The River Plim is a river in Devon, England. It runs from Dartmoor in the centre of the county southwest to meet the River Meavy, then south towards Plymouth Sound. The river is popular with canoeists, and the Plim Valley Railway runs alongside a section of the river.
Course
The river's source is around 450 metres (1,480 ft) above sea level on Dartmoor, in an upland marshy area called Plim Head. From the upper reaches, which contain antiquities and mining remains, the river flows roughly southwest past clay workings at Shaugh before the Dewerstone, where it meets the River Meavy. The course then changes to run southwards, between Plymouth and Plympton passing through the National Trust property of Plymbridge Woods and under the ancient Plim Bridge. Its upper tidal estuary is known as the Laira and the lower part is called Cattewater, which is navigable and leads towards Plymouth Sound .It is approximately 20 miles (32 kilometres) long. In all probability Plympton takes name from its ancient position at the head of the estuary of what is now known as the Plim, or, as these estuarine creeks are commonly called in the locality, lake—pen lin in the Western Keltic tongue, contracted, as in other instances in Cornwall, into plin, the form which the first syllable takes in its earliest occurrence in " Domesday ’—Plintona. Plymouth, at the lower end of the estuary, did not assume that appellation until the original meaning of the word had long been lost ; and the consequence appears to have been a curious transference of names. The modern Plim is made up of two rivers, the Mew or Meavy, and what in later days has been called the Cad, but through the Middle Ages was known as the Plim. The old form of Meavy is Mewi, and this in the Kornu-Keltic would mean " greater water.’ There is no reasonable doubt that Laira—formerly Lary —the name now applied to the estuary, which means the " lesser water ’—is the original name of the second tributary, and that the estuary and the river—the Plim and the Lary—have somehow exchanged titles. There is a bridge over the Plim called Cadover, a corruption of coed weorthig—the " farm-place in the wood,’ and the second change of name from Plim to Cad arose from the " over ’ being held to imply that the bridge crossed the Cad. The Plim is now commonly understood of the rivers between their junction and the estuary. Failing such an explanation, many are the hypotheses that have, been advanced to account for the fact that the " ton " of the Plim is not, and never was, upon the river now known by that name, and is, indeed, nearly two miles distant, though quite as great a distance from the estuary. It is, however, well within historic times that the tide flowed up to the walls of the castle, and that Plympton stood literally, as well as nominally, at the ‘ head of the lake.’ Moreover, throughout the Middle Ages the chief traffic between Plymouth and the great Priory of Plympton was by boat. This was the route adopted by the Black Prince at his visits to the West, when the Priory afforded him entertainment. A record of acts done by him as Duke of Cornwall at Plymouth and Plympton, in 1362, is still in the possession of the Earl of Mount Edgcumbe; and the house seems to have become somewhat impoverished by the many claims on its hospitality caused by its contiguity to the port of Plymouth. At the compilation of * Domesday ’ Plintona was the chief centre of population for many miles. There is, therefore, much show of reason for the appearance here also of the ubiquitous couplet: ‘ Plympton was a borough town When Plymouth was a furzy down.’
CHAPTER XXV.
PLYMPTON.
Plympton has all the marks of a very ancient settlement. When it was founded the waters of what is now known as the Laira stretched up the valley to its site, and immediately above the farthest tidal reach were reared the earthworks which now bear the ruins of the fortress of the Redverses, but which were certainly held by the Kelt, possibly adopted by the Roman, and in turn extended and strengthened by the Saxon, ere the Norman made it the centre of his power in the wide district around.
Traces of this history may yet be read in the castle and its surroundings.
In all probability Plympton takes name from its ancient position at the head of the estuary of what is now known as the Plym, or, as these estuarine creeks are commonly called in the locality, lake—pen lin in the Western Keltic tongue, contracted, as in other instances in Cornwall, into plin, the form which the first syllable takes in its earliest occurrence in " Domesday ’—Plintona. Plymouth, at the lower end of the estuary, did not assume that appellation until the original meaning of the word had long been lost ; and the consequence appears to have been a curious transference of names. The modern Plym is made up of two rivers, the Mew or Meavy, and what in later days has been called the Cad, but through the Middle Ages was
known as the Plym. The old form of Meavy is Mewi, and this in the Kornu-Keltic would mean " greater water.’
There is no reasonable doubt that Laira—formerly Lary —the name now applied to the estuary, which means the " lesser water ’—is the original name of the second tributary, and that the estuary and the river—the Plym and the Lary—have somehow exchanged titles. There is a bridge over the Plym called Cadover, a corruption of coed weorthig—the " farm-place in the wood,’ and the second change of name from Plym to Cad arose from the " over ’ being held to imply that the bridge crossed the Cad. The Plym is now commonly understood of the rivers between their junction and the estuary. Failing such an explanation, many are the hypotheses that have, been advanced to account for the fact that the
" ton " of the Plym is not, and never was, upon the river
now known by that name, and is, indeed, nearly two miles
distant, though quite as great a distance from the estuary.
It is, however, well within historic times that the tide
flowed up to the walls of the castle, and that Plympton
stood literally, as well as nominally, at the ‘ head of the
lake.’ Moreover, throughout the Middle Ages the chief
traffic between Plymouth and the great Priory of Plympton
was by boat. This was the route adopted by the Black
Prince at his visits to the West, when the Priory afforded
him entertainment. A record of acts done by him as
Duke of Cornwall at Plymouth and Plympton, in 1362, is
still in the possession of the Earl of Mount Edgcumbe;
and the house seems to have become somewhat im
poverished by the many claims on its hospitality caused
by its contiguity to the port of Plymouth.
At the compilation of * Domesday ’ Plintona was the
chief centre of population for many miles. There is,
therefore, much show of reason for the appearance here
also of the ubiquitous couplet:
‘ Plympton was a borough town
When Plymouth was a furzy down.’
232
History of Devonshire.
William held it in succession to the Confessor, and had
an enumerated population of twenty-three within his
demesne; while there were twelve villeins in the portion
held by the canons. Though all was included in one
entry, the germs of the division thus already existed
which in later years made the territory of the Priory the
parish of Plympton St. Mary, and the lands of the secular
lord the Borough of Plympton Erle (from its owners), or
Plympton St. Maurice, from the early patron saint of its
church, in later years assigned to St. Thomas of Canterbury.
The remains of Plympton Castle consist of a mound
surmounted by the ruins of a shell keep, which rises at
the eastern end of a rectangular enclosure or base court.
The earthworks are in excellent preservation, and there
are traces of exterior defences. The Norman masonry is
simple, and with no special features of interest save the
occurrence of the cavities in the walls, which show the
original places of the beams inserted to strengthen and
support the stonework upon the doubtful foundation of
the mound. It is probable that the Norman castle was,
in great part, if not wholly, built by Richard de Redvers,
Earl of Devon, to whom Henry I. granted the honour
and castle. It was practically demolished in the ensuing
reign under his son, Baldwin, who had espoused the
cause of Matilda against Stephen, but whose garrison at
Plympton surrendered without striking a blow. This was
the only occasion on which Plympton Castle has figured
in history, and from that day to this as a fortalice it has
been a mere ruin ; though Plympton was a station of the
Cavaliers at the siege of Plymouth. The honour of
Plympton—of which were held 120 knights* fees—followed
the fortunes of the great house to which it belonged.
It passed from the Redverses to the Courtenays, and
continued in the latter, with the exception of the
intervals when that powerful family lay under royal dis
Plympton.
233
pleasure, until the death of Lord Edward Courtenay, in
1566. The property was then scattered among various
families, but was subsequently to a large extent brought
together again by purchase by the Earls of Morley; and
in them the lordship of the castle and manor is now
vested.
The Parkers, originally of North Molton, acquired by
their marriage with the heiress of Mayhew, temp. Eliza
beth, the manor of Boringdon, and thenceforward made
it their chief residence, until in 1712 they purchased
Saltram, once the seat and residence of Sir James Bagge,
the creature of Buckingham, and the ‘ bottomless bagge ’
of the patriot Eliot. The Parkers were raised to the
peerage in 1774, as Barons Boringdon; and in 1815 ad
vanced to be Viscounts Boringdon and Earls of Morley.
Saltram House was rebuilt by them early in the last
century, and was long reported the largest mansion in
the county.
Plympton Priory was one of the most ancient and
notable religious houses in Devon. The canons who held
two hides of the Plintona manor under William, were the
successors of men who had been seated there in all
probability for a longer period than any other religious in
Devon outside Exeter. There is yet extant a copy of a
Saxon document of reasonable authenticity, dated 904,
which records a grant by Eadweard the Elder to Asser,
Bishop of Sherborne, and the convent there, of twelve
manors, by way of exchange for the monastery which in
the Saxon tongue is called ‘ Plymentun.’ The college
consisted of a dean and four canons; and when they
refused to give up their wives, or, as Leland said, * wold
not leve their concubines,’ it was suppressed by Bishop
Warelwast, nephew of the Conqueror, in 1121. In its
stead he founded what afterwards became the great
Augustinian Priory of St. Peter and St. Paul, which was
so enriched with liberal gifts by the Redverses and
234
History of Devonshire,
Valletorts and other benefactors, that at the Dissolution
it was the wealthiest house in the West, with revenues
valued at £912 12s. 8d. The magnificent Priory Church,
where Warelwast and some of the Courtenays were
buried, adjoined the parish church of St. Mary; and a
few traces yet remain. Of the domestic buildings all
that is left is the refectory, converted into a dwelling
which has a Norman crypt.
The priors, as already stated, Were lords of a portion of
Plymouth in its infancy, and their part of the ancient
manor of Sutton was then called Sutton Prior. Before
that town could be incorporated, their consent had to be
obtained; and the terms were finally settled at an in
quisition held in the nave of the Priory Church in 1441, a
fee farm rent of £41 being then deemed an adequate
compensation. The Priory had two appendant cells—one,
Marisco, near Exeter; and the other at St. Anthony in
Roseland, Cornwall. The site has been in the Champer-
nownes, Strodes, and Fowneses.,
Plympton Erle was chartered by its . feudal lords,
Baldwin de Redvers made it a borough town, and granted
the burgesses its market and fairs in March, 1241. These
were confirmed in 1284. Municipal functions were re
tained until 1859, when, in consequence of the charter
conferring no exclusive jurisdiction as against the county,
it was allowed to lapse. As a Parliamentary borough
Plympton dated from 23rd Edward L, and it was con
tinuously represented until the fatal 1832. Few towns in
Devon have had more distinguished representatives.
Serjeant Hele sat for the borough under Elizabeth,
Many of the Strode family, whose ancestral seat of
Newnham is close by, were returned at various times;
and among them that William Strode who was one of
the famous ' five members.’ Strange that a town of such
marked Puritan proclivities should also have chosen such
a staunch Royalist as Sir Nicholas Slanning, Sir George
Plympton.
235
Treby, the judge, and Sir John Maynard, were other
notable members; and, most notable of all, in 1685, Sir
Christopher Wren became a ‘ burgess ’ of Plympton. In
later days, the most prominent representative was Lord
Castlereagh. . When he sat, however, Plympton had
long been a purely nomination borough ; one half of the
representation belonging to the Trebys, and the other
half to the Edgcumbes.
Quaint as many of the surroundings of Plympton Erle
still are, chief interest centres in the comparatively
modern and modernized Grammar School. Founded,
from the bequest of the great educational benefactor of
Devon, Elize, or Elizeus, Hele, and erected in 1644, here
was born, July 16, 1723, while his father, the Rev. Samuel
Reynolds, was head-master, the greatest English portrait
painter, Sir Joshua Reynolds, P.R.A. The old dwelling
has given place to a modern edifice ; but the school and
its quaint cloister still remain—the school in which not
only Reynolds, but Northcote was educated, which was
the first school, moreover, of another President of the
Royal Academy,. Sir C. L. Eastlake, and of which
Benjamin Robert Haydon was " head-boy ’ in 1801. No
school in England holds such a relation to Art, therefore,
as the ancient Grammar School of Plympton. Sir Joshua
never forgot his native town, and to the last kept up
kindly relations. Nor was he by any means without
honour in his own country. His townsmen were proud
of him, and did him what respect lay in their power,
electing him in 1773 their mayor! On this occasion he
gave the town his portrait, painted by himself; and it
hung in the Guildhall until 1832, when the thrifty Cor
poration, to their lasting disgrace, sold it to the Earl of
Egremont for £150.
Of the families connected with Plympton and its neigh
bourhood, the Parkers have already been noted. The
Strodes of Newnham, lately extinct in the male line,
236
History of Devonshire.
were seated at Strode, in Ermington, as early as the
reign of Henry III. Newnham was acquired by
marriage with a coheiress of the Newnhams, temp.
Henry IV. Richard and William Strode, the two most
notable members of the family, have been already
mentioned. Dr. William Strode, poet and divine, died in
1644.
The Woollcombes, who have been seated at Hemerdon
for several generations, in the reign of Elizabeth lived on
the adjoining estate of Challonsleigh. Chaddlewood was
long in the extinct family of Snelling (now in Soltau
Symons), and Beechwood is the seat of Lord Seaton. •
The adjacent parish of Brixton is associated with such
old family names as Brixton, Calmady, Coplestone,
Fortescue, Maynard, Drake, Pollexfen, and Hele; but its
chief claim to notice here is as the residence of that
most worthy member of the wide-spreading family of
Hele—Elize Hele, of Wollaton, who bequeathed in 1635
the manor of Brixton Reigny and all his estates to
charitable uses, and thus became the great school
founder of his native county.'
It is a question whether the Heles really sprung from
Hele near Bradninch, or Hele in Cornwood, where they
can certainly be traced to the reign of Richard II.; but
the latter is probably a younger branch. Cornwood,
noted in ‘ Domesday ’ as possessing three wild horses—
ancestors, no doubt, of the native breed of Dartmoor
ponies-—is connected with several distinguished families.
Chief among these was that of Ralegh, which obtained
Fardell by marriage with the heiress of Newton. At this
ancient mansion, now a farm-house, Wymond Ralegh,
grandfather of Sir Walter Ralegh, lived; and here no
doubt Walter, the father, was born. There is a baseless
tradition that it was also the birthplace of the great Sir
Walter himself. That, however, was at East Hayes.
Plympton.
237
Slade, with its fine hall, once the seat of the family of
that name, has long been the residence of the Spurrells,
and their descendants, the Podes. Blachford is the seat
of Lord Blachford, whose ancestors were sometime lead
ing merchants in Plymouth, and for many years filled
chief places in the Corporation. Their original settlement
in Cornwood was Wisdome, of which place John Rogers
was created baronet in 1698. The present is the first
Lord Blachford, and was the eighth baronet.
Plymstock Manor was part of the possessions of the
Abbey of Tavistock under the Confessor, though not
a portion of the original endowment, and a tradition
attaches to its connection with that house which falls into
place more appropriately in the section on Dartmoor. In
Plymstock parish are the great limestone quarries of
Oreston, out of which the material for the Plymouth
breakwater was hewn, and in which were found the
first bone-caves that formed the subject of scientific
investigation and marked a new departure in geological
discovery. There was much fighting here from time to
time in connection with the siege of Plymouth, and traces
of earthworks are yet visible. Here, too, was the site of
the ancient Keltic settlement at Staddon referred to under
Plymouth. Staddiscombe was the birthplace (1717) of
the learned Nathaniel Foster, translator of Plato. It is
also the reputed birthplace of Walter Britte, an able and
active disciple of Wiclif.
Wembury has already been mentioned as the probable
site of the battle of Wicganbeorge. Its name has been
interpreted to mean the " Viking’s bury ’ or fort; while
a kindred origin has been sought for the name of the
adjoining parish of Revelstoke, the ‘ revel ’ representing
reafere, a ‘rover, robber,’ and reafful=rapacious. More
over the situation of the respective churches close to the
water’s edge seems to have in it something of a com
memorative character. Wembury Church is dedicated
238
History of Devonshire,
to St. Werburga, and thus falls into place as one of the
proofs of Mercian influence in Devon, advanced by Mr.
T. Kerslake. Wembury, which belonged to Plympton
Priory, does not appear in ‘ Domesday,’ though some of
its manors do. The manor of Wembury was acquired in
1592 by Sir John Hele, the well-known serjeant-at-law,
who erected what was regarded as the most magnificent
mansion in the county. It was held for awhile by the
Pollexfens; and early in the present century the house
was pulled down by the then owner, Mr. Lockyer.
Langdon was for several generations till recently the
seat of the Calmadys.
Radford, in Plymstock, has been a seat of the Harris
family for nearly 500 years. Here Ralegh is said to have
been kept in ward on his return in 1618, and here at times
Drake stored much of his treasure.
The last parish to be noted in connection with this
group is Yealmpton. Risdon records a tradition that
AEoelwold had a palace here, and that here also his
‘lieutenant,’ Lipsius, was interred ; and with Risdon the
statement begins and ends. Under the name of Yealmpton
the manor does not appear in " Domesday ’;. but it can
hardly be other than the Elintone entered among the
royal manors next to Plintona, ranking next to it also in
importance, and having one hide held by the clergy of
the ville—described in the Exon book as of St. Mary of
,
Alentona—in alms. The use of E or A for Y in " Domesday"
is usual; and there are many reasons which combine to
make this identification all but certain.
In the churchyard at Yealmpton stands one of the
ancient inscribed stones already noted under Tavistock,
bearing one word only, but that variously read. The
common rendering is torevs, and that is the reading
current in the neighbourhood, where it is looked upon
with some little interest, and traditionally regarded as
commemorating some ancient chieftain or king. The
Plympton.
239
other reading is gorevs, but the point can hardly be
regarded as definitely settled, and it may not be amiss to
note that the ancient village of Tor is within a mile, and
that the name, as it stands, is closely allied to that of the
little river Torry at Plympton some five miles north,
which, moreover, appears in " Domesday ’ as Torix.
Kitley is now the chief seat of the ancient family of
Bastard, which claim descent from the Robert Bastard
who appears in ‘ Domesday’ as the holder of nine manors. ;
They obtained Kitley by marriage with the heiress of the
Pollexfens, Edmund Pollexfen, the last male of the family,
dying in 1710. Since then they have acquired several
adjoining estates, including Bowdon, once the seat of a
family of that name, Coffleet, and Lyneham.
Lyneham, for nearly four centuries, was the seat of the
great Devonshire family of Crocker, referred to in the
already-quoted rhyme, who are now represented by the
Bulteels. In Yealmpton Church is one of the finest
brasses in the county, to Sir John Crocker of Lyneham,
Cupbearer to Edward IV.
Windsor here was the seat of Richard Fortescue, from
whom, according to Sir W. Pole, are descended the
Fortescues of the east of England. Pitton was the
residence of the North Devon Woollcombes before their
removal to Ashbury.
Boringdon Hall
is a 16th-century Grade I listed manor house, which is now a 5 star hotel with flagship Gaia spa - and MICHELIN starred Àclèaf restaurant in the parish of Colebrook, about two miles north of Plympton, Devon.
Description
The oldest parts of the present house were said by John Britton (1771–1857) to have been built about the middle of the 14th century. Britton believed the main entrance porch, consisting of a semicircular arch with Norman-style cable mouldings, to be of ancient date, brought from some neighbouring church, or even Plympton Castle. Due to subsequent alterations the building is difficult to date accurately, and Nikolaus Pevsner states it to be "irritating for the historian" as it incorporates a multitude of imported period features and materials, giving it "a superficially convincing instant patina".
The house was described by Polwhele in the 18th century as "ruinous". In about 1800 the whole range east of the entrance porch was demolished, and by 1980 only the walls were standing. In 1986 the restoration of the building began on completion of which it has been used as a hotel.
The double-height great hall survives largely intact, and is situated to the left from the now-lost screens passage on entering the porch. Two double-height windows are situated on the south side of the Hall, whilst on the north side is the large granite fireplace, on the lintel of which is carved the arms of Parker, and above which on the chimney breast is a very large ornamental plaster depiction of the royal coat of arms ofKing Charles I(1625–1649), dated to 1640. On either side of the arms are larger-than-lifesize female figures, to the viewer's left, Peace, and to the right the figure of Plenty, holding acornucopia.
Many of the door-frames are of granite, yet are not in their original positions, for example that now forming the entrance to the great hall from the screens passage, which has been removed, was formerly in the south-east room, where it had been used as a fireplace. The ornate plaster ceiling of the great hall is said by Pevsner to be a modernpastiche, albeit well-executed. At each end of the hall is a gallery.
Boringdon Arch, a Roman-style triumphal arch designed byRobert Adam, was built in 1783 on the way connecting Boringdon Hall toSaltram Houseowned by the same family. It is located about 1 mile west of Boringdon Hall at the entrance to Boringdon Park Golf Club in Plymbridge Road. It is grade IIlisted, and was offered for sale in 2014, but no buyers were found. It is in a state of disrepair, and is on theEnglish Heritage at Risk Register.[4][5]
History
In about 956 the SaxonKing Edgar(959–75) granted the royal manors of Boringdon and Wembury toPlympton Prioryof St Peter. Following theDissolution of the MonasteriesKing Henry VIII granted Boringdon toThomas Wriothesley, 1st Earl of Southampton. In 1549 Wriothesley sold the manor to Richard Mayhew (or "Mayhowe" etc.), gentleman, ofTavistock, Devon. In 1582 Richard Mayhew's granddaughter Frances Mayhew, daughter and heiress of Jeronemy Mayhew, became the wife of John Parker (1563–1610) ofNorth Moltonin North Devon.[6]
Boringdon remained in the ownership of the Parker family, later Barons Boringdon andEarls of Morley, until the 20th century. John Parker and his wife the Mayhew heiress completed their re-modelling of the house in 1587. The family expanded the nearby village of Colebrooke to house their estate workers. During theCivil Warthe Parkers remained loyal to the King, andCromwell's soldiers demolished the whole part of the house to the east of the entrance porch and screens passage, rebuilt in the 20th century. It is possible that this is the house in which Charles I himself stayed on 11 November 1642, when he is recorded as 'being at Colebrook'.[7]In 1712 the Parkers acquired the nearby manor of Saltram on which they builtSaltram House, described by Pevsner as "the most impressive house in Devon", which became their principal residence. Boringdon thus began its period of decline, and was serving as a farm-house in the 1920s, although still owned by the Parker family.
In 1951 the Parkers incurred a heavy liability to death duties following the death ofEdmund Robert Parker, 4th Earl of Morley(1877–1951) and in 1957 gave Saltram, with all its contents and 291 acres, to theNational Trustin lieu of tax.
Boringdon Hall was bought byPatrick Cotter, the7th Baronet of Rockforest, who lived there in the 1960s.[8][9]Boringdon was later sold to Paul Chapman who converted it into a hotel. It suffered a major fire in March 1989.
In January 2011 the property was offered for sale for £3 million. It consisted of a 41 bedroomhotel, with 4 banqueting suites and 7 acres of land. It was bought by the Nettleton Collection of hotels. As of 2016 it is the leading hotel in the area with a flagship Gaia spa -Gaia spaandMICHELIN starred restaurant Àclèaf
References
Formerly known as Boringdon House
"BORINGDON HOUSE, Non Civil Parish - 1330575 | Historic England".historicengland.org.uk. Retrieved3 May2024.
Pevsner, p.190Plym Valley Connections Heritage Lottery Fund Project(PDF).Plymouth City Council(Report). August 2013. p. 50. Retrieved5 March2020.
Historic England."Details from listed building database (1386330)".National Heritage List for England. Retrieved5 March2020.
Genealogical details of Parker family from National Trust guidebook "Saltram, Devon", 2005, p.65
The two houses Petition for Treaty presented to the king at Colebrook, Nov. 11. 1642.
"Current Irish Baronetcies". Retrieved3 May2024.
Sources
Wikimedia Commons has media related toBoringdon Hall.
Pevsner, Nikolaus & Cherry, Bridget, The Buildings of England: Devon, London, 1991, Boringdon, pp. 189–90
Britton, John. Architectural Antiquities of Great Britain, vol.2, 1809, p.111
Boringdon Hall History, information leaflet published by present hotel.
An enclosed place— literally a fenced or hedged area
A defended homestead or settlement— often with a palisade
A farmstead that could grow into a village or manor
A Saxon foundation, or
A Saxon renamingof an older site they took over.