who held ‘on Etor Down 40 acres’, which were probably among the deserted cultivations (SX 7677) due north-west of the Moorland Hotel. These can be seen from the road near Hay Tor in the right conditions. From the arrangement of the deserted fields above the upper boundary of some of the present enclosures, it seems possible that a patch of outfield was sometimes shared between two or three farms or hamlets, for example in the small block of strip lynchets above jordan, Dockwell and Bittieford (SX7677) This could have created complications when enclosures began. (In fact it is surprising that the process went so smoothly that no records of disputes survive.) In some cases the ground immediately above the farm was impossibly steep. This would account for the concentration of deserted fields in the upper part of the Natsworthy valley.
Strip Lynchets
H. G. Bowen (1960) remarked that the Challacombe lynchets are a notable exception to the normal strip lynchets: They have squared ends, and though long, they do not have the extreme proportions of normal strip lynchets. Nevertheless they are arranged in parcels after the medieval fashion, and it is this regular disposition over a large area which above all would appear to distinguish them from the “Celtic” fields.’
Strip lynchets of this type are normal on Dartmoor. Farmers were accustomed to dig the outside furrows of the field, and also the corners and rocky patches (even in some cases within the last twenty years) with long-handled Devon shovels. This
accounts for the squared ends. There were no carts, only pack ponies or sledges, and elaborate ramps were hardly necessary, though field-ways occasionally ran along the contour. There are strip lynchets as massive as those at Challacombe at Hexworthy (SX 668729) and on Easdon Down in Manaton (SX736826). Sometimes the individual strips have been filled in between dividing lines running uphill (like those on the western side of the Challacombe valley) without matching along the contour. Possibly intervening strips have been ploughed out, but as Dr. Shorter (1938) said of those at Challacombe ‘they are of different lengths and widths and there seems to be no standard’. Occasionally single blocks of strip lynchets climb the slopes like short ladders with irregular sides (SX 764759, for example, near Bag Tor). On the other hand there is in some places an underlying pattern of very long terraces which have been subdivided by banks which run directly uphill. Some of the long contour lines on Rushlade Common (SX 7374) continue southwards along the field boundaries of Welstor for 3 to 4 furlongs. On aerial photographs it can be seen that there were once contour lines from a deserted field at Swallerton Gate (SX 740792) northwards through the fields of Great Hound Tor, and out on to Hayne Down, a distance of about half a mile. It is characteristic of this type that if they come to a dip or valley they go straight down one side and up the other. A collection of deserted strips near Venford Reservoir run in different directions, which is unusual on Dartmoor (SX 686717). The upper block is composed of strip lynchets, each of which is divided into two or three smaller strips (by slighter banks) which are from 20 to 25 yards wide. This can be seen clearly from the opposite side of the Dart valley, but is difficult to follow on aerial photographs or on the ground. Strips like this may have been ploughed out on other examples, which would account for the chunky proportions of some strip lynchets. There are smaller and more primitive deserted strip lynchets in the Widecombe area which may well be pre-Saxon. There are examples near the prehistoric settlement on Halshanger Common (SX 7 48 7 49), and on the eastern slope of Chinkwell Tor (SX 732 782), where deserted contour fields run between three prehistoric banks which climb the hillside. There are contour divisions inside the three prehistoric fields immediately to the north-west of the Foale’s Arrishes enclosure (SX737760). These are faint, with only slight lynchets, but unmistakable. On the western side of the same ridge is another small block (SX 731762) above a group of hut circles, and there are faint contour lines all over this hillside. There are others above Rowbrook (SX 682726). All of these are small and of irregular sizes, and all are near hut circles.
Downhill Strips
It is well known that strips which run up and down or across the slope have small lynchets which are easily ploughed out, and often leave little trace. Many of the squarish fields must once have contained them. ‘Fossilised’ examples remain at Natsworthy (Fig. 3) and Venton as well as Dunstone, and also at Pizwell and Huccaby in the Forest. Wider strip-shaped fields at Tor, Blackaton and other farms are probably made from two or three enclosed together. Apart from the strips below the terraces at Venford, there is a set of about a dozen deserted strips fanning out down the hillside between Blackslade Ford and Foale’s Arrishes, near a medieval longhouse site. These are about 40 ft. wide at their widest. A part of this set has been enclosed at a later time and covered with ridge and furrow. There are also deserted down hill strips of a more primitive type, not much more than 25 ft. wide and very irregular, near Week Ford at Huccaby (SX661725) and at Sherril (SX 682748). As the present fields occupy what must have been the best ground at most periods, many prehistoric fields and farms must underlie them, and some farmsteads must be on prehistoric sites. It is difficult to identify any traces of this in the later field pattern, except in the case of the prehistoric reaves which have been described in an earlier number of the Transactions . These reaves run across the Moor in long parallel lines, usually about 100 yards apart, ignoring all physical obstacles, such as streams and rocky hillsides. Their purpose is unknown, but they are apparently land rather than field boundaries. They have been used as marking lines for later fields and boundaries (Fig. 6) particularly among the
squarer fields. The strip lynchets are usually on a different Ridge and Furrow
65
In the 16th and 17th centuries men were allowed to till parts of the lord’s waste at 6d an acre (Widecombe Court Rolls). The cases recorded were few, and apparently refer to land on the open commons beyond the bounded outfield. Lines of ridge and furrow can be seen all over the commons from a distance, although it is difficult to measure it on the spot. Ridge and furrow on deserted fields is much clearer. The ridges are nearly always about 7 feet. 6 inches wide (though very irregular) and occasionally about 6 feet. or 9 foot. wide. There is also a type with ridges 10 foot to 15 feet wide, which must date from the time when the arrival of wheeled farm machinery made the wider ridges necessary. This is concentrated in a few places, particularly on large newtakes. On contour fields it usually, but not always, runs contourwise. Otherwise it runs up and down, or sometimes slightly across the slope. Sometimes there is visible cross ploughing. There has been so much unenclosed ploughing of the commons on the eastern side of the parish that much of the prehistoric pattern has disappeared; but on the western side, particularly on Spitchwick common, the pattern is less disturbed. Vancouver (1808, p. 132) said of the district and of most of the rest of Devon that the fields were ploughed in ten-furrow ridges, with a 9-in. furrow, which would produce the 7 foot 6 inches ridge. He mentioned narrower ridges for potatoes, but these were not common in Widecombe. He did not mention extra
ploughing of waste or pasture because of the Napoleonic wars. According to the Tithe List of 1808 most farms only grew enough corn for home use. Parts of the newtakes were ploughed during the two world wars.
In the Isle of Man, land which was to be reaped by sickle was described as being divided into butts, a little more than 2 yards wide, ‘to make it easier to sow and reap the corn’ (Clague, 1911, p. 75). Thomas Quayle (1812, p. 52) said of ploughing on upland Manx farms that ‘no plough formerly penetrated above three inches into the soil, and the ridges were crooked and narrow, with broad headlands unturned altogether’. This would be a good description of the ridge and furrow on Dartmoor. Symmetrical geological patterns of stone stripes can be mis
taken for ridge and furrow, or even strip fields, but they can be
Fig. 3. Above. 'Fossilised' strip fields in the demesne of Natsworthy in 1844 The holdings are—1. Higher Natsworthy {Hyngeston). 2, 3 and 4. The three tenements in Natsworthy hamlet. 5. Ley. below. Part of Dunnabridge in 1838. The fields with Ware names are marked ' W'
It seems likely that the Challacombe fields which were enclosed by 1842 represent the original infield (mainly meadow bnt probably containing some permanent arable) to which had been added a few pieces of ground which had formerly been covered by strip lynchets. The landscores could very well correspond with that part of the outfield in the Scottish run rig system which was manured by animals penned upon it in temporary
enclosures, and was broken up about once in ten years. (North Challacombe and South Middle Challacombe both held from 3-5 acres in each of the 10 main divisions of the landscores.) The open common may have taken the place of the other, unmanured, part of the run-rig outfield, which was tilled once in 15—20 years. The probable existence of the infield-outfield system on Dartmoor has been discussed in detail by Harinden and Wilkinson in their recent book, Dartmoor: a New Study (David & Charles).

©The Devonshire Association, December 2003
The Manor of Bagtor,
Ilsington
This paper traces the ownership of Bagtor manor in Ilsington parish, and that of its manor house and barton, from early times to the present Manorial court rolls are mostly locking and there are consequently gaps in the record which are unlikely ever to be filled. However, other sources, both unpublished, and published but in a different context, I have gone some way in helping to create a coherent account !
INTRODUCTION
The first known holder of Bagtor was Ordric. The Exeter Book of 1086) states that Roger held Bagtor from Nicholas formerly held by Ordric. Possibly this Roger was he who also held a portion of Buckland-in-the-Moor from Nicholas and was described as a man-at-arms. Bagtor paid tax for one virgate and consisted of land for five ploughs with one furlong and one plough in lordship. The manor had six villagers, two smallholders and one slave. There were three acres of woodland and pasture of one league in length and half a league in width. There were five cattle, three pigs, thirty-five sheep and fifteen goats. The value was 20 shilling, but formerly 15 shillings , (Dimensions such as virgate and league in 1086 cannot be equated at all precisely with modern values and there have been many interpretations of their likely value. Notionally, in Devon a virgate may have been around thirty acres and a league one and a half miles). Nicholas was known as ‘Balistarius’ which has been variously
translated as bowman, gunner and chief engineer (the Latin word ‘ballista’ covered a variety of missile-throwing weapons). He was one of the French men-at-arms serving under William the Conqueror.
The Manor of Bagtor
Ordric, most probably a Saxon, had before the Conquest, also owned lands at Holbeam, Ideford, Modbury, Ogwell, Rocombe, Stokeinteignhead and Webbery, all of which passed to Nicholas.
THE EARLY YEARS
The Testa de Nevil, a series of documents relating to feudal tenures, was collected and copied for the Exchequer in 1302 during the reign of Edward the first (1272-1307). It also contained extracts from financial
documents from an earlier time. An entry for the period 1235-43 showed that a William de Baggetorre held Bagtor for one knight’s fee from the Honour of Plympton (Whale, 1898, 238). In another document he is shown as holding Bagtor in 1238: Bagtor vill is in mercy for a foolish presentment. William de Bagggetore is likewise in mercy for the same, pledges Robert de la Heie and Thomas de Swinepath. By 1284-6 the manor was held by Thomas: Thomas de Baggetorre tenet villam de Baggetor pro homagio et servicio de Roberto filio Pagani, Robertus de comitissa predicta per idem servicium, et eadem de rege , et est j f.
Thomas of Bagtor holds the vill of Bagtor for homage and service from Robert son of Pagan, Robert of the aforesaid countess for the same service and the same of the king and is one fee. (Feudal Aids, 1899,339)
The same publication also shows that in 1303 Thomas held Bagtor and Aller in the Hundred of Haytor. At that date, too, a William of Bagtor held half a fee in ‘Horrygg’1 (Horridge). The Lay Subsidy Rolls for 1332 show a Geoffrey of Bagtor taxed for 2 shillings and Feudal Aids for the year 1346 show a Geoffrey of Bagtor paying 40 shillings and refers to Thomas as having once held it. By 1377 William de Brightlegh held Bagtor for one knight’s fee from Hugh de Courtenay.
Another reference to Bagtor is contained in a return around 1384 relating to fifteenths and tenths granted by the laity to Richard the second. These were taxes on the value of movables or chattels levied generally
at a tenth from towns and ancient demesnes and a fifteenth elsewhere. The tithing of ‘Bagetor’ paid 15 pence compared to 9 pence from Horridge, 18 pence from Staplehill, 18 pence from the hamlet of Sigford and 20 shillings 8 pence from the manor of Ilsington .
By 1428 at the latest a John Ford had succeeded to the ownership together with John Windyeat: Johannes Forde et Johannes Windyeat tenent di.f.m.in Bagetor quod Galfridus de Bagetor quondam tenuit ibidem.
John Ford and John Windyeat hold half a knight’s fee in Bagtor which Geoffrey of Bagtor once held. Feudal Aids, 1899,486) The earliest statement found relating the Bere family to Bagtor is by Risdon: ‘The Barton of Bagtor .... became the inheritance of the name of Bere’ (Risdon, 1811,135). Although not finally published until 1811 the material for Risdon’s book was collected between 1605 and 1630. A statement by Pole gives a little more information and spells the name differently which suggests that it is not a copy taken from Risdon’s work. Thus ‘William Hurst, aiderman of the cyty of Exeter ...married Julian daughter of ...Beare of Bagtor and had issue William and John’. Pole put no forename to Beare (Pole, 1791, 261). Westcote wrote that John Beare of Huntsham married Elizabeth, daughter and heir of John Chalvedon and had issue John and Julian, the latter married to William Hurst of Exeter, and that Hurst was five times mayor of Exeter. He made no mention of Bagtor (Westcote,1845, 461). Vivian shows this John Beare as having died on 27 December 1524 (Vivian, 1895). Izacke stated that William Hurst was bailiff of Exeter in 1512 and mayor in 1524,1535,1545, 1551 and 1561 (Izacke, undated). A Julian Beare of Huntsham, daughter of John Beare, was born around 1485 and married
William Hurst about 1507 so it is probable that Beare owned Bagtor before that latter date. These dates fit well with the statement by Alexander that William Hurst died in 1568 aged 96 (Alexander, 1929).An Inquisition Post Mortem4 on the death of a John Bear in 17 Henry VIII (1526) included the recital of a will dated 12 December of Henry VIII but it contains no reference to a daughter Julian or to Bagtor. The likely explanations are that Julian had died before her father or that, being already married, there was no call to leave her anything. It is also reasonable to suppose that Beare had disposed of Bagtor before he died. In fact there is evidence which shows that John Ford purchased Bagtor from John Beare in 1517. the fords of bagtor Pole states that ‘John Forde held Baggetorre in Kinge Henry eighth tyme 11509-1547] and his heire male now enjoyeth the same’ (Pole, 1791,
Where Ordric is mentioned
Exact phrasing found in modern summaries
Sources
Bagtor was a settlement in Domesday Book, in the hundred of Teignbridge and the county of Devon.
It had a recorded population of 9 households in 1086, putting it in the smallest 40% of settlements recorded in Domesday.
Land of Nicholas the bowman Households
Land and resources
Livestock
Valuation
Owners
Other information
The Manor of_ Bagtor
526). John Ford was probably born around 1485 (he had a daughter, Joan, born in 1509) and came to Ashburton from Chagford. John was a leading figure in Ashburton and had amassed many estates in Devon. It is possible, but unproven, that he was the direct heir of the John Ford jointly holding Bagtor in 1428. John’s ‘heire male’ was George, born in 1522. George was bequeathed some sixty per cent of his father’s estate and when he died in 1570 left only about one third of this. However, it would be wrong to suppose that this showed recklessness in his transactions though it is probable that he acquired debts which forced him to sell land. A substantial part of the proceeds of such sales was to raise money to help pay for a dowry for the marriage of his sister Margaret, their father, John, having made a greatly insufficient allowance for this in his will. On the positive side, on the death of George his estate was more compact than that which he inherited. 6 Bagtor, with other properties in Ilsington parish, passed died 1684 ,Henry Row Ford died circa 1679
Joanna Hockmore, Joan St. Clare, Elizabeth Popham, Katherine Drake, Eleanour Row Dormer Henry (Barton of Bagtor then passed io the Lears) on the death of George to his eldest son Thomas born in 1556. Thomas, by his wife Elizabeth Popham, had an heir Henry of Bagtor, and a second son John, baptised on 17 April 1586 at St Michael’s church, Ilsington, who became famous as an Elizabethan dramatist. Thomas died in 1610. Henry Ford of Bagtor married Katherine Drake, daughter of George Drake of Littleham in October 1612. In that same year, by a deed of 15 September, he conveyed Bagtor to John Drake and John Sampson. At that point Bagtor passed from the Ford family but only four years later, on 6 November 16167 Edward Gee of Tedburn Saint Mary, John Drake and John Sampson sold to: Kathren, widdow of Henry Forde of Bagtor, esq., the lordshippe and mannor of all Bagtorre with bowses, milles, gardens, landes, pastures, woodes, marshes, commons, waters etc, the capitall mansion howse, barton, farme and demesne landes of Bagtorre or so called... Henry and Katherine had a son and heir who became Sir Henry of Nutwell, MP for Tiverton and Secretary of State for Ireland. He married Eleanour Row, daughter of Sir Henry Row. Sir Henry Ford died in 1684 seriously in debt, and in his will dated 11 September of that year he left his estate to his devisees to be sold as necessary to pay his debts, funeral expenses and legacies to his four daughters.8 There was no specific mention in the will of the lordship and manor of Bagtor. The provisions of the will were much disputed and not finally resolved until an award of arbitration in 1692.’ This included, inter alia, awards of the high rent of Bagtor. The receipt of high rent was an indication of lordship and it is clear that Sir Henry was, indeed, the lord of the manor. From then until the present day the passage of the lordship of Bagtor followed the same route as that for Ilsington manor described in detail in an earlier issue of these
Transactions (Ransom, 1999,105-121). Sir Henry specifically devised the barton of Bagtor to his grandson Henry whose father was Henry Row Ford. This grandson has been wrongly attributed by Vivian in his Visitations, and subsequently by others, as the son of Charles Ford. Henry Row Ford was Sir Henry Ford’s eldest son and heir and was probably the child shown in the Ilsington parish registers as born on 20 November 1645 and entered as Henry son of Henry Ford esq.’ A manuscript of the House of Lords states that Henry Row Ford married a daughter of ’—Dormer esq; without any portion’ (House of Lords, n.d.). He died before his father, for the Woodbury parish registers show Henry Ford the son of Henry Ford, knight, of Nutwell as being buried on 13 November 1679.10 The ownership of Bagtor in the times of Sir Henry Ford, Henry Row Ford and the grandson Henry was complex and generated much legal activity which, indeed, found its way to the House of Lords.
From the manuscript mentioned above it would appear that in 1673 Bagtor belonged for a time to Sir Thomas Row of Swarford, Oxfordshire:
The late Henry Row Ford, Sir Henry’s son and heir, having purchased of Sir Thomas Row, Knt., late of Swarford. co. Oxon, and one Abraham Johnson his trustee, the Barton of Baytor, (sic) co. Devon, worth about 1001. a year, mortgaged it in 14 Car.II, to Sir Thos.Row for 1,4931.14 shillings, part of the purchase money which he and his father covenanted to pay. The father paid about 6221 on his son’s account but, the son neglecting to pay the rest, Sir Thomas entered in 1673, but died in the lifetime of the mortgagors. This mortgage was detailed in an indenture tripartite of 14 July 1672." Sir Thomas Row was eventually paid the covenanted purchase price out of that part of Sir Henry Ford’s estate (excluding the barton of Bagtor) by the devisees, and the barton became the property of the grandson of Sir Henry. Henry Ford was described as a merchant of London and there are several surviving records of his mortgaging of the barton and associated lands. In 1704 he conveyed the barton to Sir Henry Lear of Lindridge and John Lear of Shiphay.12
Henry Ford grandson of Sir Henry Ford and heir of Sir Henry, eldest son and heir of Henry Row Ford deceased, who was in his lifetime the oldest son and heir apparent of Sir Henry Ford. Indenture between
Henry Ford and Sir Thomas Lear of Lindridge, Baronet and John Lear of Shiphay, barton of Bagtor and other properties for 5s to hold for one year. This legal holding device, a lease and release, was finalised the
following day with the barton conveyed to the Lears for £2000.“ They held the barton of Bagtor for a very short time, it being leased in 1705 and conveyed in 1707 to Thomas Tothill of Bovey Tracy.
The Tothills were an Ideford family. Thomas married Elizabeth Drake, daughter of Sir Bernard Drake of Herebere, Bickington and Elizabeth Prestwood of Butterford. The marriage licence was dated 11 November 1701 (DCRS, 1941). His mother was the daughter of Thomas Prestwood of North huish and the widow by a previous marriage of Hugh Stawell whom she married on 26 July 1667 (DCRS, 1941). The Ilsington parish registers show that she was brought from Bickington to be buried at Ilsington on 6 August 1714. Thomas died sometime after 1744 as will be seen below but the exact year of his death has not been established. He was succeeded by his son, also Thomas, born on 17 November 1718 who became vicar of Uplyme. A marriage settlement was drawn up in 1744 relating to the forthcoming marriage of the Revd Thomas and Penelope Hill of Lydcott, Morval, Cornwall. Thomas senior was one of those taking part in the six-part indenture. Penelope was the only daughter and heir of John Hill. The marriage settlement included references to properties in Bagtor and several other neighbouring parishes. The Revd Thomas was succeeded by his widow. An interesting indenture dated 21 May 1765 is given below: Indenture between Penelope Tothill of the city of Exeter, widow, and Jonathan Bussell late of Tiverton but now of Ilsington, yeoman. Penelope rents to Jonathan Capital Messuage, Barton farm, demesne lands of or called Bagtor with appurtenances, late in possession of John Miller, now Jonathan Bussell tenant; excepting Bagtor mills and fields etc. now in possession of Peter Tarr, and excepting and reserving unto Penelope Tothill her heirs and assigns etc. all those parts and parcels of the Capital Messuage or farm of Bagtor as follows: the two parlours in the front of the house, the hall, the chambers and closets over the said parlours and hall with the chambers and garretts over the staircase from the hall to the said chambers, and the stair case in the passage, the chamber called the School chamber with the closet on the other side of the passage almost opposite to the said school chamber, the Chappell, the larder called the Flesh House, the wine cellar adjoining thereto, the great Cyder Cellar, the room or chamber
over the house called the Bottle House, the partridge house, the meat house...
There were numerous outbuildings, woods and coppices also subject to reservations.
An enclosed place— literally a fenced or hedged area
A defended homestead or settlement— often with a palisade
A farmstead that could grow into a village or manor
A Saxon foundation, or
A Saxon renamingof an older site they took over.